Mon, 25th Oct 2021 10:30 GMT/BST

Vintage Fashion, Antique Costume & Textiles

 
  Lot 80
 

Four Armani men's suits, circa 1990

labelled, in mainly gentle shades of grey, chalk and green; together with two Armani jackets; linen-blend duster coat; Armani Jeans pin-striped viscose shirt; four pairs of trousers and eight silk ties, all labelled; Romeo Gigli suit of pin-striped brown wool; Paul Smith example in a silk-wool blend; and Jasper Conran waistcoat of pastel melange tweed; all circa 1990, all labelled, chests approx 102-106cm, 40-42in, waists approx 81-92cm, 32-36in (qty)

Provenance: The John Hind Collection.
John Hind (1954-1995) graduated from the Royal College of Art with a degree in Graphic Design in 1979. At his graduation show he was spotted by Sue Mann, the then Art Editor at British Vogue and invited to join her team. He progressed to become Art Editor and later Creative Director working under Beatrix Miller, Anna Wintour and Liz Tilberis. As Creative Director, John Hind worked alongside the most prominent fashion photographers of the time including, among others, Lord Snowdon, David Bailey, Terry Jones, Bruce Weber, Herb Ritts, Patrick Demarchelier, Michel Haddi and Mario Testino. He left Vogue in 1992 and went on to develop a freelance career which was cut short by his premature death in 1995. Examples of his creative editorial work for John Galliano during the 1990s are held in the collection of the V&A, accession numbers E.238-1991, E.239-1991, E.240-1991 & E.241-1999.

(Qty: qty)

chests approx 102-106cm, 40-42in, waists approx 81-92cm, 32-36in

Estimate
£200 - £300
 

Buyer's premium: 25.00% (exclusive of VAT)


Viewing

Viewing for this sale is strictly by appointment only, and you must be registered to bid with us in advance. Please contact us directly to arrange an appointment, with the available times as follows:

Monday 11th October - Friday 15th October: 9:00am-5pm
Monday 18th October- Friday 22nd October: 9:00am-5pm

Additional viewing times may be considered, by special request.

Condition report

All would benefit from dry cleaning. Emporio Armani dark grey ribbed wool suit: good condition, very fresh, two very faint yellow marks to lining at crotch – minor, light soiling. Giorgio Armani grey fleck wool suit: this suit has been heavily used, lining at inside chest pockets discoloured and with biro marks - frayed at edge, lining soiled at neck edge, couple of soil marks, trousers with two spot stains to front legs, lining is very discoloured over crotch area, waistband lining is soiled, exterior is good. Giorgio Armani light grey summer suit: jacket exterior with faint stain above left pocket - otherwise good, trousers with a few small moth holes to front below waistband and two to left leg side, slight staining to cotton crotch panel. Giorgio Armani brown wool suit: jacket good condition, very fresh, no problems; trousers good condition, light stain to crotch lining, overall good condition. Armani silk ties: all very fresh, good condition. Armani shirt: good condition, light soiling inside neck. Giorgio Armani checked jacket: good condition, stain to lining inside neck edge. Emporio Armani navy wool jacket: good condition. Giorgio Armani duster coat: slight soiling, good condition. Five pairs of Armani trousers: Giorgio Armani grey wool pair with small stain to rear seam, stain to crotch lining, need cleaning, exterior is good. Giorgio Armani grey flecked wool stripe pair - overall good, slight soiling to cotton lining, exterior is good. Giorgio Armani charcoal grey/brown wool pair - stains to crotch area, exterior is good. Emporio Armani checked weave wool pair – good condition. Romeo Gigli brown wool pinstripe suit: good condition, slight staining to cotton trouser lining. Paul Smith brown wool suit: cuffs on jacket have been shortened, otherwise good condition.

Condition reports are prepared as a convenience to clients and should be used as a guide only. Kerry Taylor Auctions uses due care when preparing condition reports, however, our staff are not professional restorers or conservators. Prospective purchasers are in all cases responsible for inspecting the property themselves during the pre-sale exhibition or by private viewing. Condition reports are not warranties and each lot is sold "as is" in accordance with the terms and conditions of sale.


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Auction: Vintage Fashion, Antique Costume & Textiles, Mon, 25th Oct 2021

Morning session, lots 1-205, begins 10.30am

Afternoon session, lots 206-386, begins 2.30pm

If you wish to attend the auction at our saleroom and bid in person, please get in touch to book a place, as places are limited due to Covid regulations.

For more information on how to bid, please click here. If you wish to participate in live online bidding on the day, you must register via Invaluable here.

Our much-loved ‘Vintage Fashion, Antique Costume & Textiles’ auction returns. This eclectic sale features rail upon rail of covetable (and wearable!) vintage from every decade. Sparkling twenties flapper dresses, sexy seventies Ossie Clarks and chic sixties boutique fashions, eighties New Romantic creations by Willie Brown and others, as well as a wide selection of designer handbags by Chanel, Gucci, Louis Vuitton and Dior. Treasures include not one but two exceptionally rare Robe de Style gowns by Boué Soeurs. Although in fragile condition, incredibly they have maintained their original internal panniers and are adorned with the house’s signature ribbon-worked roses (lots 220 and 221). For the jewellery enthusiasts among us, we have twinkling bijoux from the collection of the late Johanna Beumer, MBE (lots 25-30). A life-long lover of glamour and greyhounds, Johanna was a founding member of The Greyhound Trust and was awarded an MBE in 2007 for her services to animal welfare. Family photographs show her attending events, always accessorising her outfits with brightly-coloured ‘jewels’ by Dior, Miriam Haskell, Butler and Wilson, among others - always with a greyhound by her side!

The exciting menswear chapter of this sale includes the wardrobe of the late John Hind (1954-1995): former Creative Director of British Vogue with emphasis on menswear. John graduated from the Royal College of Art with a degree in Graphic Design in 1979. As Creative Director he worked alongside Beatrix Miller, Anna Wintour and Liz Tilberis, collaborating with the most prominent fashion photographers of the time including: Lord Snowdon, David Bailey, Herb Ritts and Michel Haddi, among others. He left Vogue in 1992 and went on to develop a freelance career which was cut short by his premature death in 1995. With his dashing good looks and eye for design, John was the epitome of the fashionable, elegant man of the late 1980s-early 1990s. The ensembles in this collection date to circa 1990, when John was working at Vogue. They are a snapshot of those fleeting years: the bright, ostentatious colours of Gianni Versace and the leather cool of Claude Montana begin to give way to the refined elegance of Richard James and the softer, muted earth tones and gentle tailoring of Giorgio Armani (lots 77-95).

The final chapter of this auction offers for sale one of the most comprehensive and complete collections of Vogue magazine (mainly British) ever to come on the market, from the design archive of fashion designer Sally Tuffin (lots 323-386). Also featured are other insightful publications, such as Harper’s Bazaar and Jardin des Modes. The 64 lots in total are presented chronologically and begin with a rare and early bound volume of Vogue (Continental version) from 1918 (lot 323), all the way through to a complete run of British Vogue, 1990-2000 (lot 385). The collection offers a month-by-month historically accurate commentary on the evolution of the entire 100 years of the 20th century (bar the occasional, minor issue) and showcases designs by Chanel, Dior, Molyneux… and many more.

Viewing

Viewing for this sale is strictly by appointment only, and you must be registered to bid with us in advance. Please contact us directly to arrange an appointment, with the available times as follows:

Monday 11th October - Friday 15th October: 9:00am-5pm
Monday 18th October- Friday 22nd October: 9:00am-5pm

Additional viewing times may be considered, by special request.

View all lots in this sale

Terms & Conditions

1. Introduction
(a) The contractual relationship of Kerry Taylor Auctions Ltd &. and Sellers with prospective Buyers is governed by:-
(i) these Conditions of Business for Buyers;
(ii) the Conditions of Business for Sellers displayed in the saleroom and available from Kerry Taylor Auctions Ltd;
(iii) Kerry Taylor Auctions Ltd’s Authenticity Guarantee;
(iv) any additional notices and terms printed in the sale catalogue, in each case as amended by any saleroom notice or auctioneer’s announcement.
(b) As auctioneer, Kerry Taylor Auctions Ltd acts as agent for the Seller. Occasionally, Kerry Taylor Auctions Ltd may own or have a financial interest in a lot.

2. Definitions
“Bidder” is any person making, attempting or considering making a bid, including Buyers;
“Buyer” is the person who makes the highest bid or offer accepted by the auctioneer, including a Buyer’s principal when bidding as agent;
“Seller” is the person offering a lot for sale, including their agent, or executors;
“KT” means Kerry Taylor Auctions Ltd of 249-253 Long Lane, Bermondsey, London, SE1 4PR, company number 7173571
“Buyer’s Expenses” are any costs or expenses due to Kerry Taylor Auctions from the Buyer;
“Buyer’s Premium” is the commission payable by the Buyer on the Hammer Price at the rates set out in the Guide for Prospective Buyers;
“Hammer Price” is the highest bid for the Property accepted by the auctioneer at the auction or the post auction sale price;
“Purchase Price” is the Hammer Price plus applicable Buyer’s Premium and Buyer’s Expenses;
“Reserve Price” (where applicable) is the minimum Hammer Price at which the Seller has agreed to sell a lot.

The Buyer’s Premium, Buyer’s Expenses and Hammer Price are subject to VAT, where applicable.

3. Examination of Lots
(a) KT’s knowledge of lots is partly dependent on information provided by the Seller and KT is unable to exercise exhaustive due diligence on each lot. Each lot is available for examination before sale. Bidders are responsible for carrying out examinations and research before sale to satisfy themselves over the condition of lots and accuracy of descriptions.
(b) All oral and/or written information provided to Bidders relating to lots, including descriptions in the catalogue, condition reports or elsewhere are statements of KT’s opinion and not representations of fact. Estimates may not be relied on as a prediction of the selling price or value of the lot and may be revised from time to time at KT’s absolute discretion.

4. Exclusions and limitations of liability to Buyers
(a) KT shall refund the Purchase Price to the Buyer in circumstances where it deems that the lot is a Counterfeit, subject to the terms of KT’s Authenticity Guarantee.
(b) Subject to Condition 4(a), neither KT nor the Seller:-
(i) is liable for any errors or omissions in any oral or written information provided to Bidders by KT, whether negligent or otherwise;
(ii) gives any guarantee or warranty to Bidders and any implied warranties and conditions are excluded (save in so far as such obligations cannot be excluded by English law), other than the express warranties given by the Seller to the Buyer (for which the Seller is solely responsible) under the Conditions of Business for Sellers;
(iii) accepts responsibility to Bidders for acts or omissions (whether negligent or otherwise) by KT in connection with the conduct of auctions or for any matter relating to the sale of any lot.
(c) Without prejudice to Condition 4(b), any claim against KT and/ or the Seller by a Bidder is limited to the Purchase Price for the relevant lot. Neither KT nor the Seller shall be liable for any indirect or consequential losses.
(d) Nothing in Condition 4 shall exclude or limit the liability of KT or the Seller for death or personal injury caused by the negligent acts or omissions of KT or the Seller.

5. Bidding at Auction
(a) KT has absolute discretion to refuse admission to the auction. Before sale, Bidders must complete a Registration Form and supply such information and references as KT requires. Bidders are personally liable for their bid and are jointly and severally liable with their principal, if bidding as agent (in which case KT’s prior and express consent must be obtained).
(b) KT advises Bidders to attend the auction, but KT will endeavour to execute absentee written bids provided that they are, in KT’s opinion, received in sufficient time and in legible form.
(c) When available, written and telephone bidding is offered as a free service at the Bidder’s risk and subject to KT’s other commitments; KT is therefore not liable for failure to execute such bids. Telephone bidding may be recorded.

6. Import, Export and Copyright Restrictions
KT and the Seller make no representations or warranties as to whether any lot is subject to import, export or copyright restrictions. It is the Buyer’s sole responsibility to obtain any copyright clearance or any necessary import, export or other licence required by law, including licenses required under the Convention on the International Trade in Endangered Species (CITES).

7. Conduct of the Auction
(a) The auctioneer has discretion to refuse bids, withdraw or re-offer lots for sale (including after the fall of the hammer) if (s)he believes that there may be an error or dispute, and may also take such other action as (s)he reasonably deems necessary.
(b) The auctioneer will commence and advance the bidding in such increments as (s)he considers appropriate and is entitled to place bids on the Seller’s behalf up to the Reserve Price for the lot, where applicable.
(c) Subject to Condition 7(a), the contract between the Buyer and the Seller is concluded on the striking of the auctioneer’s hammer.
(d) Any post-auction sale of lots shall incorporate these Conditions of Business.

8. Payment and Collection
(a) Unless otherwise agreed in advance, payment of the Purchase Price is due in pounds sterling immediately after the auction (the “Payment Date”). If paying by bank wire, any bank fees must be added so that the final amount received is not less than the invoice total.
(b) Title in a lot will not pass to the Buyer until KT has received the Purchase Price in cleared funds. KT will generally not release a lot to a Buyer before payment. Earlier release shall not affect passing of title or the Buyer’s obligation to pay the Purchase Price, as above.
(c) The refusal of any licence or permit required by law, as outlined in Condition 6, shall not affect the Buyer’s obligation to pay for the lot, as per Condition 8(a).
(d) The Buyer must arrange collection of lots within 10 working days of the auction. Purchased lots are at the Buyer’s risk from the earliest of (i) collection or (ii) 10 working days after the auction. Until risk passes, KT will compensate the Buyer for any loss or damage to the lot up to a maximum of the Purchase Price actually paid by the Buyer. KT’s assumption of risk is subject to the exclusions detailed in Condition 5(d) of the Conditions of Business for Sellers.
(e) All packing and handling of lots is at the Buyer’s risk. KT will not be liable for any acts or omissions of third party packers or shippers.

9. Remedies for non-payment
Without prejudice to any rights that the Seller may have, if the Buyer without prior agreement fails to make payment for the lot within 5 working days of the auction,KT may in its sole discretion exercise 1 or more of the following remedies:-

(a) store the lot at its premises or elsewhere at the Buyer’s sole risk and expense;
(b) cancel the sale of the lot;
(c) set off any amounts owed to the Buyer by KT against any amounts owed to KT by the Buyer for the lot;
(d) reject future bids from the Buyer;
(e) charge interest at 4% per annum above The Bank of England’s Base Rate from the Payment Date to the date that the Purchase Price is received in cleared funds;
(f) re-sell the lot by auction or privately, with estimates and reserves at KT’s discretion, in which case the Buyer will
be liable for any shortfall between the original Purchase Price and the amount achieved on re-sale, including all costs incurred in such re-sale;(g) exercise a lien over any Buyer’s Property in KT’s possession, applying the sale proceeds to any amounts owed by the Buyer to KT. KT shall give the Buyer 14 days written notice before exercising such lien;
(h) commence legal proceedings to recover the Purchase Price for the lot, plus interest and legal costs;
(i) disclose the Buyer’s details to the Seller to enable the Seller to commence legal proceedings.
(j) disclose the Buyer’s details to other auction houses and any third parties as we see fit

10. Failure to collect purchases
(a) If the Buyer pays the Purchase Price but does not collect the lot within 14 working days of the auction, the lot will be stored at the Buyer’s expense and risk at KT’s premises or in independent storage.
(b) If a lot is paid for but uncollected within 6 months of the auction, following 60 days written notice to the Buyer, KT will re-sell the lot by auction or privately, with estimates and reserves at KT’s discretion. The sale proceeds, less all KT’s costs, will be forfeited unless collected by the Buyer within 2 years of the original auction.

11. Data Protection
(a) KT will use information supplied by Bidders or otherwise obtained lawfully by KT for the provision of auction related services, client administration, marketing and as otherwise required by law.
(b) By agreeing to these Conditions of Business, the Bidder agrees to the processing of their personal information and to the disclosure of such information to third parties world-wide for the purposes outlined in Condition 11(a) and to Sellers as per Condition 9(i).

12. Miscellaneous
(a) All images of lots, catalogue descriptions and all other materials produced by KT are the copyright of KT.
(b) These Conditions of Business are not assignable by any Buyer without KT’s prior written consent, but are binding on Bidders’ successors, assigns and representatives.
(c) The materials listed in Condition 1(a) set out the entire agreement between the parties.
(d) If any part of these Conditions of Business be held unenforceable, the remaining parts shall remain in full force and effect.
(e) These Conditions of Business shall be interpreted in accordance with English Law, under the exclusive jurisdiction of the English Courts, in favour of KT

Kerry Taylor Auctions Ltd Authenticity Guarantee
If Kerry Taylor Auctions Ltd sells an item of Property which is later shown to be a “Counterfeit”, subject to the terms below Kerry Taylor Auctions Ltd will rescind the sale and refund the Buyer the total amount paid by the Buyer to Kerry Taylor Auctions Ltd for that Property, up to a maximum of the Purchase Price.

The Guarantee lasts for one (1) year after the date of the relevant auction, is for the benefit of the Buyer only and is non-transferable.

“Counterfeit” means an item of Property that in Kerry Taylor Auctions Ltd ‘s reasonable opinion is an imitation created with the intent to deceive over the authorship, origin, date, age, period, culture or source, where the correct description of such matters is not included in the catalogue description for the Property.
Property shall not be considered Counterfeit solely because of any damage and/or restoration and/or modification work .

Please note that this Guarantee does not apply if either:-
(i) the catalogue description was in accordance with the generally acceptedopinions of scholars and experts at the date of the sale, or the catalogue description indicated that there was a conflict of such opinions; or
(ii) the only method of establishing at the date of the sale that the item was a Counterfeit would have been by means of processes not then generally available or accepted, unreasonably expensive or impractical; or likely to have caused damage to or loss in value to the Property (in Kerry Taylor Auctions Ltd’s reasonable opinion); or
(iii) there has been no material loss in value of the Property from its value had it  accorded with its catalogue description.

To claim under this Guarantee, the Buyer must:-
(i) notify Kerry Taylor Auctions Ltd in writing within one (1) month of receiving any information that causes the Buyer to
question the authenticity or attribution of the Property, specifying the lot number,
date of the auction at which it was
purchased and the reasons why it is believed to be Counterfeit; and
(ii) return the Property to Kerry Taylor Auctions Ltd in the same condition as at the date of sale and be able to transfer good title in the Property, free from any third party claims arising after the date of the sale.

Kerry Taylor Auctions Ltd has discretion to waive any of the above requirements. Kerry Taylor Auctions Ltd may require the Buyer to obtain at the Buyer’s cost the reports of two independent and recognised experts in the relevant field. Kerry Taylor Auctions Ltd shall not be bound by any reports produced by the Buyer, and reserves the right to seek additional expert advice at its own expense. In the event Kerry Taylor Auctions Ltd decides to rescind the sale under this Guarantee, it may refund to the Buyer the reasonable costs of up to two mutually approved independent expert reports, provided always that the costs of such reports have been approved in advance and in writing by Kerry Taylor Auctions Ltd.

 

Last updated: 23rd May 2014

 
 

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