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Antique and Vintage Fashion and Textiles, Tuesday February 7th at 10.30am

Our first auction of 2012 features some interesting collections. We present the idiosyncratic menswear collection, (mainly punk and New Romantic clothing) from David Ireland who left New York to settle in Britain in the early 1980s, where he immersed himself into the London club scene and fashion world, working closely with Vivienne Westwood (lots 161 to 179). For those who love Chanel and YSL see lots 202 to 226 for from the wardrobe of one of Britain's leading models in the 1950s, the late Adele de Havilland. Bronwen Nolan, who set up the specialist costume hire company "The Business" in 1989, has decided to retire and we present a selection of her stock including garments worn by Meryl Streep in 'The Iron Lady', Julie Walter's costume as Mrs Weasley in the first Harry Potter film, masses of vintage clothing mainly from the 1960s-70s and a large quantity of costume jewellery (lots 251 to 356). For those of you who loved the Yuki archive in our October auction - you will be pleased to see the final and concluding part of the personal of archive of Gnyuki Torimaru, better known as the designer Yuki. Yuki rose to fame in the 1970s with his classically elegant draped jersey evening gowns and his creations regularly featured in Vogue in the 1970s and 80s often modelled by Jerry Hall or Marie Helvin (lots 8 to 27).
Left: David Ireland outside 'World's End'

Venue: Unit C21, (second floor) 40 Martell Road, West Dulwich, London, SE21 8EN
Viewing: Sunday 5th February 12-4pm and Monday 6th February 9-5pm. THERE IS NO VIEWING ON THE MORNING OF THE SALE
Session 1 - 10.30am, lots 1-200
Session 2 - 1.30pm, lots 201 to end of the sale
   
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Sale Results for February 07th, 2012
 
Lot Item Description Hammer Price Lot Picture
 
1 Pauline Trigère, late 1950s-1960s, all labelled, comprising superb black and oatmeal broadcloth coat with massive fichu collar, single button to fasten; another of grey, blue and white striped tweed with diagonal fastening and matching scarf, both chests, 92cm, 36in; and a steel-grey wool crepe cape with sequined buckle to the collar (3) £360 
2 A Madame Grès diagonally striped wool day suit, late 60s-early 70s, labelled, the jacket with two buttons to fasten, A-line skirt; together with two Grès summer dresses, 1970s, both labelled and with model tapes, one of navy and white floral printed silk foulard, the other of floral crepe de chine, both with matching skirts, busts approx 86cm (6) £650 
3 A Courrèges black organza and satin ruffled dress, 1980s, labelled; together with a Miss Dior black velvet empire line gown adorned with large plastic discs, mid 1960s, bust approx 82cm, 32in (2) £60 
4 A group of Pauline Trigère daywear and a Lachasse ensemble, late 1950s-1960s (qty) £110 
5 A group of plated silver bags, comprising: small purse with chain link handle, 1860s; two framed chainmail bags, 1915-20; and a black silk bag, Dutch or German, circa 1900, the embossed plated mounts with image of country life, (4) £90 
6 An infant's false quilted linen cap, circa 1710, densely worked in minute yellow running stitches with hearts to each side, scallops and foliage, 20cm, 8in long £0 
7 Black lace, comprising: a Chantilly bobbin lace shawl or mantilla, a dress flounce of machine Chantilly approx 4.5m long; a Spanish black lace stole; a black lace `visite' c.1870 and an embroidered tulle skirt panel (4) £300 
8 A Yuki striped brown cotton seersucker day ensemble, Spring-Summer, 1982, Yuki London label, the voluminous top with wide furisode sleeve openings, shirred waistband with cummerbund like sash and short ra-ra skirt, (2) This soft, understated ensemble was designed for the Japanese market. Exhibited: Victoria & Albert Museum`Yuki 20 Years' exhibition 1992 and illustrated in the accompanying catalogue p.16 Provenace: the personal archive of Yuki £200 
9 A Yuki brown striped seersucker, day ensemble, Spring-Summer, 1982, the bodice with wide furisode sleeves, the collar and sleeve edged in beige crepe, shirred, elasticated waist, with separate waist sash, worn over long, full skirt; together with an ivory pique bolero jacket, Autumn-Winter, 1982, with foldover-cut away front panels, woven Yuki London label (4) This soft, understated ensemble was designed for the Japanese market. Exhibited: Victoria & Albert Museum`Yuki 20 Years' exhibition 1992 and illustrated in the accompanying catalogue p.17 Provenance: the personal archive of Yuki £0 
10 A Yuki primrose polyester jersey evening ensemble, Spring-Summer, 1983, printed Yuki London label, comprising: draped bodice with asymmetric neckline edged in top-stiched satin, matching ankle length skirt with triangular top-stitched waistband, bust approx 86-92cm, 34-36in, waist 66cm, 26in (2) Provenance: the personal archive of Yuki £0 
11 Two Yuki evening gowns, Autumn-Winter, 1985, the first of white jersey with rhinestone studded high collar, cuffs and front panels, low-cut open back; the other of pleated satin with black sequined V to centre bodice, pleated caplet-like wings converging at centre waist roundel, columnar pleated skirt, busts approx 92cm, 36in (2) Provenance: the personal archive of Yuki £600 
12 Yuki summerwear, Spring-Summer 1986, five ensembles comprising: printed linen dress and matching halter-neck bodice; cream cotton jersey asymmetric bodice and skirt; white linen summer dress with pleated hem; blue and grey cloque cotton dress with godets to hem and leather belt, average bust 81-86cm, 32-34in, (qty) Provenance: the personal archive of Yuki £200 
13 Four black Yuki cocktail dresses, Autumn-Winter, 1987, Yuki London labelled, comprising three pleated black satin with beading and short, kimono-like sleeves, one with royal blue lining; and a crepe example with satin facings, busts approx 86cm, 34in, (4) Provenance: the personal archive of Yuki £150 
14 A Yuki evening gown, Autumn-Winter 1987, unlabelled, of pleated black satin with bugle beaded collar and waistband, black/green pleated taffeta ruffle to bust, with original shop tag, bust 81cm, 32in; together with a black and orange pleated satin cocktail dress, with low back, beaded panel to front bodice, Yuki London label, (2) Provenance: the personal archive of Yuki £220 
15 A Yuki taupe jersey evening gown, Autumn-Winter 1987, unlabelled, with draped bodice and skirt, top-stitch detail to waistband and neckline, with original shop tag showing retail price of £665, bust 86cm, 34in Provenance: the personal archive of Yuki £650 
16 A Yuki evening gown, Autumn-Winter 1987, Yuki London label, of pleated black satin with asymmetric neckline, edged in bugle beads, black/green pleated taffeta ruffle to bust, bust 86cm, 34in; together with a black and royal blue pleated satin cocktail dress, with low back, beaded panel to front of bodice, (2) Provenance: the personal archive of Yuki £180 
17 A Yuki ivory pleated evening gown, Spring-Summer, 1988, Gnyuki Torimaru label, with cape-like panel from shoulders, low V back, over columnar skirt, bust approx 86cm, 34in; together with a watermelon red organza evening gown, also Spring-Summer 1988, Yuki London label, with pleated bodice, (2) Provenance: the personal archive of Yuki £1000 
18 A Yuki beige and brown wool waistcoat, Autumn-Winter, 1972, unlabelled, with flounced collar, chest 86cm, 34in  £80 
19 A group of pleated Yuki evening wear, three ensembles comprising gold silk evening coat/dress, unlabelled, Spring-Summer 1988; white satin bodice with asymmetric cowl neckline, Gnyuki Torimaru label, Spring-Summer 1991, a black column dress, Gnyuki Torimaru label, 1998, and a white crepe columnar cowl dress, unlabelled, 1998; together with original Yuki sketch for similar dress (5) Provenance: the personal archive of Yuki £1500 
20 A group of Yuki ivory and white pleated separates, mostly 1980s, comprising: two bodices in satin and chiffon with wide, pointed sleeves, pleats converging to point at waist, unlabelled; ivory satin halter bodysuit, 1991; chiffon cape and skirt, all Gnyuki Torimaru labelled, (5) Provenance: the personal archive of Yuki £700 
21 A group of Yuki summery evening wear, mostly Gnyuki Torimaru labelled, in shades of grey and ivory, comprising knitted cream silk column skirt and halter-neck bodice, 1993; pale grey gauze dress with handkerchief hem; dove-grey silk wrap-over dress, Spring-Summer 1991; and beige skirt and bodice with pointed panels to shoulders, 1995, (5) Provenance: the personal archive of Yuki £500 
22 A group of Yuki cocktail and evening wear, 1990s, Gnyuki Torimaru labelled, including royal blue satin slip-dress; shot pink/gold organza dress with long train; petrol blue draped silk bodysuit and matching trousers; a striped catsuit and tie skirt and others, (9) Provenance: the personal archive of Yuki £280 
23 A group of Yuki summerwear, 1990s, Gnyuki Torimaru labelled, seven ensembles including white pique cotton cropped jacket and yellow minidress; white jersey full-length dress and chiffon jacket, 1995; lime green wrap-over loose jacket, 1995; black and silver brocade cropped jacket, with tie front, 1992, with original retail price tage £565, and others, (11) Provenance: the personal archive of Yuki £650 
24 A group of 1980s and 90s Yuki ensembles, Gnyuki Torimaru labelled, approx six, including fluorescent green silk skirt and matching bodice; white cotton piqué cropped jacket with large black buttons; striped silk catsuit; white cotton piqué bodice with yellow lycra back and ties to front, 1992, with original retail price tage of £540, (11) Provenance: the personal archive of Yuki £950 
25 A group of colourful Yuki summerwear, 1990s, Gnyuki Torimaru labelled, six ensembles, including bright yellow jacquard weave jacket, with white lycra mini dress; pink silk chiffon halter top, skirt and stole, 1998; black wool and cream jersey mini dress, 1998, and others, (12) £460 
26 A striking Yuki black and white herringbone weave djellabah, Autumn-Winter, 1976, of black and white striped wool, the reverse in black twill, with hood, voluminous bat-wing sleeves with narrow cuff-slits, draped back with central opening forming a pleat £460 
27 A Yuki scarlet cut velvet and quilted satin evening coat, probably circa 1983, Yuki couture labelled, with large, quilted shawl collar, trained hem; together with a velour jumpsuit, Autumn/Winter 1990, unlabelled, (2) £400 
28 Two ivory chiffon blouses, 1930s, together with a voided velvet black and scarlet stole, 1920s; a Spanish embroidered stole c.1930; a large group of hankies, lace collars, belts, gloves, mainly 1930s and a 1950s swimsuit (qty) £240 
29 A large group of bags and purses, mainly 1920s-30s, approx 23 including good beaded example with moulded celluloid cat and mice clasp and chain handle; a leather bag with silver mounts, London 1902; an elaborate chainmail example with rococo- style closure and waist hook; a black suede example with art deco emerald rhinestone and marcasite clasp; painted chainmail example, velvet muff bag and others (qty) £420 
30 A group of cosmetics and vanity cases, 1930s-50s, including a Super Flapjack blue enamelled art-deco style compact with lipstick, (suitable for Chanel, Coty refills); un-used Leichner Flapjack cosmetics; combs, powder puffs; an Evans gilt metal vanity purse and others (qty) £0 
31 A Mr Fish royal blue velvet man's jacket, early 1970s, with orange Clifford St label, size 38, double-breasted with grey nacre buttons, lined in blue and white printed foulard silk, chest 97cm, 38in £340 
32 A Claude Montana deep red wool circle jacket, 1980s, labelelled, zip fastened with deep funnel shaped collar, narrow sleeves, chest approx 92cm, 36in; together with a strange pale green velvet dress with integral gloves and stencilled silver decorations, (2) £300 
33 An embroidered brown wool walking suit, circa 1915, with silk embroidered front and edging panels to the jacket and to the hem of the skirt, lined in blue satin, chest 86cm, 34in, waist 66cm, 26in, (2) £180 
34 An ivory damask ball/bridal gown, circa 1895, the bodice with puffed upper sleeves adorned with pink satin ribbons, matching skirt with chevron and ellipse repeats, bust approx 82cm, 32in, waist 56cm, 22in; together with an 1860s ball gown with heavily altered skirt (4) £650 
35 Three embroidered black silk shawls, Cantonese, 1920s-30s, worked with primrose, pink and polychrome silk blossom, average size 91cm, 36in square (3) £140 
36 Two embroidered ivory silk shawls, Cantonese 1900-1930, the first self-coloured with overall embroidered blooms; the other with polychrome peonies, 122cm, 48in square; 110cm, 43in square (2) £140 
37 A good John Bates at Jean Varon gold jersey 'cobweb' dress, 1973, unlabelled, the embroidered tulle back-panel applied with beaded and sequined spiders and scrolls, tie belt, domed glass buttons, bust 86cm, 34in, waist 56cm, 22in; together an image from British Vogue, September 1973 showing the model in black, (2) £200 
38 A man's psychedlic paper hippy top, German, 1960s, printed in fluorescent pink and green with `Emma Peel, Raquel Welch, Brigitte Bardot, Sandy Shaw, I Like Girls, Schlafen sie auch so Unrhig? and others, chest 127cm, 50in; together with a `Paper Doll Fashion' pink and white flower power dress in original packaging, unopened, adult size 9-12; and a scarlet and white abstract print slubbed silk mini dress (3) Provenance: The hippy top was purchased from Tommy Roberts of 'Mr Freedom' fame in the 1990s £260 
39 A Poster Dresses Ltd. London `Eye' paper dress, 1960s, Made in the USA by by Nodina Products Corporation, un-opened in original packaging, `1st Edition', `Throw it away? Never! When you're finally tired of wearing it why not ...Cut open all of the seams and hang it on your wall as a poster...' £600 
40 A Biba poster, circa 1974, 48 by 71cm in silvered frame £0 
41 A John Stephen red damask satin double breasted jacket, late 1960s, with Carnaby Street label, cut short and narrow with sharp lapels, in a floral upholstery fabric, chest 107cm, 42in John Stephen was hailed as the `King of Carnaby Street'. He was not a trained designer but came to fashion through retail - at which he was extremely successful. He dressed well, drove a Rolls Royce and epitomised cool, swinging London. He identified and catered to the young male market emerging in the late 50s and early 60s who had disposable income to spend. In 1967 he said 'Carnaby is my creation, I feel about it the same way Michelangelo felt about the beautiful statues he created.' £1100 
42 An Ossie Clark for Radley lavender-blue moss crepe evening gown, early 1970s, labelled, with wide, curved collar, button-fronted, full sleeves, bust approx 92-97cm, 36-38in £160 
43 Eveningwear, 1930s-early 40s, comprising; lilac rayon faille gown embroidered with silver birds; floral printed satin gown; purple velvet gown and black velvet evening coat, average sizes 86-93cm, 34-36in (4) £150 
44 A Philipe Jullian for Zika Ascher printed silk scarf, 1940s, screen printed in five colours with a pretty garden square surrounded by elegant houses, approx 89cm, 35in square £150 
45 A Hussein Chalayan orange cotton dress, 1990s, labelled, with irregular conical darts to the bodice and fan pleats to the skirt, bust 86cm, 34in; together with a Chalayan pin-striped 'blue-print' paper dress, bust 86cm, 34in (2) £450 
46 A Balenciaga couture purple cloqué silk cocktail dress, early 1960s, Paris labelled and numbered 85207, with open back panel on one side, slotted tie belt, bust 86cm, 34in £200 
47 An Emilio Pucci printed velvet maxi dress, late 1960s, labelled and size 10, of empire line, the black ground with diagonal bands of trailing blooms, bust 86cm, 34in, £200 
48 A Christian Dior boutique, Paris cocktail dress, late 1950s, labelled 1543005, of black satin with printed velvet blooms in shades of green, bust 92cm, 36in, waist 71cm, 28in £1000 
49 A Yohji Yamamoto Pour Homme ivory velvet waistcoat, Autumn-Winter, 2003-2004, labelled and size 3, with scarf panels which ruche and gather to form a ruffle, backed in white leather, chest 86cm, 34in £380 
50 A Yohji Yamamoto steel grey mohair `Visite' jacket, 1980s, labelled and size S, with curved capelet sleeves open at the underarms, tabbed and bustled rear hem, lined in wide nylon mesh, bust approx 86cm, 34in; together with a Yamamoto skirt, un-labelled, Spring-Summer 2004, of slubbed silk with lined and interlined peplum adorned with large tacking stitches, waist 66cm, 26in (2) £600 
51 A Yohji Yamamoto `Ys' dress/jacket ensemble, 2003-4, labelled and size 3, the upper wool gabardine jacket section with tie-dyed hem, detachable red lace skirt which can also be worn as a shawl, bust 86-93cm, 34-36in £200 
52 A Yohji Yamamoto navy wool gabardine suit, Autumn-Winter 2004-5, labelled and size 1, the jacket with swallow-tail tabs to front and back waist, ruched pocket adorned with string bows; matching skirt, bust 86cm, 34in, waist 61cm, 24in (2) £300 
53 An Ossie Clark/Celia Birtwell for Radley printed maroccain dress, circa 1973, labelled and size 36, with bouquet and heart repeats on a green ground, tie belt, bias-cut skirt, bust 86cm, 34in, (2) £300 
54 Two Hermès shoppers, one grey, the other brown with canvas handles, both 30cm, 12in wide; together with a pair of Hermès gilt metal and black leather ear-clips, (4) £300 
55 A Gucci black suede handbag, late 1960s, stamped Gucci inside, with large gilt GG symbol to front clasp, leather trim and shoulder strap, 28cm, 11in wide £100 
56 A group of mainly 1930s evening wear, six ensembles including lace and satin gowns (6) £400 
57 A Balenciaga couture black cloqué satin cocktail ensemble, 1961, Balenciaga Paris labelled and numbered 80913 and 80924, comprising: strapless cocktail dress with wired grosgrain integral corset, curved bodice front with complex drapes and folds, with matching stole and loose jacket with no fastenings, dress bust 86-92cm, 34-36in, waist 69cm, 27in, (3) £1100 
58 A group of mainly Yves Saint Laurent suits and jackets, six ensembles including gold brocatelle bodice and jacket; metallic green skirt suit; Valentino jacket with lattice sleeves and Brioni striped jacket and wide-legged trousers, chests 86-96cm, 34-38in (qty) £220 
59 An embroidered kashmir visite, 1870s, of pale grey pashmina embroidered in black silks with paisley motifs, lined in purple satin £200 
60 A fine Alice Pollock bias cut ivory ensemble, early 1970s, printed black on white satin label, the dress of moss crepe with curved faggotted seams and undulating hem; the jacket/blouse of silk crepe with similarly worked seams, full sleeves with ties to cuffs, satin piping and neck ties, buttoned waist, bust 92cm, 36in (2) £220