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Current Sale
195, Isabella Blow's Alexander McQueen gown
195, Isabella Blow's Alexander McQueen gown
 20, A rare pair of Diana Slip fetish boots
20, A rare pair of Diana Slip fetish boots
 87, A Chanel couture satin cocktail dress, 1956
87, A Chanel couture satin cocktail dress, 1956

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Summertime...and the vintage is pretty...

Passion for Fashion, Tuesday June 25th at 2pm

Should you desire jazz age flapper dresses, dreamy taffeta ball gowns or cutting edge fashion by the greatest designers of the 20th century, then no look no further – we have it!

Our sale on June 25th includes Hermes Birkin and Kelly bags in myriad colours and skins as well as wearable and historically important fashion from the turn of the 20th century to the present day.

From the belle époque we have creations by Redfern, Pingat and Raudnitz. From the 1920s-30s we have couture by Fortuny, Schiaparelli, Chanel, Lanvin and Vionnet.  The 40s -60s are represented by Madame Gres, Christian Dior, Jacques Fath, Charles James, Balenciaga, Balmain, Saint Laurent and Valentino.

One of the most interesting collections is a group of clothes and accessories that originally belonged to the great doyenne of vintage fashion – Diana Vreeland.  Her smart navy YSL pea-coat bears the discreet ribbon of the Legion d’Honneur on the collar – an honour bestowed upon by the French State for her services to fashion, something she was immensely proud of. Also by Saint Laurent is a couture be-jewelled velvet evening ensemble specially commissioned for her to wear at the Metropolitan Museum’s ‘Royal India’ exhibition opening in 1985. Cecil Beaton painted Vreeland with her favourite art-deco cigarette holder which is included in the sale as is the remains of the film-director style chair she used in her office at the Met and which bears her DV signature in red.

From 1985 we have a Kansai Yamamoto jacket made for David Bowie which is signed by the performer and is being sold in aid of the Open Nest charity which gives respite and support to foster carers and  adoptive parents.

Alexander McQueen produced eminently wearable as well as extreme creations during his brief tenure at Maison Givenchy and these are well represented in the sale. A 1998 beaded flapper style dress is a fusion of east/west with the cascading fringes forming Hokusai waves. Another ensemble comprises a rich wine brocaded satin kimono worn over a feathered crepe jump suit from 1997. The final lot in the sale is historically the most important of the McQueen pieces.  It is a heavily beaded cocktail dress he made especially for his close friend and collaborator the late Isabella Blow. The design is a variation from his Eshu collection of Autumn/Winter 2000-200, which was inspired by the ancient Yoruba people of Benin and Nigeria, Eshu being both a goddess and messenger of death. The gown combines tribal elements of beadwork and animal hair with a high fashion twist. Acid green/yellow beads form textured rivulets which culminate in a broad dark brown horse hair fringe at the hem. Issie insisted that the dress be made strapless for her, which albeit flattering, made it rather impractical to wear as the weight of the beads produces a strong gravitational pull and she later gave the dress to her assistant. Blow was credited with ‘discovering’ McQueen at his St Martin’s graduate show (she famously bought the entire collection for £5000) and went on to become a close friend and ardent supporter of his work and career. This exquisite and important McQueen gown is a rarity (the bulk of her wardrobe having been acquired after her death by her close friend  Daphne Guinness) combining  both the genius of McQueen with the provenance of  Isabella Blow - one of the most influential fashion figures of the 20th century.

All the lots are listed below with images. A more traditional-style virtual catalogue which features all the main highlights of the sale is available to view by clicking on this link: http://bit.ly/15ROLvZ

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

To view a printable version of the catalogue, please click here.

Venue: 249-253 Long Lane, Bermondsey, London, SE1 4PR

Viewing :
Sunday 23rd June, 12-5pm
Monday 24th June, 9-5.30pm
Tuesday 25th June, 9-11am
  Search Sale By:     
 

Sale June 25th, 2013  
 
Lot Item Description Low Est High Est
 
1
 An Hermès brown crocodile handbag, late 1960s, crocodylus porosus, stamped in gold to the interior Hermès, Paris, with circular gilt ring clasp, shoulder strap, lined in tan leather, 26cm, 10 1/4in long Please note there are export restrictions on this lot outside the EU £700 £1000
2
 An Hermès tan calf leather Birkin, 1996, stamped and engraved with maker's name, blind stamp A, with gilt hardware, padlock and two keys, 35cm, 13 1/2in long £1500 £2000
3
 A Loewe green lizard bag, late 1960s, maker's name stamped to the interior, with large silvered metal mounts to the adjustable shoulder strap, lifter clasp, 19cm, 7 1/2in long Please note that this lot cannot be exported outside the EU. £300 £500
4
 An Hermès vert foncé togo leather Birkin bag, 1998, blind stamp B, with gold plated hardware, keyfob and padlock, 35cm, 13 3/4in £5000 £8000
5
 An Hermès wine pigskin Kelly bag, 1985, blind stamp O, with gilt hardware, fob, 40cm, 15 3/4in long £1500 £2000
6
 An Hermès black pigskin Kelly bag, 1992, blind stamp V, and marked in gold to the interior 'Hermès Paris, Made in France' and signed to the gilt closure tabs, with broad webbing shoulder strap, 41cm, 16in long £700 £1000
7
 An Hermès black ostrich Kelly bag, circa 1970, stamped to the interior 'Hermès Paris, Made in France' and signed to the gilt closure tabs, with key fob, leather covered padlock and detachable shoulder strap, 36cm, 14in long £2000 £3000
8
 An Hermès white whaleskin Kelly bag, late 1960s, delphinapterus leucas, signed to the gilt closure tabs, with key fob and padlock,36cm, 14in long Please note there are export restrictions on this lot outside the EU £400 £600
9
 An Hermès caramel lizard Kelly bag, 1996, blind stamp Z, varanus niloticus, with gilt hardware, optional shoulder strap, matching padlock and fob, 33cm, 13in long Please note there are export restrictions on this lot outside the EU £4000 £6000
10
 An Hermès black togo leather Birkin bag, 1996, blind stamp Z, with gold plated hardware, keyfob and padlock, 40cm, 15 3/4in £5000 £9000
11
 An Hermès bleu jean clemence leather Birkin bag, 2000, blind stamp D, with silver palladium hardware, keyfob and padlock, 40cm, 16in £5000 £7000
12
 An Hermès gris tourterelle clemence leather haut à courroies overnight bag, 2000, blind stamp D, with silver palladium hardware, keyfob and padlock, 50cm, 19 1/2in £6000 £9000
13
 A fine Hermès orange crocodile Kelly bag, 1995, crocodylus porosus, blind stamp Y, with gilt hardware, matching leather covered padlock, fob with keys, and alternative gilt padlock with keys, 29cm, 11 1/2in long Please note there are export restrictions on this lot outside the EU £10000 £15000
14
 An Hermès brown crocodile Kelly bag, 1974, crocodylus porosus, blind stamp D, with gilt hardware, fob and leather covered padlock, shoulder strap, 29cm, 11 1/2in long Please note there are export restrictions on this lot outside the EU £5000 £8000
15
 An Hermès brown leather Birkin bag, 1999, blind stamp C, with gold plated hardware, keyfob and padlock, 35cm, 13 3/4in £4000 £5000
16
 An Hermès black box calf leather Birkin, 1999, blind stamp C, with silver palladium hardware, padlock and keyfob, 35cm, 13 3/4in £4000 £6000
17
 A fine printed leather reticule, French, early 19th century, with finely detailed engraved print to one side of a rotund, un-fashionable gentleman being scolded by his wife 'a la maison' to one side and with a comely young wench to the other 'au cabaret', with cord draw-string, 14cm, 5 1/2in high £600 £800
18
 An embroidered satin undress cap, probably French, early 18th century, embroidered in pastel silks and gilt threads with baskets of blooms, scrolling carnations, with gold bobbin lace edging to the up-turned flap, topped with a gilt tassel, 16cm, 6in high £800 £1200
19
 A pair of yellow brocaded satin shoes, 1730s, woven with lace patterns accented in pink and green, with green ribbon bindings, up-turned curved toes, 22cm, 8 1/2in long (2) £1500 £2000
20
 A fine and rare pair of Diana Slip fetish boots, French, circa 1930, with gold embossed leather maker's label to the interior, '9 Rue Richepanse, Paris-Madeleine', fine red leather piping to the scalloped tops, heel tip and outlining the toe section on the upper, steep heel, brass eyelet loops with laces to fasten from sole to thigh, 23cm, 9in long approx UK size 4-5 (2) See 'Schuhe' Saskia Durian-Ress pp 281-283 for calf to knee length fetish boots. The height of the Diana Slip boots and the heel-toe proximity means that walking in them would have been almost impossible. They are an extremely fine example of this oeuvre. Diana Slip was a specialist lingerie and erotica company established in Paris in the 1930s by Leo Vidal. They specialised in fetish clothes, saucy postcards and literature and everything madame or monsieur might require for the boudoir, so to speak. He employed some of the leading photographers of the day such as Brassai, Jean Moral and Roger Schall, all of whom need the work during the depression. The company went into liquidation at the end of World War II. £1000 £1500
21
 Two pairs of women's glam-rock style platform boots, 1970s, in red, silver and blue glitter fabric with zip fasteners; and silver glitter with red stars with front laces, size 6 UK (4) £400 £600
22
 Two pairs of Mondaine/Mondial 'Mirages' heel-less shoes, 1959, comprising: black suede pair, also with Dolcis Studio labels, size 4; and gold leather with glass beaded rosettes, size 6 (4) £300 £500
23
 Two pairs of black patent leather fetish shoes, probably 1930s, comprising: pair with vertiginous 20cm heels, possibly for wear by a man, with piped white leather rands, faint imprint on soles 'Made in Belgium', UK size approx 8-9; the other with punched leather trim to upper edges, white leather inlay to heel tip, approx UK size 5-6 (4) £500 £800
24
 A pair of leather postillion boots, probably French, first half 18th century, of heavy, dark-brown leather, the rigid legs banded with iron, the upper edged padded with horse-hair, with domed, rounded toe, multi-layered leather sole and heel, the shaped spur-leathers chased with fleurs de lys, 59cm, 27in high (2) £2000 £3000
25
 A collection of gloves, originally belonging to the Duchess of Windsor, French, 1950s-60s, seven pairs, mainly of soft kid leather or suede from above wrist length - elbow length in shades of grey, beige and brown and a pair of long green crêpe silk evening gloves (14) Provenance: ex lot 2162, Sotheby's New York, Duke and Duchess of Windsor auction, February 1998. £450 £600
25A
 A Pierre Cardin enamelled pendant, late 1960s, signed on the reverse, of gilt metal with midnight blue centre, with three central rotating ellipses studded with rhinestones and enamelled green to the reverse, on gilt chain, the pendant 8cm, 4in high £400 £600
26
 A pair of Courrèges white plastic sunglasses, 1964, signed along the arms, the solid lenses with horizontal slits, 15cm, 6in long £300 £500
27
 A Pierre Cardin enamelled metal pendant, late 1960s, signed to the reverse, in shades of blue with rhinestone studded central medallion, on gilt rope-twist choker chain, 9cm, 3 1/2in long, in original case (2) £400 £600
28
 A fine Chanel filigree necklace, probably Goosens, 1960s, signed 'Chanel' to the clasp, the gilt metal plaques inset with carnelian coloured stones, interspersed with pearls, brilliants cabochon green stones, and with large droplet pearl pendant, 49cm, 19in diam £600 £1000
29
 A rare green and yellow knitted silk woman's jacket, probably Italian, mid 17th century, the front and back panels with gold thread and yellow silk scrolling foliage and blossom, with textured chequered borders £1200 £1800
30
 A quilted ivory satin petticoat, second half 18th century, with large-scale design of undulating fern fronds and sprouting blooms, lined in ivory wool, with drawstring band forming the waist, 85cm, 33 1/2in £450 £600
31
 An embroidered ivory satin waistcoat worked with horse-race scenes, circa 1790, of short, boxy shape embroidered in fine chain stitch with dog-roses, cornflowers, with horses jumping hurdles below each pocket, with inked inscription to the rear linen backing 'EA to WLA', and also 'From SJK to the Lord Russell, March 30th, 1819' £600 £1000
32
 A gentleman's embroidered satin waistcoat, circa 1770-80, worked to the borders with mauve and pale blue cornflowers, sprigged, embroidered ground £300 £500
33
 A striped homespun wool 'revolutionary' skirt, French, late 18th century, of kelim style weave in broad bands of red, white, blue and black, with remains of pink silk binding to the waistband £800 £1200
34
 An ivory silk faille bridal gown, circa 1871, the bodice and waistband of skirt applied with 'Grand Magasins de la Paix' stamped labels, the bodice with bell-shaped sleeves, jacket-like bodice with curved basque, adorned with Brussels lace and ivory cord passementerie; the apron-type overskirt similarly adorned, over plain faille trained skirt with integral ruched gathers to the rear in the area to take a bustle, bust 76cm, 30in, waist 51cm, 20in (3) £450 £600
35
 A rare Emile Pingat brown velvet 'visite' capelet, circa 1890, woven beige label '30 Rue Louis le Grand, 30 Paris', edged with golden silk cord and cotton bobbin lace, the pelerine-like front panels and hem edged in fringes of golden seed-beads, lined in brown satin, fastened by hooks and eyes £400 £600
36
 A rare Ernest Raudnitz chiné 18th century inspired taffeta ball gown, circa 1893, stamped in gold to the waist-stay 'Ernest Raudnitz, 23 Rue Louis le Grand, Paris', the separate bodice with wide square neckline, ruffled, pleated sleeves, pink chiffon edging and frills, and plastron, adorned with absinthe-green silk ribbons and a silk rosebud, the interior with baleen boning, ivory taffeta lining; the matching skirt with pink chiffon insertion to centre front edged with ruffles of taffeta and posy of silk flowers and ribbons, bust 92cm, 36in, waist 66cm, 26in (2) £1200 £1500
37
 A Redfern primrose yellow melton wool coat, circa 1890, the black silk lining bearing the remains of a printed gold 'Redfern 242 Rue de Rivoli' label, with integral capelet, couched gold thread embroidered black faille collar, edged in black ostrich plumes, fastened to the front by hooks and eyes, chest 81cm, 32in £600 £800
38
 A rare Redfern navy embossed-velvet and satin directoire style gown, circa 1911, narrow label to the waist '26 Conduit Street, no 64502,' the bodice with lace chemisette and gathered tulle cross-over panels, wide lapels trimmed with cut steel buttons, satin belt with matching large buckle, floating satin panels descend from the rear bodice and trained skirt, bust approx 102cm, 40in, waist 82cm, 30in Provenance, Lots 38 to 40: These clothes came from the Pennant family of Nantlys Hall, Tremeirchion, Denbighshire. They belonged to Frances Bankes, from Soughton, near Mold, who married Philip Pennant Pearson of Nantlys in the 1862. Their son David married Lilla Rogers, the mother with the baby in the photo of April 1902. Philip died in 1910 and Frances in 1923. 'The Queen' magazine illustrated a similar directoire style gown worn with a large hat in 1911. The fashion notes announced that Empire styles were dominant with high waists and demi-trains. It is reproduced in 'Fashion Through Fashion Plates' by Doris Langley Moore, p.148-9. She writes 'We must go back to 1911 to see the headgear of the epoch in its glory. To wear the hat on one side is always a sort of coquetry, and when we have so extreme a slope that one eye is shadowed, almost covered, coquetry amounts to a challenge (but the serious challengers, the Suffragettes, did not favour such hats)....No vanished mode has ever been exactly imitated. Moreover,it is typical of revivals that they are an attempt to assume the character of an age not in the least resembling the one from which it seems desirable to escape.' £600 £800
39
 A Redfern sage green velvet walking suit, circa 1911, un-labelled, the jacket and skirt adorned with green frogging and lined in green silk; together with a Redfern petrol-blue faille jacket with striped green taffeta collar, black and gold label with Bond St and Conduit St addresses, with frogging to the rear skirt; and an un-labelled green satin skirt, chests 97cm, 38in, waists approx 92cm, 36in (4) £300 £500
40
 A rare Redfern ivory silk driving/duster coat, circa 1910, large woven label with 26 Conduit Street and 27 New Bond Street addresses, no 40135, the decorative tabs adorned with large buttons, silk loops to fasten; together with a Redfern dark bottle green wool coat, c.1911-14, with black and gold label, with 26 Conduit Street address, no 75225, with square sailor collar, broad belt, lined in satin, chests 92-97cm, 36-38in (2) £400 £600
41
 An ivory tapelace and black chiffon evening gown, circa 1905, the boned bodice trimmed with black satin rosettes to the shoulders and swags of sequined tulle edged in beaded pom-poms, deep pointed V to ivory satin waist, ruffles of lace to the sleeves, the separate skirt similarly trimmed and adorned, bust 86cm, 34in, waist 64cm, 25in (2) £300 £500
42
 A tea gown, circa 1890, formed from an 1830s Paisley design shawl, the ivory wool ground woven with large foliate botehs in predominantly red and blue, boned bodice, fastening by hooks to centre-front, bust 76cm, 30in £400 £600
43
 A rare Omega Workshop blouse, circa 1914, of white linen, the borders with faggotted seams, edged in Vanessa Bell designed 1913 'Maud' modernist printed linen in shades of blue and pink, of simple T-shaped construction, bust approx 86cm, 34in For a larger panel of this printed linen see the Victoria & Albert Museum collection: http://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O105854/maud-furnishing-fabric-bell-vanessa/ Exhibited: Anthony d'Offay Gallery, ' The Omega Workshops Alliance and Enmity in English Art 1911-1920', 1984 no 132. The Hayward Gallery 'Addressing the Century - 100 Years of Art & Fashion' 1998, which transferred to the Kunstmuseum, Wolfsburg in 1999. £2000 £3000
44
 A fine Reville & Rossiter deep magenta-pink satin opera coat, 1912, with dated embroidered satin label, the draped wrap-over front panels with piped seams, button to one hip, embroidered overall with large pearlised roses and foliage £600 £1000
45
 A black beaded tulle opera coat, mid 1920s, with overall seed and bugle bead cascade designs with scrolls to shoulders and hem, fastened by two glass buttons, £250 £350
46
 Two beaded dresses, late 1920s, one of black satin with large red and black beaded peonies and steel grey beaded fringes and floating panels falling from the shoulders, the other of royal blue chiffon with long fringes in shades of blue and ivory, both busts 92cm, 36in (2) £350 £500
47
 A beaded muslin opera coat, mid 1920s, the ivory ground covered in pink, silver and gold bugle beaded floral swags, with draped back cinching into low waist, batwing sleeves, scarf ties to the neck £600 £1000
48
 A Mariano Fortuny copper silk Delphos gown, circa 1920-30, stamped Fortuny to muslin tape on inside shoulder, with striped yellow Murano beads to the shoulders, armholes and sides £1500 £2000
49
 A fine embroidered and beaded chinoiserie jacket, attributed to Margaine Lacroix, circa 1925, of gold lamé adorned with pagodas and figures carrying parasols in mainly pink, blue and yellow beads and sequins with finely chain-stitched silk details, chest 102cm, 42in For similar coats by Margaine Lacroix with Egyptian and chinoiserie motifs see the Musée Palais Galiera catalogue 'Les Annes Folles 1919-1929'. £3000 £5000
50
 A Mariano Fortuny stencilled black velvet evening gown, circa 1920-30, with circular label to beige satin lining, the front and back stencilled in gold with interlocking geometric strapwork repeats with islamic calligraphy borders, the sleeves and sides inset with pleated black silk adorned with Murano glass beads, bust approx 92-97cm, 36-38in £2000 £3000
51
 A fine Mariano Fortuny black silk Delphos, circa 1920-30, printed in scarlet along the selvedge seam 'Made in Italy, Fabrique en Italie, Fortuny Depose', the long sleeves and neckline edged in striped Murano glass beads; the matching satin belt stencilled with silver leaves, also with Fortuny signature (2) £6000 £8000
52
 A Schiaparelli black satin-backed textured crêpe evening gown, early 1930s, bearing remains of early label '4 rue de la paix - Paris', with high halter-neck, low back with buttons below, the skirt falling in a pointed train to the back, bust approx 86cm, 34in Provenance: the vendor tells us that the dress originally belonged to Madame Agnes, the hat designer. Schiaparelli opened her first fashion house at 4 Rue de la Paix in 1928 which was part work-room, part apartment. The sign outside bore the legend 'Schiaparelli pour Sport'. She moved to 21 Place Vendôme in 1935. Although famed for her avant-garde creations, Schiaparelli was a good business woman and always ensured that sophisticated black evening gowns were included in every collection which appealed to a wider clientele. These were often sold with matching highly embellished evening jackets. Although many of the jackets survive - the dresses are more rare. £1500 £2500
53
 THIS LOT IS WITHDRAWN £0 £0
54
 A Jeanne Lanvin couture black satin bias-cut evening gown, Spring-Summer 1938, large woven label, pencil numbered to the reverse 26412, with curved bolero shaped seams to the front bodice, long sleeves with beaded, sequined and embroidered blue organza cuffs, bust 97cm, 38in, waist 86cm, 34in £400 £600
55
 Two Schiaparelli blouses, both bearing 21 Place Vendôme Paris printed labels, one of horizontally striped purple seersucker with blue enamelled button, probably 1930s; the other of acid-green slubbed silk c.1950, busts approx 97cm, 38in (2) £250 £300
56
 A Daphne black satin couture evening gown, late 1930s, labelled '37 South Molton Street, W1', the side panels tying in a bow at the back, criss-cross straps, bust approx 86cm, 34in £300 £500
57
 A Chanel couture black lace evening gown, mid 1930s, labelled and stamped 28068, bias-cut with flounces to the shoulders, cross-over to the back bodice, zig zag seam to front waist, the hem with bands of lace which form ruffles at the sides, organza piping, belt to waist, bust 97cm, 38in £2000 £3000
58
 A Madeleine Vionnet black velvet bias-cut gown, circa 1935, printed label, pencil numbered to the reverse 59423, with simple V-shaped seams above the centre-front raised waistline, X shaped seams and darts to the centre-back waist and curving side seams that follow the shape of the hips, balloon sleeves with single underarm seams with elasticated cuffs, bust 92cm, 36in £3000 £5000
59
 A Madame Grès ivory and dove-grey draped jersey evening gown, 1940s, un-labelled, fastened centre-front by hooks and eyes, with ivory front, reversing to grey at the back with deep V back, pointed, trained side panels, bust approx 86cm, 34in, waist 56cm, 22in £600 £1000