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September

Biba Girl! - Featuring The Pari Collection (online only auction)

Biba Girl! - Featuring The Pari Collection (online only auction)

Starts: 9th Sep, 2024 9:00 GMT+1/BST
Ends: 16th Sep, 2024 19:00 GMT+1/BST

 

To mark the 60th anniversary of the opening of Biba’s first boutique on 87 Abingdon Road, this September Kerry Taylor Auctions celebrates all things Biba. We feature a week-long online-only auction and exhibition of Biba clothes, accessories and ephemera, and will be hosting and collaborating on several special events throughout the week.

The auction opens for bidding at 9:00 am on Monday the 9th of September and will begin closing at 7:00 pm on Monday the 16th. Comprising over 160 lots the sale spans Biba’s history– from its inception as a mail-order boutique to the multi-sensory extravagance of the Big Biba store on Kensington High Street.

Biba is regarded as one of Britain’s most important fashion brands, not only because of the innovative L-darted busts, unusual sleeve shapes and dazzling fabrics that illuminated the British fashion scene at such a vital time of change but also due to its influence on how fashion companies conduct business that is still reflected in the high street today.

After starting a mail-order boutique in 1963 (named Biba after the designer’s sister), Barbara Hulanicki was featured in the Daily Mirror alongside one of her dresses. A simple gingham design with a matching headscarf. This outfit captured the imagination of a generation, eventually amassing a staggering 17,000 orders. Hulanicki opened the first Biba store in September 1964 on 87 Abington Road and within 16 months had moved to a larger premises at 19-21 Kensington Church Street (where Vogue editor Anna Wintour famously used to work on Saturdays). The clothes were imaginative, colourful, young, and affordable – a democratizing force in fashion that shaped the way people of all backgrounds could suddenly choose to dress. Hulanicki’s designs had broad references taken from Edwardian night shirts, to Cossack uniforms and the Renaissance, yet she kept them exuberantly contemporary – her clothes were ‘happening’. And while other copycat boutiques began to pop-up all over London, Barbara stayed ahead of the curve.

On the 10th of September 1973 Barbara opened Big Biba, a vast and ambitious project that spanned the 100,000 square foot, seven-floor building of the old Derry & Toms department store at 99-117 Kensington High Street. The space transcended the prevailing ideas of what a clothing store was, instead becoming a multi-sensory experience and destination. The original building was created in the Art Deco style but the interiors, designed by Tim Whitmore and Steve Thomas, drew from various sources such as Victorian, Art Nouveau, Art Deco, pop art and post-modernism, the lighting was low and each floor became an immersive environment that complemented its specific contents. There was a ‘Lolita’ children’s floor replete with toadstools, a maternity section featuring comically outsized furniture and for menswear they included a ‘mistress’ area where men could discreetly peruse more sensual items. And then there was the dazzling multi-coloured rainbow room – a celebrity hotspot billed as a place to ‘eat, drink, meet friends, dance and be happy in’, that attracted the likes of David Bowie, Mick Jagger and Bryan Ferry. It was the first ‘lifestyle’ store in London selling everything from cane furniture and slippery satin sheets to dog food. On top of the building stood an immense roof garden, which (thanks to it becoming Grade II listed) still retains many of its original features today. Sprawling over 1.5 acres, well-heeled guests relaxed there for afternoon tea amongst the resident flamingos and against the iconic skyline of the Swinging City. Big Biba was not a shop, it was an entire universe, and being a ‘Biba Girl’ became a full-time lifestyle.

While Biba closed its doors in 1975 after changes to the management structure of Biba Ltd, the spirit and innovations of Hulanicki’s work live on. In 2010 she was acknowledged by the New York Times as being the inventor of fast fashion and it has often been noted that major brands such as Topshop and Zara owe the ambitious nature of their business models to her. The recent retrospective curated by Martin Pel at the Fashion and Textiles Museum in Bermondsey has seen record numbers coming through their doors and as testament to the prevailing allure of the designs, many people continue to collect Biba clothes today. Viva la Biba!

The Pari Collection

Pari first came across Biba in the 1980s at a stall on Portobello Road Market. She was held spellbound by the striking cut of a 1974 brown double-breasted jacket with exaggerated shoulders and saved up to pay for it in instalments every week. What began as fascination soon grew into an obsession and Pari has since amassed one of the largest private collections of Biba clothes, shoes, accessories, cosmetics and ephemera in the world; even becoming the subject of books, newspaper articles and TV-shows. We are delighted that 147 of the lots in this auction come from her world-renowned wardrobe.

 

Public Viewing times

Monday 9th September – 11am-5pm

Tuesday 10th September – 10am-5pm

Wednesday 11th September 10am-5pm

Thursday 12th September - Closed for School of Historical dress event

Friday 13th September 10am-5pm (some items may not be viewable on this day)

Saturday 14th September - Closed

Sunday 15th September – 12pm-5pm

Monday 16th September – 10am-5pm

 

Special Events

To coincide with the historic Biba anniversary and to celebrate Barbara Hulanicki’s brief return to London we have organised and collaborated on the following events:

An Evening With Barbara Hulanicki, Biba book preview and Biba Girl! exhibition
Tuesday 10th September, 6-9pm (anniversary of the opening of Big Biba on Kensington High Street)
A private reception at our saleroom where the Biba designer will converse with curator and author Martin Pel, discussing some of her favourite pieces from the Biba Girl! Auction. Copies of Barbara and Martin’s new book, Biba: The Fashion Brand that Defined a Generation, signed by the authors, will be available to buy on the night. Pari will also be available to discuss aspects of her collection. This event is by invitation only and is now full.

The content, cut, construction & context of Biba garments, 1968–73 
Thursday 12th September, 10am-6pm
Join Jenny Tiramani and Claire Thornton from The School of Historical Dress at the KTA saleroom to learn about the innovative techniques employed to make iconic Biba garments and acquire the knowledge to make your own. Tickets Available HERE

 

June

Passion for Fashion & The Mr Steven Philip Collection (Part 2)

Passion for Fashion & The Mr Steven Philip Collection (Part 2)

Lot: 1 to 235 - 11th Jun, 2024 9:00 GMT+1/BST
Lot: 236 to 509 - 11th Jun, 2024 14:00 GMT+1/BST
Catalogue: Download PDF catalogue

This year’s June auction is one of the most comprehensive Passion for Fashion sales that we have ever put together! We are honoured to not only have been trusted with the Mr Steven Philip Collection Part 2, but the collections of several important owners, many of whom worked closely with the designers, be it through modelling or working with them behind the scenes.

 

The Mr Steven Philip Collection: Part 2

This time last year we presented the Mr Steven Philip collection Part 1, which rightly demonstrated how a lifetime of shrewd collecting and a fastidious eye for detail can result in extraordinary auction results. We are delighted to offer the second chapter of this prestigious collection with over 90 carefully curated lots that will kick off the afternoon session (lots 236-319) of our Passion for Fashion auction on the 11th of June. This instalment continues to reveal Mr Steven Philip’s expertise for important British and international fashion with a focus on John Galliano, Vivienne Westwood, Alexander McQueen and Bill Gibb.

The Lisa Scales Collection

Lisa Scales was model and muse for John Galliano and walked in many of his most memorable runway shows. We are pleased to present 15 lots (nos. 207-221) from Lisa’s personal collection that she acquired during her long friendship with the designer, in some cases, Galliano giving items from his own collection so that she could complete a look.

 The Trino Verkade Collection

Trino Verkade was Alexander McQueen’s first employee in 1994 and continued to work with him in various roles until his death in 2010. She worked as a consultant for the Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty exhibition at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in 2011 and is now CEO of ‘Sarabande’; the charitable foundation set up by Alexander McQueen in 2006. Due to her close connection to both the designer and the brand, we are delighted to offer over 50 lots (nos. 72-124) spanning rare early showpieces such as an ensemble from ‘Highland Rape’, and a Givenchy haute couture by McQueen dress from Spring-Summer 1997, to powerful later works such as sequinned Isabelle blow portrait dress from ‘La Dame Bleue’ S/S 2008, as well as key pieces form his final shows ‘Plato’s Atlantis’ and ‘Angels and Demons’.

Isabella Tonchi

Isabella Tonchi started as a young designer in her late teens. She enjoyed the punk scene as a teenager and fell in love with Vivienne Westwood and Malcolm McLaren's philosophy and creations. In the 1980's she started working as a fashion designer for Fiorucci and in the early 90's for Romeo Gigli, Miu Miu, Calvin Klein and Versace. Part of her collection is represented in this auction in lots 341-351.

 

There are plenty more treasures to sift through and with an auction of this scale it is important to get your condition report requests in as early as possible. Our next sale in Paris will be on June 23rd so keep a lookout for updates that will be on their way to you soon!

For more information on how to bid, please click here. Live bidding is now possible via our website on sale day. In order to bid online, please ensure you have created an account with us and that your account is enabled for live bidding - new clients will need to email us a form of photo ID, proof of address and paid invoices from other auction houses where appropriate. Once you have created an account and have been approved to bid, please click the purple 'Pre-register for live bidding' button which will appear on the online catalogue before the sale. You then need to accept the terms and conditions to proceed. On the day of the sale, a button marked 'Bid live' will appear on the website and clicking this will allow you to access the live bidding platform. Please note that there is an additional 1.5% charge plus VAT for any lots won via our online bidding platform. Please also note that online bidding is automatically capped at £6,000 in total - if you envisage that you will exceed this amount, please contact us directly so we can remove the bidding cap - we may ask for further information from you before doing this.

Clients who prefer to bid via Invaluable or Drouot still have this option. Please note the charge for bidding online via these platforms is 3% plus VAT. We strongly advise that you register to bid in advance of the auction and not the day of, as we cannot guarantee approval once the auction has begun.

 

Viewing Times

June 7th: 09:30-17:00

June 9th: 11:00-17:00

June 10th: 09:30-15:00

April

Vintage Fashion, Antique Costume & Textiles

Vintage Fashion, Antique Costume & Textiles

Lot: 1 to 234 - 16th Apr, 2024 9:00 GMT+1/BST
Lot: 237 to 467 - 16th Apr, 2024 14:00 GMT+1/BST

Catalogue: Download PDF catalogue

With two sales in Paris and three in London under our belt already this year, the excitement doesn't stop at KTA with another extraordinary offering in our Spring auction.

Amongst exquisite lots like the Christian Dior camelia blossom hat on the cover page (lot 321), we have a fantastic selection from some of our favourite names such as Vivienne Westwood (including a great 'Harris Tweed' crown - lot 198), Ossie Clarke and Chanel to name but a few - and for the budding archivist, there's also (nearly) every issue of British Vogue from 1980 to 2003 (lots 91-114).

Few dresses can claim to be as iconic of an era as the sheer metal Liza Bruce number Kate Moss wore to the Elite Model's 'Look Of The Year' party in 1993. The flash photography rendered the dress more see-through than had initially been anticipated and the titillating images that resulted have become some of the most reproduced candid fashion shots of the 1990s. That Liza Bruce purportedly only ever made a handful of these dresses (one of which is in the collection of the Victoria & Albert Museum, London) makes it all the more extraordinary to have one available in our sale (lot 170). And if that wasn't enough, we also have the actual Judy Blame-designed t-shirt that Kate wore on the cover of ID Magazine in 1991 (lot 128). And for even more celebrity glamour we have the pretty pink printed Ingeborg blouse worn by Barbera Streisand in the film 'For Pete's Sake' in 1974 (lot 291).

Our auctions are never short of museum-quality offerings and what better than those that have come straight from the designer's own archives? We have included the final part of the wonderful Sue Clowes collection which over the past year has proven how her powerful designs have more than stood the test of time. But we are also excited to introduce a selection of gorgeous knitwear from the Spaghetti Archive designed by Nadia la Valle - a collection of supreme quality that, while still very wearable, is so evocative of late1970s style.

The 1960s and 1970s are well represented generally with especially important pieces such as a Pierre Cardin 'Bone' dress (lot 310) a Biba black lace ensemble (lot 313), a fine Thea Porter kaftan (lot 290), and an Yves Saint Laurent lace up maxi dress (lot 262). But the other end of the 20th century is equally as impressive with flapper dresses which you would be very hard-pressed to find better examples of.

The sale ends with a strong Chinese section, including several 'Horse Faced' skirts, finely embroidered chang-fu and unusual cross-cultural items including a cheongsam made of Western Art Deco silk (lot 459), and a Western Opera jacket made from repurposed Dragon Robe silk (lot 454). 

Get us your condition report requests ASAP and good luck bidding!

March

The Male Sale

The Male Sale

Date: 26th Mar, 2024 14:00 GMT+1/BST
Catalogue: Download PDF catalogue

Kerry Taylor Auctions is delighted to present our inaugural menswear auction: The Male Sale. Comprising 173 lots that span over 250 years of men’s fashion, there is something for gentlemen of every sartorial persuasion.

The 18th century was perhaps the pinnacle of male opulence, and it is easy to understand why with the first lot in the auction: an extravagant sleeved waistcoat ornately brocaded with floral motifs in floss silks and silver threads on sumptuous crimson satin. Or lot 2 - an embroidered waistcoat whose rhythmic foliate sprigs appear to dance on the elegant ivory ground.

However Men’s fashions have often necessitated certain practical elements, and the striking 1930s motorcycling coat (lot 13) is exemplary of just that. Made of rubber to shield from the elements, a hidden flap can be strapped between the rider’s legs for additional protection – while giving the wearer a rather spectacular look! Lot 10, a 1912 stalking ensemble, similarly matches form and function with specially branded outsized pockets to store birds and game.

For the Dandies out there we have a groovy selection of 1960s ensembles perfect for peacocking down the King’s Road(lots 15-21) including a dazzling multicoloured leather Mr Fish outfit and archetypical looks from the likes of Brent & Collins and Hung on You.

Vivenne Westwood is well represented through the decades – from important earlier pieces like an original World’s End Buffalo sheepskin coat (lot 30) and a risqué Seditionaries ‘Dancing Cowboys’ t-shirt similar to the one that was responsible for getting the artist Alan Jones arrested in 1975 - and which suitably comes from the collection of another renowned artist: A.A. Bronson. For some less provocative options, there are a plethora of wonderful tartan suits as well as rare, printed denim ensembles from iconic collections such as ‘Always on Camera’ A/W 1992/93 (lot 78) and ‘Mini Crini’, S/S 1986 (lot 41)

The auction contains a huge variety of Jean Paul Gaultier items that demonstrate how the designer helped to redefine masculinity in the 1980s and 90s, a large number of which are unique pieces that never went into production due to either the high manufacturing cost, or the outrageousness of the designs making them unsuitable for retail. Included are rare pieces from important collections such as ‘Chic Rabbis/Vikings’ A/W 1993/94; ‘Tatoos/The Raw and Refined’ S/S 1994, ‘Grand Voyage’ A/W 1994/95, ‘Mad Max/Riders and Horsemen of the Modern Times’ A/W 1995/96 and ‘Tribute to Frida Kahlo/Flamenco’ S/S 1998. Gaultier would often exhibit his men’s and women’s lines at the same time and on the same catwalk, but each collection had distinct names so in these instances we have tried to provide the names of both collections for clarity. In 1993 Jean Paul Gaultier launched his androgynous ‘Jean’s’ label which saw incredible silhouettes marketed at a cool young crowd who were happy to eschew normative forms of menswear and womenswear. From the launch show are several one-of-a-kind pieces such as lots: 80, 81, 84, 85, 86 which you will likely never have a chance to purchase again.

So many important Gaultier themes are represented, such as his Breton striped sailors with fall front trousers (lots 53, 75, 77, 79, 82, 84, 85, 111, 125, 130, 131, 153), as well as the various cultural influences (religion, artists, dance, industrialism, fantasy, futurism) that thematically underpinned his best-loved shows. Gaultier loved seeing men dressed in clothes that had traditionally been reserved for women, and there are excellent examples here such as the 1993 denim corset (Lot 83), or the unbelievably rare 1987 leather waist cincher (Lot 47) – or for a slightly brighter approach we have Converse All Star style waistcoats with corsetry lacing at the back in both red and black colourways (Lots 73 and 76). Male skirts come in the form of kilts such as lot 84’s denim example which is a one-of-a-kind prototype for similar examples worn a year later on the runway for the Tattoos collection. Or another from the Tattoos collection itself printed with the iconic imagery from the show (lot 92). For one of his most iconic creations – the trouser skirt – look no further than lot 154, and for a deconstructed tiny ‘mini’ skirt/loin cloth see lot 79 – an ensemble best suited to only the bravest (or perhaps the proudest) of men.

But Gaultier was not alone in blurring the lines between stereotypically male and female garments. A group of Hardy Amies clothes (lots 139-141) includes a leather waist cincher among several tailoring masterpieces such as a bespoke fur-trimmed coat made specifically for the house’s then-creative director Ian Garlant.

Finishing the sale off are bold modern designs by the likes of Walter van Bierendonck and Charles Jefferey whose joyful colourful creations demonstrate how men’s clothes continue to be a conduit of fun, creativity and ever-evolving style.

Please note that there is an additional 1.5% charge plus VAT for any lots won via our online bidding platform. 

 

Lights Camera Auction - Online Only Sale

Lights Camera Auction - Online Only Sale

Starts: 22nd Feb, 2024 13:15 GMT+1/BST
Ends: 11th Mar, 2024 16:00 GMT+1/BST

Fancy lunch with Hugh Bonneville, an after-theatre meet and greet as a guest of Ralph Fiennes (yes please!)– or a smashing  day out at the Goodwood Revival?

These are just a few of our fabulous online lots. To accompany our stellar costume auction kind donors and celebrity Ambassadors of the Bright Foundation have supported this charity auction with gifts of personal items, signed books and photographs and incredible one of a kind experiences that normally money cannot buy!

You can spoil yourself with a luxurious hotel break or vineyard tour; groove at a music festival, watch ‘The Killers on stage or while away an afternoon browsing the incredible workrooms at Cosprop where so many of the fabulous costumes were made.

All sale proceeds will go towards the charity and bidders can be secure in the knowledge that their purchases will assist The Bright Foundation’s art-based projects for disadvantaged young people. Kerry Taylor is donating the buyer’s premium to this just cause.

John Bright:“My life’s work has been committed to costume design for film, tv and theatre and I feel incredibly fortunate to have been able to pursue this path. It is my firmly held belief that the arts and creativity can shape happier and healthier children and enable young people to reach their full potential.” (Click here to watch John Bright A Life In Costume) 

We would like to take this opportunity to thank Bidpath (KTA live) for providing a live bidding platform free of charge and to all the generous donors in this sale.

 

 

  

 

If you are the successful bidder, please note that we accept remote card payments up to £2,000 and card payments in person up to £10,000. If your invoice exceeds these amounts, you will have to arrange a bank wire. We expect payment as soon as you receive your invoice. 

Lights Camera Auction - Live Cosprop Sale

Lights Camera Auction - Live Cosprop Sale

Date: 5th Mar, 2024 18:00 GMT+1/BST

 

Last year, Bafta & Academy award winning costumier and designer John Bright invited Kerry Taylor to visit the renowned Cosprop store to select costumes for this special charity auction in aid of The Bright Foundation. The sale proceeds will go to this arts-based education charity based in Hastings, which provides free access to creative activities, visual and performance arts for children and young people facing disadvantage. 

This is your opportunity to own a piece of screen history with 69 lots featuring costumes worn by screen legends including: 

MADONNA • JOHNNY DEPP • HEATH LEDGER • ELIZABETH TAYLOR • MERYL STREEP • KEIRA KNIGHTLEY •  MARGOT ROBBIE • GWYNETH PALTROW • UMA THURMAN • RENEE ZELLWEGER • COLIN FIRTH • HELENA BONHAM CARTER • JULIE ANDREWS  • JUDI DENCH • EDDIE REDMAYNE • DANIEL RADCLIFFE • KATE WINSLET and also starring costumes from TV dramas including: DOWNTON ABBEY • PEAKYBLINDERS • POLDARK • POIROT • PRIDE & PREJUDICE
 

The costumes range in style from fantasy Renaissance creations to more wearable 20th century silhouettes and will appeal to serious Hollywood and tv period drama costume collectors, or those who just like to dress up!  Cosprop is renowned the world over for its historically accurate and detailed costumes. For nearly 60 years, John Bright has brought characters and moments in time vividly to life on stage and screen helping to realise the creative visions of generations of award-winning costume designers. He is equally revered and respected by actors grateful for the fine costumes provided to assist them create their characters.  

Other actors represented include Gwyneth Paltrow (Emma), Nicole Kidman (The Portrait of a Lady, The Others), Cate Blanchett (Elizabeth), Dame Judi Dench (Murder on the Orient Express), Dame Julie Andrews (Victor Victoria), Aidan Turner (Poldark), Suranne Jones (Gentleman Jack), Alan Rickman (The Demon Barber of Fleet Street), Carey Mulligan (Far From the Madding Crowd), Robert Downey Junior and Jude Law (Sherlock Holmes), Ann Margret (Scarlett), Kate Winslet (Finding Neverland), Emily Blunt (The English), Emma Thompson (Howard’s End), Vanessa Redgrave (Mrs Dalloway),  Emma Hall (Parade’s End), Margot Robbie (Goodbye Christopher Robin), Dougray Scott (Ever After), Alicia Vikander & Eddie Redmayne (The Danish Girl), Helen McCrory, Tom Hardy & Paul Anderson (Peaky Blinders), Amy Adams (Miss Pettigrew Lives for a Day),  Edward Fox (Edward & Mrs Simpson) , Marion Cotillard (La vie en Rose). 

Bidders can acquire costumes for enjoyment, investment or simply to dress up in, secure in the knowledge that their purchases will also assist The Bright Foundation’s projects for disadvantaged young people. 

John Bright:“My life’s work has been committed to costume design for film, tv and theatre and I feel incredibly fortunate to have been able to pursue this path. It is my firmly held belief that the arts and creativity can shape happier and healthier children and enable young people to reach their full potential.” (Click here to watch John Bright A Life In Costume)

To coincide with the live event a timed online only auction, will run from 22nd February until 10th March, featuring around 40 eclectic lots including one-of-a-kind experiences, celebrity memorabilia, original artworks, fashion, fine dining and personal items donated by the stellar list of celebrity Ambassadors and supporters of the Bright Foundation. See website for further details. 

 

We would like to thank Bidpath (KTA Live) and Invaluable for offering their bidding platforms to our clients free of charge for this special charity auction only as their donation to The Bright Foundation. 

 

Kerry Taylor Auctions is donating the Buyers Premium to The Bright Foundation

 

 

If you are the successful bidder, please note that we accept remote card payments up to £2,000 and card payments in person up to £10,000. If your invoice exceeds these amounts, you will have to arrange a bank wire. We expect payment as soon as you receive your invoice. 

February

Lights Camera Auction - Online Only Sale

Lights Camera Auction - Online Only Sale

Starts: 22nd Feb, 2024 13:15 GMT+1/BST
Ends: 11th Mar, 2024 16:00 GMT+1/BST

Fancy lunch with Hugh Bonneville, an after-theatre meet and greet as a guest of Ralph Fiennes (yes please!)– or a smashing  day out at the Goodwood Revival?

These are just a few of our fabulous online lots. To accompany our stellar costume auction kind donors and celebrity Ambassadors of the Bright Foundation have supported this charity auction with gifts of personal items, signed books and photographs and incredible one of a kind experiences that normally money cannot buy!

You can spoil yourself with a luxurious hotel break or vineyard tour; groove at a music festival, watch ‘The Killers on stage or while away an afternoon browsing the incredible workrooms at Cosprop where so many of the fabulous costumes were made.

All sale proceeds will go towards the charity and bidders can be secure in the knowledge that their purchases will assist The Bright Foundation’s art-based projects for disadvantaged young people. Kerry Taylor is donating the buyer’s premium to this just cause.

John Bright:“My life’s work has been committed to costume design for film, tv and theatre and I feel incredibly fortunate to have been able to pursue this path. It is my firmly held belief that the arts and creativity can shape happier and healthier children and enable young people to reach their full potential.” (Click here to watch John Bright A Life In Costume) 

We would like to take this opportunity to thank Bidpath (KTA live) for providing a live bidding platform free of charge and to all the generous donors in this sale.

 

 

  

 

If you are the successful bidder, please note that we accept remote card payments up to £2,000 and card payments in person up to £10,000. If your invoice exceeds these amounts, you will have to arrange a bank wire. We expect payment as soon as you receive your invoice.