Kerry Taylor Auctions proudly presents Passion for Fashion, an extraordinary sale of museum-quality couture, avant-garde masterpieces, and historic garments. This season’s catalogue is a celebration of fashion history and artistry.
Leigh Bowery (1961–1994) was a groundbreaking performance artist, fashion designer, and club icon whose provocative and surreal creations challenged conventional ideas of beauty, gender, and identity. Known for his flamboyant costumes, extreme body modifications, and theatrical persona, Bowery became a central figure in London’s underground scene during the 1980s and early 1990s, particularly in relation to Avante Garde nightclub Taboo.
While Leigh did make some fashions to sell, he never did so in great quantity, for, as Boy George commented, “anyone who wore them simply ended up looking like Leigh”. It is, therefore, extraordinary to be offering 7 lots by the avant-garde designer, including 4 eye-catching outfits from his personal wardrobe.
Josephine Baker (1906–1975) was an American-born French entertainer, activist, and style icon who became one of the most celebrated performers of the 20th century. Rising to fame in 1920s Paris with her daring dance routines and charismatic stage presence, Baker broke racial barriers and redefined notions of glamour and freedom. Beyond her artistic achievements, she was a committed civil rights activist and served as a spy for the French Resistance during World War II.
Her legacy endures as a symbol of resilience, artistry, and social progress. We are therefore delighted to offer 8 ensembles from Baker’s wardrobe, including several dazzling stage-worn costumes, and some of her customised early Jean Dessès haute couture designs.
Alexander McQueen designs are a firm favourite here at Kerry Taylor auctions. But there are three lots that stand out in this sale: A sequined corset gown from the ‘Deliverance’ collection, which appears to fall off the body with tragic elegance – on the runway the model was seen collapsed in the arms of her dancing partner before helplessly being dragged off stage. A gorgeous degradé fuchsia and purple kimono from the ‘La Dame Bleue’ collection, with exquisite trailing sleeve panels that recall wings – a central motif of the show. The ensemble is completed with the rare matching shoes and belt, making it a truly museum-worthy look. And, finally, a dazzling gold sequined dress from the ‘Witches of Salem’ collection, formed with intricate patterns of paillettes that follow and accentuate the lines of the body.
Several of the McQueen pieces on offer are made all the more special as they come from the personal collection of Lee’s muse Annabelle Nielson, including several rare photographs of the designer from her personal archive.
Early Margiela pieces remain extremely difficult to source, as few pieces from the hugely influential formative shows were ever sold. However, in this sale we have several examples, including extraordinary full ensembles from the highly revered Spring-Summer 1990 show, that have come directly from the wardrobe of a runway model who wore them at the time.
There are several showstopping John Galliano ensembles on offer in this sale. The ‘Clam’ dress from Spring-Summer 1988 stands out for its unquestionable beauty and technical prowess, with the delicate pleats and curves of the skirt recalling the age rings found on the inside of seashells. It made such an impact at the time that 15 years later, Alexander McQueen was inspired to create his own version of it for his shipwreck-themed ‘Irere’ collection in 2003. Galliano himself would revisit the design in Spring-Summer 1995 and alluded to it in his Christian Dior haute couture show, ‘Pin-Up’ Spring-Summer 2007.
Other important pieces from this period include rare dresses and separates from collections such as ‘Fallen Angels’ and ‘The Ludic Game’, as well as important ensembles from ‘The Rose’, complete with their rare-to-find headpieces. The auction also offers an array of sensual designs from the 1990s and 2000s, spanning Galliano’s own label and his tenure at Christian Dior. These bias-cut silhouettes and lavishly embellished gowns remain as striking and wearable today as when they first graced the runway.
This season’s sale boasts an eclectic array of costume jewellery, from iconic runway pieces to rare avant-garde treasures. From Chanel, there are important mid-century designs from Goossens and Gripoix, including a fantastic multicoloured beaded necklace, along with playful designs from the 1980s, such as earrings in the form of cherubs, clothes hangers or even perfume bottles.
One standout is arguably the most legendary accessory of the 1990s: the Chanel Gladiator belt. Immortalised in the image of Linda Evangelista for Chanel’s Nouvelle Rapper show—draped in gold with the belt taking centre stage—it epitomises a fearless era of fashion that transformed subcultural motifs into objets d’art.
Equally provocative is an exceptionally rare set of Westwood/McLaren pendant earrings, dated 1976. These miniature, anatomically inspired forms shocked audiences then, and may still today, perfectly encapsulating the rebellious spirit of the boutique’s infamous theme: SEX.
For those seeking pure elegance, the auction includes a glamorous selection of Madame Grès jewellery, many of which were lent to the Metropolitan Museum of Art for their 1994 retrospective exhibition, and perfectly encapsulate the timeless elegance for which she was known.
The Japanese section features several pivotal early designs by Rei Kawakubo for Comme des Garçons. Characterised by voluminous silhouettes, asymmetric tailoring, and deliberately distressed fabrics, these pieces embody the radical aesthetic that defined Kawakubo’s ground-breaking Paris shows and reshaped global fashion in the 1980s. Beyond that, there are more modern designs from the lauded ‘Body Meets Dress…Dress Meets Body collection’ Spring-Summer 1997, as well as important ensembles from Yohji Yamamoto and Issey Miyake.
With so many rare and important lots on offer it is difficult to choose a favourite. But don’t miss your chance to own a piece of fashion history!
Lot 4 - A Chanel by Karl Lagerfeld black and brown tweed jacket, Autumn-Winter 2018-19
Sold for £1,430
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 12 - A Chanel by Karl Lagerfeld black and white cotton-blend jersey dress, circa 2017
Sold for £546
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 13 - A Chanel by Karl Lagerfeld rhinestone hair comb, 2016
Sold for £364
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 17 - A Chanel by Karl Lagerfeld green and red bouclé tweed coat, Autumn-Winter 2014-15
Sold for £4,420
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 23 - A Chanel Cambon beige calfskin camera bag, 2005-06
Sold for £715
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 24 - A pair of Chanel by Karl Lagerfeld little black gloves, 2000s
Sold for £1,560
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 25 - A Chanel by Karl Lagerfeld black silk mini camellia classic flap shoulder bag, 2003-04
Sold for £1,105
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 26 - A Chanel haute couture by Karl Lagerfeld oatmeal bouclé wool coat, Autumn-Winter 2002-03
Sold for £1,690
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 27 - A Chanel cashmere blanket, early 2000s
Sold for £338
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 28 - A Chanel haute couture by Karl Lagerfeld lime green ensemble, Spring-Summer 2001
Sold for £2,470
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 32 - A Chanel haute couture by Karl Lagerfeld taupe moss crêpe coat, Spring-Summer 1998
Sold for £845
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 34 - A Chanel by Karl Lagerfeld gold tone brooch, Autumn-Winter 1997-98
Sold for £364
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 36 - A Chanel by Karl Lagerfeld yellow tweed jacket, Cruise 1995
Sold for £780
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 43 - A pair of Chanel by Karl Lagerfeld clothes hanger earrings, Autumn-Winter 1988-89
Sold for £2,860
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 44 - A Chanel by Karl Lagerfeld black wool coat, late 1980s
Sold for £1,040
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 46 - A Chanel by Karl Lagerfeld cream chiffon cocktail dress, Autumn-Winter 1987-88
Sold for £7,150
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 48 - A pair of Chanel gilt and faux pearl numerical earrings, Spring-Summer 1982
Sold for £715
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 50 - A Chanel by Karl Lagerfeld gilt and cabochon chain belt, 1985
Sold for £845
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 51 - A Chanel haute couture by Karl Lagerfeld cream wool skirt, Spring-Summer 1985
Sold for £715
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 52 - A Chanel by Karl Lagerfeld gilt and leather chain belt, circa 1985
Sold for £624
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 54 - A pair of Chanel by Karl Lagerfeld poured glass and faux pearl earrings, 1980s
Sold for £364
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 55 - A Chanel haute couture silk summer suit, circa 1979
Sold for £715
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 57 - An haute couture suit, attributed to Chanel. circa 1975
Sold for £715
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 58 - A Chanel haute couture navy blue jersey suit, circa 1973
Sold for £845
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 60 - A Gabrielle Chanel haute couture black wool and silk ensemble, circa 1969
Sold for £975
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 61 - A Gabrielle Chanel haute couture tweed suit, circa 1969
Sold for £5,200
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 62 - An haute couture suit, attributed to Chanel, probably late 1960s
Sold for £520
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 63 - A Gabrielle Chanel haute couture faux pearl sautoir, late 1960s
Sold for £780
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 66 - A Gabrielle Chanel haute couture brass and rhinestone bracelet, 1970s
Sold for £4,680
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 67 - A Gabrielle Chanel haute couture gilt filigree cherub belt, 1960s
Sold for £1,040
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 68 - An haute couture wool suit, attributed to Gabrielle Chanel, circa 1961
Sold for £2,860
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 69 - A Gabrielle Chanel haute couture embroidered silk skirt suit, 1959
Sold for £1,820
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 70 - A Gabrielle Chanel haute couture by Gripoix beaded necklace, 1950s-60s
Sold for £3,120
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 72 - A Christian Dior faceted gem collar necklace, 1959
Sold for £2,600
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 73 - A Christian Dior by Mitchel Maer 'Bal des Oiseaux' demi-parure, 1955-56
Sold for £3,380
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 74 - A Madame Grès by Robert Goossens bronze choker necklace, 1969
Sold for £6,240
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 75 - A pair of Madame Grès by Robert Goossens hammered and textured bronze earrings, 1969
Sold for £286
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 76 - A Madame Grès by Robert Goossens metal and poured glass diadem, 1960s
Sold for £11,050
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 78 - A pair of Madame Grès by Robert Goossens patinated metal earrings, circa 1960
Sold for £364
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 79 - A pair of Madame Grès by Robert Goossens silver-tone bracelets, circa 1960
Sold for £1,820
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 80 - A Madame Grès by Robert Goossens metal wreath belt, circa 1960
Sold for £3,380
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 81 - A pair of Madame Grès by Robert Goossens silver-tone lion mask earrings, circa 1960
Sold for £234
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 82 - A pair of Madame Grès metal and fur cuffs, 1960s
Sold for £494
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 83 - A Madame Grès faux-tortoiseshell and rhinestone choker necklace, 1970s-80s
Sold for £1,105
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 84 - A group of Madame Grès earrings, 1970s-80s
Sold for £260
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 87 - A Madame Grès demi parure, probably 1970s
Sold for £650
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 88 - A Madame Grès rhinestone choker necklace, 1970s-80s
Sold for £260
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 89 - A Madame Grès gilt chain and pate de verre choker necklace, 1970s-80s
Sold for £286
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 90 - A Madame Grès chain and pate de verre choker necklace, 1970s-80s
Sold for £260
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 91 - A Madame Grès bauble choker and two bracelets, 1970s-80s
Sold for £234
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 92 - A Van Cleef & Arpels for Asprey styptor and diamond minaudière, circa 1940
Sold for £2,470
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 93 - Y An Hermès Miel Crocodile Kelly 32, 1988
Sold for £15,600
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 94 - Two Hermès canvas and leather travel/overnight bags, 1960s
Sold for £715
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 95 - A Cartier London gold silk brocade handbag, 1962
Sold for £650
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
