Kerry Taylor Auctions proudly presents Passion for Fashion, an extraordinary sale of museum-quality couture, avant-garde masterpieces, and historic garments. This season’s catalogue is a celebration of fashion history and artistry.
Leigh Bowery (1961–1994) was a groundbreaking performance artist, fashion designer, and club icon whose provocative and surreal creations challenged conventional ideas of beauty, gender, and identity. Known for his flamboyant costumes, extreme body modifications, and theatrical persona, Bowery became a central figure in London’s underground scene during the 1980s and early 1990s, particularly in relation to Avante Garde nightclub Taboo.
While Leigh did make some fashions to sell, he never did so in great quantity, for, as Boy George commented, “anyone who wore them simply ended up looking like Leigh”. It is, therefore, extraordinary to be offering 7 lots by the avant-garde designer, including 4 eye-catching outfits from his personal wardrobe.
Josephine Baker (1906–1975) was an American-born French entertainer, activist, and style icon who became one of the most celebrated performers of the 20th century. Rising to fame in 1920s Paris with her daring dance routines and charismatic stage presence, Baker broke racial barriers and redefined notions of glamour and freedom. Beyond her artistic achievements, she was a committed civil rights activist and served as a spy for the French Resistance during World War II.
Her legacy endures as a symbol of resilience, artistry, and social progress. We are therefore delighted to offer 8 ensembles from Baker’s wardrobe, including several dazzling stage-worn costumes, and some of her customised early Jean Dessès haute couture designs.
Alexander McQueen designs are a firm favourite here at Kerry Taylor auctions. But there are three lots that stand out in this sale: A sequined corset gown from the ‘Deliverance’ collection, which appears to fall off the body with tragic elegance – on the runway the model was seen collapsed in the arms of her dancing partner before helplessly being dragged off stage. A gorgeous degradé fuchsia and purple kimono from the ‘La Dame Bleue’ collection, with exquisite trailing sleeve panels that recall wings – a central motif of the show. The ensemble is completed with the rare matching shoes and belt, making it a truly museum-worthy look. And, finally, a dazzling gold sequined dress from the ‘Witches of Salem’ collection, formed with intricate patterns of paillettes that follow and accentuate the lines of the body.
Several of the McQueen pieces on offer are made all the more special as they come from the personal collection of Lee’s muse Annabelle Nielson, including several rare photographs of the designer from her personal archive.
Early Margiela pieces remain extremely difficult to source, as few pieces from the hugely influential formative shows were ever sold. However, in this sale we have several examples, including extraordinary full ensembles from the highly revered Spring-Summer 1990 show, that have come directly from the wardrobe of a runway model who wore them at the time.
There are several showstopping John Galliano ensembles on offer in this sale. The ‘Clam’ dress from Spring-Summer 1988 stands out for its unquestionable beauty and technical prowess, with the delicate pleats and curves of the skirt recalling the age rings found on the inside of seashells. It made such an impact at the time that 15 years later, Alexander McQueen was inspired to create his own version of it for his shipwreck-themed ‘Irere’ collection in 2003. Galliano himself would revisit the design in Spring-Summer 1995 and alluded to it in his Christian Dior haute couture show, ‘Pin-Up’ Spring-Summer 2007.
Other important pieces from this period include rare dresses and separates from collections such as ‘Fallen Angels’ and ‘The Ludic Game’, as well as important ensembles from ‘The Rose’, complete with their rare-to-find headpieces. The auction also offers an array of sensual designs from the 1990s and 2000s, spanning Galliano’s own label and his tenure at Christian Dior. These bias-cut silhouettes and lavishly embellished gowns remain as striking and wearable today as when they first graced the runway.
This season’s sale boasts an eclectic array of costume jewellery, from iconic runway pieces to rare avant-garde treasures. From Chanel, there are important mid-century designs from Goossens and Gripoix, including a fantastic multicoloured beaded necklace, along with playful designs from the 1980s, such as earrings in the form of cherubs, clothes hangers or even perfume bottles.
One standout is arguably the most legendary accessory of the 1990s: the Chanel Gladiator belt. Immortalised in the image of Linda Evangelista for Chanel’s Nouvelle Rapper show—draped in gold with the belt taking centre stage—it epitomises a fearless era of fashion that transformed subcultural motifs into objets d’art.
Equally provocative is an exceptionally rare set of Westwood/McLaren pendant earrings, dated 1976. These miniature, anatomically inspired forms shocked audiences then, and may still today, perfectly encapsulating the rebellious spirit of the boutique’s infamous theme: SEX.
For those seeking pure elegance, the auction includes a glamorous selection of Madame Grès jewellery, many of which were lent to the Metropolitan Museum of Art for their 1994 retrospective exhibition, and perfectly encapsulate the timeless elegance for which she was known.
The Japanese section features several pivotal early designs by Rei Kawakubo for Comme des Garçons. Characterised by voluminous silhouettes, asymmetric tailoring, and deliberately distressed fabrics, these pieces embody the radical aesthetic that defined Kawakubo’s ground-breaking Paris shows and reshaped global fashion in the 1980s. Beyond that, there are more modern designs from the lauded ‘Body Meets Dress…Dress Meets Body collection’ Spring-Summer 1997, as well as important ensembles from Yohji Yamamoto and Issey Miyake.
With so many rare and important lots on offer it is difficult to choose a favourite. But don’t miss your chance to own a piece of fashion history!
Lot 97 - Y A Bottega Veneta pink crocodile 'Pouch' clutch, 2019
Sold for £4,680
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 98 - An Alexander McQueen by Sarah Burton black wool jacket, Spring-Summer 2022
Sold for £1,300
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 99 - An Alexander McQueen by Sarah Burton black wool blend jacket, Resort 2022
Sold for £2,470
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 101 - An Alexander McQueen by Sarah Burton red leather bustier, circa 2019
Sold for £1,170
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 105 - A Versace by Donatella Versace embellished mini dress, Autumn-Winter 2015-16
Sold for £3,640
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 106 - A Balmain by Christophe Decarnin black leather jacket, Spring-Summer 2011
Sold for £975
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 107 - A Tom Ford green lace evening gown, Autumn-Winter 2011-12
Sold for £4,420
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 109 - An Iris van Herpen slashed and gilded leather coat-dress, Autumn-Winter 2010-11
Sold for £845
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 110 - A Dolce & Gabbana black silk evening dress, 2010s
Sold for £1,300
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 111 - A Moschino by Rossella Jardini 'Pearly Queen' tutu, 2011
Sold for £3,640
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 120 - An Alexander McQueen red and black feather-print evening gown, commercial collection 2009
Sold for £1,170
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 121 - An Alexander McQueen crystal-embelished viscose jersey dress, circa 2009
Sold for £1,170
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 129 - An Alexander McQueen black lace evening dress, 'Sarabande' collection, Spring-Summer 2007
Sold for £2,600
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 130 - An Alexander McQueen printed silk evening gown, commercial collection 2007
Sold for £780
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 131 - An Alexander McQueen ensemble, 'It's Only a Game' collection, Spring-Summer 2005
Sold for £520
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 135 - An Alexander McQueen 'Orchid' dress, 'Pantheon as Lecum' collection, Autumn-Winter 2004-05
Sold for £1,105
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 136 - An Alexander McQueen sequined corset gown, 'Deliverance' collection, Spring-Summer 2004
Sold for £33,800
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 138 - An Alexander McQueen ensemble, 'Irere' collection, Spring-Summer 2003
Sold for £1,690
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 139 - An Alexander McQueen shearling coat, 'Eshu' collection, Autumn-Winter 2000-01
Sold for £1,170
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 141 - An Ann Ray (Anne Deniau) image of Lee Alexander McQueen, circa 2000
Sold for £650
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 142 - An Oscar de la Renta chiné taffeta evening gown, Autumn-Winter 2013-14
Sold for £1,950
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 144 - A John Galliano silk evening gown, Cruise 2009
Sold for £624
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 145 - A Christian Dior by John Galliano red faille cocktail dress, pre-collection 2008
Sold for £1,105
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 147 - A Christian Dior by John Galliano fuchsia chiffon and satin evening dress, Cruise 2008
Sold for £910
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 148 - A Christian Dior by John Galliano white crêpe evening gown, Cruise 2008
Sold for £7,800
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 149 - A Christian Dior by John Galliano printed chiffon cocktail dress, Cruise 2008
Sold for £975
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 153 - A John Galliano black crêpe evening gown, circa 2007
Sold for £975
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 156 - A John Galliano carnation-print silk gown, 'Renee' collection, Autumn-Winter 2005-06
Sold for £3,380
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 159 - A John Galliano newspaper print mini dress, circa 2005
Sold for £598
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 160 - A John Galliano printed silk dress, commercial collection 2005
Sold for £1,430
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 162 - A Christian Dior by John Galliano pale brown goat suede dress, pre-collection 2004
Sold for £650
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 163 - A John Galliano red lace evening gown, 2000s
Sold for £1,560
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 167 - A John Galliano toile de jouy cocktail dress, commercial collection 2003
Sold for £3,900
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 168 - A John Galliano multicoloured pleated dress, 'Esquimeau' collection, Autumn-Winter 2002-03
Sold for £975
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 170 - A Christian Dior by John Galliano printed chiffon dress, commercial collection 2001
Sold for £2,600
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 171 - A Christian Dior by John Galliano chiné taffeta evening gown, commercial collection 2000
Sold for £3,120
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 173 - A Vivienne Westwood faux fur ensemble, 'Chaos Point' collection, Autumn-Winter 2008-09
Sold for £975
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 178 - A pair of Vivienne Westwood black mock-croc leather elevated ghillie heels, 2000s
Sold for £780
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 179 - A pair of Vivienne Westwood red patent leather elevated ghillie heels, 2000s
Sold for £780
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 180 - A Balmain by Christophe Decarnin embellished black cotton jacket, Spring-Summer 2009
Sold for £3,120
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 182 - A Versace by Donatella Versace pink evening gown, Spring-Summer 2007
Sold for £1,820
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 183 - A Versace by Donatella Versace black corset dress, Autumn-Winter 2003-04
Sold for £3,380
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 184 - A Roberto Cavalli beaded black viscose jersey evening dress, circa 2007
Sold for £650
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 185 - A Roberto Cavalli black silk chiffon evening gown, Autun-Winter 2001-02
Sold for £5,460
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 187 - An Yves Saint Laurent by Tom Ford black leather coat, Autumn-Winter 2001-02
Sold for £1,170
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 188 - An Azzedine Alaïa ruched black cupro goddess dress, circa 2004
Sold for £7,800
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
