Kerry Taylor Auctions proudly presents Passion for Fashion, an extraordinary sale of museum-quality couture, avant-garde masterpieces, and historic garments. This season’s catalogue is a celebration of fashion history and artistry.
Leigh Bowery (1961–1994) was a groundbreaking performance artist, fashion designer, and club icon whose provocative and surreal creations challenged conventional ideas of beauty, gender, and identity. Known for his flamboyant costumes, extreme body modifications, and theatrical persona, Bowery became a central figure in London’s underground scene during the 1980s and early 1990s, particularly in relation to Avante Garde nightclub Taboo.
While Leigh did make some fashions to sell, he never did so in great quantity, for, as Boy George commented, “anyone who wore them simply ended up looking like Leigh”. It is, therefore, extraordinary to be offering 7 lots by the avant-garde designer, including 4 eye-catching outfits from his personal wardrobe.
Josephine Baker (1906–1975) was an American-born French entertainer, activist, and style icon who became one of the most celebrated performers of the 20th century. Rising to fame in 1920s Paris with her daring dance routines and charismatic stage presence, Baker broke racial barriers and redefined notions of glamour and freedom. Beyond her artistic achievements, she was a committed civil rights activist and served as a spy for the French Resistance during World War II.
Her legacy endures as a symbol of resilience, artistry, and social progress. We are therefore delighted to offer 8 ensembles from Baker’s wardrobe, including several dazzling stage-worn costumes, and some of her customised early Jean Dessès haute couture designs.
Alexander McQueen designs are a firm favourite here at Kerry Taylor auctions. But there are three lots that stand out in this sale: A sequined corset gown from the ‘Deliverance’ collection, which appears to fall off the body with tragic elegance – on the runway the model was seen collapsed in the arms of her dancing partner before helplessly being dragged off stage. A gorgeous degradé fuchsia and purple kimono from the ‘La Dame Bleue’ collection, with exquisite trailing sleeve panels that recall wings – a central motif of the show. The ensemble is completed with the rare matching shoes and belt, making it a truly museum-worthy look. And, finally, a dazzling gold sequined dress from the ‘Witches of Salem’ collection, formed with intricate patterns of paillettes that follow and accentuate the lines of the body.
Several of the McQueen pieces on offer are made all the more special as they come from the personal collection of Lee’s muse Annabelle Nielson, including several rare photographs of the designer from her personal archive.
Early Margiela pieces remain extremely difficult to source, as few pieces from the hugely influential formative shows were ever sold. However, in this sale we have several examples, including extraordinary full ensembles from the highly revered Spring-Summer 1990 show, that have come directly from the wardrobe of a runway model who wore them at the time.
There are several showstopping John Galliano ensembles on offer in this sale. The ‘Clam’ dress from Spring-Summer 1988 stands out for its unquestionable beauty and technical prowess, with the delicate pleats and curves of the skirt recalling the age rings found on the inside of seashells. It made such an impact at the time that 15 years later, Alexander McQueen was inspired to create his own version of it for his shipwreck-themed ‘Irere’ collection in 2003. Galliano himself would revisit the design in Spring-Summer 1995 and alluded to it in his Christian Dior haute couture show, ‘Pin-Up’ Spring-Summer 2007.
Other important pieces from this period include rare dresses and separates from collections such as ‘Fallen Angels’ and ‘The Ludic Game’, as well as important ensembles from ‘The Rose’, complete with their rare-to-find headpieces. The auction also offers an array of sensual designs from the 1990s and 2000s, spanning Galliano’s own label and his tenure at Christian Dior. These bias-cut silhouettes and lavishly embellished gowns remain as striking and wearable today as when they first graced the runway.
This season’s sale boasts an eclectic array of costume jewellery, from iconic runway pieces to rare avant-garde treasures. From Chanel, there are important mid-century designs from Goossens and Gripoix, including a fantastic multicoloured beaded necklace, along with playful designs from the 1980s, such as earrings in the form of cherubs, clothes hangers or even perfume bottles.
One standout is arguably the most legendary accessory of the 1990s: the Chanel Gladiator belt. Immortalised in the image of Linda Evangelista for Chanel’s Nouvelle Rapper show—draped in gold with the belt taking centre stage—it epitomises a fearless era of fashion that transformed subcultural motifs into objets d’art.
Equally provocative is an exceptionally rare set of Westwood/McLaren pendant earrings, dated 1976. These miniature, anatomically inspired forms shocked audiences then, and may still today, perfectly encapsulating the rebellious spirit of the boutique’s infamous theme: SEX.
For those seeking pure elegance, the auction includes a glamorous selection of Madame Grès jewellery, many of which were lent to the Metropolitan Museum of Art for their 1994 retrospective exhibition, and perfectly encapsulate the timeless elegance for which she was known.
The Japanese section features several pivotal early designs by Rei Kawakubo for Comme des Garçons. Characterised by voluminous silhouettes, asymmetric tailoring, and deliberately distressed fabrics, these pieces embody the radical aesthetic that defined Kawakubo’s ground-breaking Paris shows and reshaped global fashion in the 1980s. Beyond that, there are more modern designs from the lauded ‘Body Meets Dress…Dress Meets Body collection’ Spring-Summer 1997, as well as important ensembles from Yohji Yamamoto and Issey Miyake.
With so many rare and important lots on offer it is difficult to choose a favourite. But don’t miss your chance to own a piece of fashion history!
Lot 292 - A rare David Holah printed cotton chemise from his student degree show, 1982
Sold for £1,560
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 293 - A rare Richard Torry knitted oversized 'Target' coat, 1983
Sold for £910
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 294 - A rare Christopher Nemeth faux-fur trimmed overcoat, mid-1980s
Sold for £1,040
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 295 - A rare Christopher Nemeth papier-maché and decoupage customised Harrods jacket, 1980s
Sold for £4,420
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 296 - A John Flett navy-blue cotton and linen dress, 1980s
Sold for £1,820
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 297 - A John Flett brown rayon-cotton blend dress, 1980s
Sold for £598
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 298 - A John Flett maroon viscose and gold lurex dress, Autumn-Winter 1988-89
Sold for £1,690
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 299 - A John Flett black cotton jersey dress, 1980s
Sold for £650
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 302 - A John Galliano red faille shift dress, 'Charles James' collection, Spring-Summer 1989
Sold for £1,105
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 303 - A John Galliano brown wool suit, 'Hairclips' collection, Autumn-Winter 1988-89
Sold for £3,120
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 305 - A John Galliano brown wool jumpsuit, 'Hairclips' collection, Autumn-Winter 1988-89
Sold for £4,680
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 308 - A John Galliano black rayon-blend skirt, 'Panniers' collection, Spring-Summer 1987
Sold for £1,170
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 309 - A John Galliano aubergine wool suit, 'Nancy Cunard' collection, Autumn-Winter 1989-90
Sold for £1,235
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 311 - A John Galliano black gabardine jacket, 'The Rose' collection, Autumn-Winter 1987-88
Sold for £1,040
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 314 - A John Galliano grey viscose-blend dress, 'The Rose' collection Autumn-Winter 1987-88
Sold for £1,170
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 315 - A John Galliano grey viscose blend dress, 'The Rose' collection, Autumn-Winter 1987-88
Sold for £7,150
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 316 - An interesting group of John Galliano patchworked fabric samples, 1985-1992
Sold for £650
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 319 - A rare John Galliano cotton cropped shirt, 'Fallen Angels' collection, Spring-Summer 1986
Sold for £1,950
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 320 - A John Galliano pale green cotton skirt, 'Fallen Angels' collection, Spring-Summer 1986
Sold for £1,105
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 322 - A Vivienne Westwood velvet and faux fur crown, circa 1989
Sold for £2,340
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 328 - A Vivienne Westwood silver-coated jersey corset, Spring-Summer or Autumn-Winter 1988-89
Sold for £845
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 333 - A Westwood/McLaren day-glo yellow slip dress, 'Hypnos' collection, Spring-Summer 1984
Sold for £1,040
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 334 - A Westwood/McLaren checked cotton ensemble, 'Hypnos' collection, Spring-Summer 1984
Sold for £1,800
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 336 - A Westwood/McLaren ensemble, 'Witches' collection Autumn-Winter 1983-84
Sold for £5,980
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 341 - A rare Westwood/McLaren Keith Haring scarf, 'Witches' collection, Autumn-Winter 1983-84
Sold for £2,600
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 344 - A Westwood/McLaren ensemble, 'Punkature' (Hobo) collection, Spring-Summer 1983
Sold for £1,235
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 345 - A Westwood/McLaren gold velvet ensemble, 'Punkature' collection, Spring-Summer 1983
Sold for £1,690
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 346 - A Westwood/McLaren shirt and shorts ensemble, 'Punkature' collection, Spring-Summer 1983
Sold for £845
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 353 - A Westwood/McLaren brown cotton skirt, 'Savage' collection, Spring-Summer 1982
Sold for £364
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 354 - A Vivienne Westwood Squiggle print ensemble, 'Pirate' collection, Autumn-Winter 1981-82
Sold for £1,690
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 355 - A Westwood/McLaren printed cotton shirt/smock, 'Pirate' collection, Autumn-Winter 1981-82
Sold for £1,105
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 356 - Pete Burns' Westwood/McLaren Seditionaries 'Piss Marilyn' baby doll dress, circa 1979
Sold for £2,600
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 357 - A Westwood/McLaren Seditionaries grey and ivory cotton and wool ensemble, circa 1977
Sold for £2,080
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 358 - A rare Westwood/McLaren Seditionaries red wool ensemble, 1977
Sold for £4,160
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 360 - A pair of Westwood/McLaren Seditionaries red jumbo cord 'Donkey' trousers, circa 1977
Sold for £910
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 361 - A rare pair of Westwood/McLaren Sex metal genitalia earring pendants, 1976
Sold for £780
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 362 - A Westwood/McLaren SEX leather and wool bondage ensemble. circa 1975
Sold for £2,275
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 363 - A pair of rare Westwood/McLaren SEX gold leather 'Lancas Booties', circa 1975
Sold for £1,430
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 364 - A Patrick Kelly wool and plastic 'Button Heart' dress, Autumn-Winter 1986-87
Sold for £22,100
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 365 - A Thierry Mugler black velvet suit, circa 1993
Sold for £2,210
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 366 - A Thierry Mugler pink satin cocktail dress, Autumn-Winter 1982-83
Sold for £1,170
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 367 - A Thierry Mugler black velvet 'Vampire' dress, Autumn-Winter 1990-91
Sold for £4,160
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 368 - A Gianni Versace black oroton ensemble, circa 1984
Sold for £2,080
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 371 - § An Yves Saint Laurent haute couture jacket, Autumn-Winter 1994-95
Sold for £1,300
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 372 - § An Yves Saint Laurent haute couture black faille cocktail dress, Spring-Summer 1990
Sold for £6,500
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 373 - An Yves Saint Laurent embellished purple velvet jacket, circa 1990
Sold for £1,430
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 376 - § An Yves Saint Laurent haute couture evening gown 1985-86
Sold for £975
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 380 - § An Yves Saint Laurent haute couture floral taffeta evening gown, Spring-Summer 1983
Sold for £3,900
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 381 - § An Yves Saint Laurent haute couture black mesh and velvet evening gown, circa 1983
Sold for £2,340
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 384 - § An Yves Saint Laurent haute couture black guipure evening gown, early 1980s
Sold for £1,170
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
