Kerry Taylor Auctions proudly presents Passion for Fashion, an extraordinary sale of museum-quality couture, avant-garde masterpieces, and historic garments. This season’s catalogue is a celebration of fashion history and artistry.
Leigh Bowery (1961–1994) was a groundbreaking performance artist, fashion designer, and club icon whose provocative and surreal creations challenged conventional ideas of beauty, gender, and identity. Known for his flamboyant costumes, extreme body modifications, and theatrical persona, Bowery became a central figure in London’s underground scene during the 1980s and early 1990s, particularly in relation to Avante Garde nightclub Taboo.
While Leigh did make some fashions to sell, he never did so in great quantity, for, as Boy George commented, “anyone who wore them simply ended up looking like Leigh”. It is, therefore, extraordinary to be offering 7 lots by the avant-garde designer, including 4 eye-catching outfits from his personal wardrobe.
Josephine Baker (1906–1975) was an American-born French entertainer, activist, and style icon who became one of the most celebrated performers of the 20th century. Rising to fame in 1920s Paris with her daring dance routines and charismatic stage presence, Baker broke racial barriers and redefined notions of glamour and freedom. Beyond her artistic achievements, she was a committed civil rights activist and served as a spy for the French Resistance during World War II.
Her legacy endures as a symbol of resilience, artistry, and social progress. We are therefore delighted to offer 8 ensembles from Baker’s wardrobe, including several dazzling stage-worn costumes, and some of her customised early Jean Dessès haute couture designs.
Alexander McQueen designs are a firm favourite here at Kerry Taylor auctions. But there are three lots that stand out in this sale: A sequined corset gown from the ‘Deliverance’ collection, which appears to fall off the body with tragic elegance – on the runway the model was seen collapsed in the arms of her dancing partner before helplessly being dragged off stage. A gorgeous degradé fuchsia and purple kimono from the ‘La Dame Bleue’ collection, with exquisite trailing sleeve panels that recall wings – a central motif of the show. The ensemble is completed with the rare matching shoes and belt, making it a truly museum-worthy look. And, finally, a dazzling gold sequined dress from the ‘Witches of Salem’ collection, formed with intricate patterns of paillettes that follow and accentuate the lines of the body.
Several of the McQueen pieces on offer are made all the more special as they come from the personal collection of Lee’s muse Annabelle Nielson, including several rare photographs of the designer from her personal archive.
Early Margiela pieces remain extremely difficult to source, as few pieces from the hugely influential formative shows were ever sold. However, in this sale we have several examples, including extraordinary full ensembles from the highly revered Spring-Summer 1990 show, that have come directly from the wardrobe of a runway model who wore them at the time.
There are several showstopping John Galliano ensembles on offer in this sale. The ‘Clam’ dress from Spring-Summer 1988 stands out for its unquestionable beauty and technical prowess, with the delicate pleats and curves of the skirt recalling the age rings found on the inside of seashells. It made such an impact at the time that 15 years later, Alexander McQueen was inspired to create his own version of it for his shipwreck-themed ‘Irere’ collection in 2003. Galliano himself would revisit the design in Spring-Summer 1995 and alluded to it in his Christian Dior haute couture show, ‘Pin-Up’ Spring-Summer 2007.
Other important pieces from this period include rare dresses and separates from collections such as ‘Fallen Angels’ and ‘The Ludic Game’, as well as important ensembles from ‘The Rose’, complete with their rare-to-find headpieces. The auction also offers an array of sensual designs from the 1990s and 2000s, spanning Galliano’s own label and his tenure at Christian Dior. These bias-cut silhouettes and lavishly embellished gowns remain as striking and wearable today as when they first graced the runway.
This season’s sale boasts an eclectic array of costume jewellery, from iconic runway pieces to rare avant-garde treasures. From Chanel, there are important mid-century designs from Goossens and Gripoix, including a fantastic multicoloured beaded necklace, along with playful designs from the 1980s, such as earrings in the form of cherubs, clothes hangers or even perfume bottles.
One standout is arguably the most legendary accessory of the 1990s: the Chanel Gladiator belt. Immortalised in the image of Linda Evangelista for Chanel’s Nouvelle Rapper show—draped in gold with the belt taking centre stage—it epitomises a fearless era of fashion that transformed subcultural motifs into objets d’art.
Equally provocative is an exceptionally rare set of Westwood/McLaren pendant earrings, dated 1976. These miniature, anatomically inspired forms shocked audiences then, and may still today, perfectly encapsulating the rebellious spirit of the boutique’s infamous theme: SEX.
For those seeking pure elegance, the auction includes a glamorous selection of Madame Grès jewellery, many of which were lent to the Metropolitan Museum of Art for their 1994 retrospective exhibition, and perfectly encapsulate the timeless elegance for which she was known.
The Japanese section features several pivotal early designs by Rei Kawakubo for Comme des Garçons. Characterised by voluminous silhouettes, asymmetric tailoring, and deliberately distressed fabrics, these pieces embody the radical aesthetic that defined Kawakubo’s ground-breaking Paris shows and reshaped global fashion in the 1980s. Beyond that, there are more modern designs from the lauded ‘Body Meets Dress…Dress Meets Body collection’ Spring-Summer 1997, as well as important ensembles from Yohji Yamamoto and Issey Miyake.
With so many rare and important lots on offer it is difficult to choose a favourite. But don’t miss your chance to own a piece of fashion history!
Lot 388 - § An Yves Saint Laurent haute couture black velvet evening coat/cape circa 1980
Sold for £4,680
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 389 - An Yves Saint Laurent black velvet and taffeta dress, circa 1980
Sold for £1,170
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 390 - An Yves Saint Laurent black velvet and purple taffeta evening gown, circa 1980
Sold for £845
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 393 - A Christian Dior by Marc Bohan evening gown, 1980s
Sold for £7,150
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 394 - A Valentino Garavani haute couture 'le Smoking' ensemble, probably Autumn-Winter 1985-86
Sold for £845
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 395 - A Valentino Garavani haute couture sequined cocktail ensemble, Autumn-Winter 1985-86
Sold for £1,040
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 396 - A Valentino Garavani haute couture beaded grey wool cocktail suit, 1984
Sold for £520
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 397 - A Valentino Garavani haute couture beaded ivory linen cocktail ensemble, 1984-85
Sold for £780
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 398 - A Valentino haute couture ball gown, Autumn-Winter 1979-80
Sold for £4,160
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 399 - An haute couture rose-pink taffeta evening gown, 1980s
Sold for £585
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 401 - A Pierre Balmain haute couture black polka-dot damask silk evening gown, 1980s
Sold for £1,300
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 403 - A Paco Rabanne haute couture beaded ensemble, Spring-Summer 1988
Sold for £2,600
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 404 - A Paco Rabanne haute couture velvet and metal evening gown, Autumn-Winter 1988-89
Sold for £1,170
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 405 - A Paco Rabanne leather and metal link clutch bag, late 1960s-early 1970s
Sold for £468
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 410 - An early Zandra Rhodes 'Knitted Circle' printed silk chiffon gown, 1969
Sold for £2,210
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 412 - A special order Zandra Rhodes printed silk satin and chiffon cocktail dress, 1977
Sold for £1,300
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 414 - A Zandra Rhodes printed chiffon dress, 1975
Sold for £780
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 415 - A special order Zandra Rhodes printed silk chiffon ballgown, 1974
Sold for £4,940
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 417 - A Zandra Rhodes white chiffon bridal gown, 'The Shell' collection, Autumn-Winter 1973-74
Sold for £1,690
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 419 - An early Zandra Rhodes printed chiffon evening ensemble, 1970
Sold for £1,300
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 421 - A Swanky Modes black lycra and nylon 'Amorphous' dress, circa 1978
Sold for £715
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 422 - A fine Thea Porter printed ivory muslin abaya dress, 1970s
Sold for £1,235
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 423 - A Thea Porter silk ikat dress, 1970s
Sold for £715
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 424 - A Thea Porter tiered printed chiffon evening gown, mid 1970s
Sold for £1,040
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 425 - A Thea Porter saffron-yellow silk jacket, 1970s
Sold for £468
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 426 - A Thea Porter floral chiffon 'Faye' dress, 1970s
Sold for £715
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 427 - A Thea Porter blue and white printed chiffon 'Gypsy' dress, circa 1970
Sold for £975
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 428 - A Thea Porter embroidered gown, circa 1970
Sold for £780
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 429 - A Thea Porter butterfly print chiffon 'Gypsy' dress and scarf, 1970
Sold for £2,600
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 430 - A Thea Porter printed green chiffon 'Gypsy' dress, 1969-70
Sold for £1,235
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 431 - An Ossie Clark/Celia Birtwell printed crêpe dress, c1973
Sold for £598
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 432 - An Ossie Clark/ Celia Birtwell 'Pretty Woman' print smock dress, 1970s
Sold for £598
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 433 - An Ossie Clark/ Celia Birtwell printed marocain maxi dress, mid 1970s
Sold for £494
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 434 - An Ossie Clark moss crêpe 'Heavenly Twins' dress, 1970
Sold for £1,105
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 435 - A Bill Gibb green and blue tartan wool ensemble, circa 1977
Sold for £364
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 436 - A Bill Gibb for Baccarat embellished cream dress, circa 1970
Sold for £715
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 437 - A Biba orange and brown wool tweed swing coat, circa 1970
Sold for £520
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 438 - A Biba pink logo-lace dress, circa 1970
Sold for £845
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 439 - A Biba brocaded black and white brocaded maxi gilet, circa 1969
Sold for £598
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 441 - A Pierre Cardin 'Pop Art' skirt, Autumn-Winter 1970-71
Sold for £845
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 442 - An André Courrèges black crêpe maxi dress with bows, circa 1970
Sold for £1,235
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 443 - An André Courrèges black wool maxi dress, 1969-70
Sold for £468
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 444 - A Louis Feraud couture beaded and printed chiffon evening gown, 1970s
Sold for £1,040
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 445 - § An Yves Saint Laurent haute couture black tulle evening gown, late 1970s-early 1980s
Sold for £1,690
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 447 - § An Yves Saint Laurent haute couture sequined blouse, Autumn-Winter 1973-74
Sold for £494
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 448 - An Yves Saint Laurent beaded cardigan, circa 1973
Sold for £7,800
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 449 - An Yves Saint Laurent wool day ensemble, probably Autumn-Winter 1971-72
Sold for £650
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 450 - A Nina Ricci haute couture printed velvet coat, 1970s
Sold for £780
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 451 - A Givenchy haute couture green and white chiné taffeta gown, 1970s
Sold for £1,040
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 452 - A brown velvet cloak, worn by Raquel Welch in 'The Prince and the Pauper' (1977)
Sold for £715
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 454 - A Cecil Beaton costume design sketch for 'On a Clear Day You Can See Forever', 1970
Sold for £715
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 455 - A Cecil Beaton costume design sketch for 'My Fair Lady', 1964
Sold for £1,430
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 456 - A Cecil Beaton costume design sketch for 'On a Clear Day You Can See Forever', 1970
Sold for £715
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 457 - Sharon Tate's brown suede jacket, late 1960s
Sold for £1,040
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 460 - Josephine Baker's beaded chiffon and mesh jumpsuit, circa 1964
Sold for £4,160
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 461 - Josephine Baker's blue sequined stage costume, circa 1963
Sold for £4,420
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 462 - Josephine Baker's beaded and sequined white silk satin coat, 1960s
Sold for £4,420
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 463 - Josephine Baker's beaded and sequined bra, 1950s-60s
Sold for £1,820
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 464 - Josephine Baker's embellished pink velvet cape, 1950s-60s
Sold for £3,900
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 465 - Josephine Baker's early Jean Dessès haute couture ivory satin evening dress, circa 1939
Sold for £1,950
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 466 - Josephine Baker's early Jean Dessès haute couture purple velvet cape, circa 1939
Sold for £4,680
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 467 - Josephine Baker's embellished mesh stage costume, circa 1930
Sold for £28,600
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 468 - Adelaide Hall's embellished mustard-yellow crêpe ensemble, 1944
Sold for £416
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 469 - A Gabrielle Chanel haute couture fringed flapper-style cocktail dress, 1969
Sold for £3,900
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 470 - A Balenciaga haute couture floral silk cocktail dress, circa 1963
Sold for £5,200
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 471 - A Balenciaga haute couture embellished red silk jacket, circa 1960
Sold for £1,105
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 472 - An Hermès red wool coat, circa 1966
Sold for £2,080
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 473 - A Pierre Balmain haute couture black wool coat, circa 1960
Sold for £1,170
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 474 - A Christian Dior New York brown marabou feather jacket, early 1970s
Sold for £845
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 475 - A Christian Dior New York black silk satin evening gown, circa 1960
Sold for £845
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 476 - A Christian Dior haute couture by Marc Bohan cocktail dress, circa 1968
Sold for £2,600
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 480 - A rare pair of Roger Vivier black satin 'Comma' or 'Virgule' heeled shoes, 1963
Sold for £7,800
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 481 - A Jeanne Lanvin by Antonio Castillo black and cream organza evening gown, circa 1960
Sold for £1,235
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
