Kerry Taylor Auctions proudly presents Passion for Fashion, an extraordinary sale of museum-quality couture, avant-garde masterpieces, and historic garments. This season’s catalogue is a celebration of fashion history and artistry.

Leigh Bowery (1961–1994) was a groundbreaking performance artist, fashion designer, and club icon whose provocative and surreal creations challenged conventional ideas of beauty, gender, and identity. Known for his flamboyant costumes, extreme body modifications, and theatrical persona, Bowery became a central figure in London’s underground scene during the 1980s and early 1990s, particularly in relation to Avante Garde nightclub Taboo.

While Leigh did make some fashions to sell, he never did so in great quantity, for, as Boy George commented, “anyone who wore them simply ended up looking like Leigh”. It is, therefore, extraordinary to be offering 7 lots by the avant-garde designer, including 4 eye-catching outfits from his personal wardrobe.

Josephine  Baker (1906–1975)  was an American-born French entertainer, activist, and style icon who became one of the most celebrated performers of the 20th century. Rising to fame in  1920s Paris with her daring dance routines and charismatic stage presence,  Baker broke racial barriers and redefined notions of glamour and freedom.  Beyond her artistic achievements, she was a committed civil rights activist and served as a spy for the French Resistance during World War II.

Her legacy endures as a symbol of resilience, artistry, and social progress. We are therefore delighted to offer 8 ensembles from Baker’s wardrobe, including several dazzling stage-worn costumes, and some of her customised early Jean Dessès haute couture designs.

Alexander  McQueen  designs are a firm favourite here at Kerry Taylor auctions. But there are three  lots that stand out in this sale: A sequined corset gown from the ‘Deliverance’  collection, which appears to fall off the body with tragic elegance – on the runway the model was seen collapsed in the arms of her dancing partner before  helplessly being dragged off stage. A gorgeous degradé fuchsia and purple kimono from the ‘La Dame Bleue’ collection, with exquisite trailing sleeve  panels that recall wings – a central motif of the show. The ensemble is  completed with the rare matching shoes and belt, making it a truly museum-worthy look. And, finally, a dazzling gold sequined dress from the ‘Witches of Salem’ collection, formed with intricate patterns of paillettes that follow and accentuate the lines of the body.

Several of the McQueen pieces on offer are made all the more special as they come from the personal collection of Lee’s muse Annabelle Nielson, including several rare photographs of the designer from her personal archive.

Early Margiela pieces remain extremely difficult to source, as few pieces from the hugely influential formative shows were ever sold. However, in this sale we have several examples, including extraordinary full ensembles from the highly revered Spring-Summer 1990 show, that have come directly from the wardrobe of a runway model who wore them at the time.

There are several showstopping John Galliano ensembles on offer in this sale. The ‘Clam’ dress from Spring-Summer 1988 stands out for its unquestionable beauty and technical prowess, with the delicate pleats and curves of the skirt recalling the age rings found on the inside of seashells.  It made such an impact at the time that 15 years later, Alexander McQueen was inspired to create his own version of it for his shipwreck-themed ‘Irere’  collection in 2003. Galliano himself would revisit the design in Spring-Summer  1995 and alluded to it in his Christian Dior haute couture show, ‘Pin-Up’ Spring-Summer  2007.

Other important pieces from this period include rare dresses and separates from collections such as ‘Fallen Angels’ and ‘The Ludic Game’, as well as important ensembles from ‘The Rose’, complete with their rare-to-find headpieces. The auction also offers an array of sensual designs from the 1990s and 2000s, spanning Galliano’s own label and his tenure at Christian Dior. These bias-cut silhouettes and lavishly embellished gowns remain as striking and wearable today as when they first graced the runway.

This season’s sale boasts an eclectic array of costume jewellery, from iconic runway pieces to rare avant-garde treasures. From Chanel, there are important mid-century designs from Goossens and Gripoix, including a fantastic multicoloured beaded necklace, along with playful designs from the 1980s, such as earrings in the form of cherubs, clothes hangers or even perfume bottles.

One standout is arguably the most legendary accessory of the 1990s: the Chanel Gladiator belt. Immortalised in the image of Linda Evangelista for Chanel’s Nouvelle Rapper show—draped in gold with the belt taking centre stage—it epitomises a fearless era of fashion that transformed subcultural motifs into objets d’art.

Equally provocative is an exceptionally rare set of Westwood/McLaren pendant earrings, dated 1976. These miniature, anatomically inspired forms shocked audiences then, and may still today, perfectly encapsulating the rebellious spirit of the boutique’s infamous theme: SEX.

For those seeking pure elegance, the auction includes a glamorous selection of Madame Grès jewellery, many of which were lent to the Metropolitan Museum of Art for their 1994 retrospective exhibition, and perfectly encapsulate the timeless elegance for which she was known.

The Japanese section features several pivotal early designs by Rei Kawakubo for Comme des Garçons. Characterised by voluminous silhouettes, asymmetric tailoring, and deliberately distressed fabrics, these pieces embody the radical aesthetic that defined Kawakubo’s ground-breaking Paris shows and reshaped global fashion in the 1980s. Beyond that, there are more modern designs from the lauded ‘Body Meets Dress…Dress Meets Body collection’ Spring-Summer 1997, as well as important ensembles from Yohji Yamamoto and Issey Miyake.

With so many rare and important lots on offer it is difficult to choose a favourite. But don’t miss your chance to own a piece of fashion history!