Kerry Taylor Auctions proudly presents Passion for Fashion, an extraordinary sale of museum-quality couture, avant-garde masterpieces, and historic garments. This season’s catalogue is a celebration of fashion history and artistry.
Leigh Bowery (1961–1994) was a groundbreaking performance artist, fashion designer, and club icon whose provocative and surreal creations challenged conventional ideas of beauty, gender, and identity. Known for his flamboyant costumes, extreme body modifications, and theatrical persona, Bowery became a central figure in London’s underground scene during the 1980s and early 1990s, particularly in relation to Avante Garde nightclub Taboo.
While Leigh did make some fashions to sell, he never did so in great quantity, for, as Boy George commented, “anyone who wore them simply ended up looking like Leigh”. It is, therefore, extraordinary to be offering 7 lots by the avant-garde designer, including 4 eye-catching outfits from his personal wardrobe.
Josephine Baker (1906–1975) was an American-born French entertainer, activist, and style icon who became one of the most celebrated performers of the 20th century. Rising to fame in 1920s Paris with her daring dance routines and charismatic stage presence, Baker broke racial barriers and redefined notions of glamour and freedom. Beyond her artistic achievements, she was a committed civil rights activist and served as a spy for the French Resistance during World War II.
Her legacy endures as a symbol of resilience, artistry, and social progress. We are therefore delighted to offer 8 ensembles from Baker’s wardrobe, including several dazzling stage-worn costumes, and some of her customised early Jean Dessès haute couture designs.
Alexander McQueen designs are a firm favourite here at Kerry Taylor auctions. But there are three lots that stand out in this sale: A sequined corset gown from the ‘Deliverance’ collection, which appears to fall off the body with tragic elegance – on the runway the model was seen collapsed in the arms of her dancing partner before helplessly being dragged off stage. A gorgeous degradé fuchsia and purple kimono from the ‘La Dame Bleue’ collection, with exquisite trailing sleeve panels that recall wings – a central motif of the show. The ensemble is completed with the rare matching shoes and belt, making it a truly museum-worthy look. And, finally, a dazzling gold sequined dress from the ‘Witches of Salem’ collection, formed with intricate patterns of paillettes that follow and accentuate the lines of the body.
Several of the McQueen pieces on offer are made all the more special as they come from the personal collection of Lee’s muse Annabelle Nielson, including several rare photographs of the designer from her personal archive.
Early Margiela pieces remain extremely difficult to source, as few pieces from the hugely influential formative shows were ever sold. However, in this sale we have several examples, including extraordinary full ensembles from the highly revered Spring-Summer 1990 show, that have come directly from the wardrobe of a runway model who wore them at the time.
There are several showstopping John Galliano ensembles on offer in this sale. The ‘Clam’ dress from Spring-Summer 1988 stands out for its unquestionable beauty and technical prowess, with the delicate pleats and curves of the skirt recalling the age rings found on the inside of seashells. It made such an impact at the time that 15 years later, Alexander McQueen was inspired to create his own version of it for his shipwreck-themed ‘Irere’ collection in 2003. Galliano himself would revisit the design in Spring-Summer 1995 and alluded to it in his Christian Dior haute couture show, ‘Pin-Up’ Spring-Summer 2007.
Other important pieces from this period include rare dresses and separates from collections such as ‘Fallen Angels’ and ‘The Ludic Game’, as well as important ensembles from ‘The Rose’, complete with their rare-to-find headpieces. The auction also offers an array of sensual designs from the 1990s and 2000s, spanning Galliano’s own label and his tenure at Christian Dior. These bias-cut silhouettes and lavishly embellished gowns remain as striking and wearable today as when they first graced the runway.
This season’s sale boasts an eclectic array of costume jewellery, from iconic runway pieces to rare avant-garde treasures. From Chanel, there are important mid-century designs from Goossens and Gripoix, including a fantastic multicoloured beaded necklace, along with playful designs from the 1980s, such as earrings in the form of cherubs, clothes hangers or even perfume bottles.
One standout is arguably the most legendary accessory of the 1990s: the Chanel Gladiator belt. Immortalised in the image of Linda Evangelista for Chanel’s Nouvelle Rapper show—draped in gold with the belt taking centre stage—it epitomises a fearless era of fashion that transformed subcultural motifs into objets d’art.
Equally provocative is an exceptionally rare set of Westwood/McLaren pendant earrings, dated 1976. These miniature, anatomically inspired forms shocked audiences then, and may still today, perfectly encapsulating the rebellious spirit of the boutique’s infamous theme: SEX.
For those seeking pure elegance, the auction includes a glamorous selection of Madame Grès jewellery, many of which were lent to the Metropolitan Museum of Art for their 1994 retrospective exhibition, and perfectly encapsulate the timeless elegance for which she was known.
The Japanese section features several pivotal early designs by Rei Kawakubo for Comme des Garçons. Characterised by voluminous silhouettes, asymmetric tailoring, and deliberately distressed fabrics, these pieces embody the radical aesthetic that defined Kawakubo’s ground-breaking Paris shows and reshaped global fashion in the 1980s. Beyond that, there are more modern designs from the lauded ‘Body Meets Dress…Dress Meets Body collection’ Spring-Summer 1997, as well as important ensembles from Yohji Yamamoto and Issey Miyake.
With so many rare and important lots on offer it is difficult to choose a favourite. But don’t miss your chance to own a piece of fashion history!
Lot 483 - A Madame Grès haute couture shot pink/champagne silk taffeta evening gown, 1960s
Sold for £2,860
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 484 - A Pierre Cardin suede and leather dress, 1970
Sold for £845
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 485 - A Pierre Cardin cream wool and black vinyl ensemble, 1969
Sold for £1,690
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 488 - A Fontana Sisters 'Moon Landing' mini-dress, 1969
Sold for £1,560
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 489 - A Christian Dior London black silk faille cocktail dress, circa 1959
Sold for £1,170
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 490 - A Christian Dior New York black and blue checked silk suit, late 1950s-early 1960s
Sold for £520
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 490A - A Christian Dior New York aubergine-purple faille dress, circa 1958
Sold for £780
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 491 - A Christian Dior New York taupe wool-silk blend suit, late 1950s
Sold for £910
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 492A - A pair of Christian Dior by Roger Vivier gold brocade shoes, circa 1957
Sold for £1,560
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 493 - A Christian Dior floral silk faille cocktail dress, circa 1955
Sold for £1,040
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 494 - A Christian Dior haute couture embroidered ball gown, circa 1955
Sold for £8,450
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 495 - A Christian Dior haute couture ivory linen dress, 'Muget line', Spring-Summer 1954
Sold for £1,300
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 496 - A Christian Dior black faille ballgown, circa 1953
Sold for £1,820
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 497 - A Christian Dior London grey wool dress, circa 1953
Sold for £1,560
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 498 - A Christian Dior New York polka dot taffeta ensemble, early 1950s
Sold for £9,360
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 499 - A Christian Dior black silk moiré faille cocktail dress, circa 1952
Sold for £1,170
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 500 - A Christian Dior haute couture black silk cocktail dress, probably Autumn-Winter 1951-52
Sold for £7,800
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 501 - A Pierre Balmain haute couture black silk evening coat/opera cloak, early 1950s
Sold for £1,560
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 502 - A Pierre Balmain haute couture black velvet 'Holly' dress, 1955
Sold for £1,300
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 503 - A Madame Grès haute couture day coat, Autumn-Winter 1950-51
Sold for £1,560
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 504 - A Madame Grès haute couture black paper taffeta cocktail dress, circa 1950
Sold for £4,420
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 505 - A Jean Dessès grey wool suit, circa 1952
Sold for £780
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 507 - A Maggy Rouff haute couture embellished cream evening gown, mid-1950s
Sold for £390
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 508 - A Maggy Rouff haute couture evening gown, circa 1940
Sold for £1,430
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 510 - A black bugle beaded evening jacket attributed to Elsa Schiaparelli, Autumn-Winter 1938-39
Sold for £910
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 511 - An Elsa Schiaparelli brass and glass necklace, 1940s
Sold for £845
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 512 - A rare Salvador Dali for Schiaparelli 'Telephone Dial' compact, 1935
Sold for £2,210
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 513 - A pair of rare Salvatore Ferragamo cork-soled platform shoes, 1938
Sold for £18,200
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 514 - A Maggy Rouff haute couture black velvet ensemble, late 1930s
Sold for £4,160
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 515 - A Maggy Rouff haute couture ivory silk organza evening gown, late 1930s
Sold for £4,160
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 516 - An haute couture ivory chiffon evening gown, possibly Chanel, circa 1931
Sold for £1,170
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 519 - A Mariano Fortuny stencilled velvet evening coat, 1920-30
Sold for £2,340
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 520 - A Maria Gallenga stencilled ombré velvet opera coat, 1920s
Sold for £1,560
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 521 - A stencilled black velvet opera coat, probably by Maria Gallenga, 1920s
Sold for £1,040
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 522 - A Paul Poiret for Denise Poiret unfinished bodice, circa 1920
Sold for £390
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 523 - A Paul Poiret beaded green brushed wool jacket, 1915-20
Sold for £1,560
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 525 - A pink beaded flapper dress, circa 1925
Sold for £520
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 526 - A rare Jeanne Lanvin haute couture robe de style, Autumn-Winter 1926-27
Sold for £32,500
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 527 - A Jeanne Lanvin beaded black silk evening dress, Summer 1921
Sold for £1,430
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 528 - An haute couture knitted jersey blouse, attributed to Gabrielle Chanel, Spring-Summer 1927
Sold for £23,400
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 529 - A checked tweed and jersey day/sports ensemble, attributed to Gabrielle Chanel, 1926-27
Sold for £4,940
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 531 - A Rouvier beaded black silk evening gown, circa 1910
Sold for £364
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 532 - A Babani embroidered purple velvet dress, circa 1918
Sold for £3,120
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 533 - A rare Babani embroidered black silk 'Niu Tsé' jacket, circa 1906
Sold for £2,470
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 534 - A rare Babani embroidered purple silk 'Niu Tsé' jacket, circa 1906
Sold for £3,640
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 535 - A rare Jeanne Paquin ivory taffeta evening gown, circa 1903
Sold for £715
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 536 - A Callot Soeurs brown silk opera cloak, circa 1900
Sold for £520
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 537 - A fine Charles Frederick Worth capelet circa 1893
Sold for £715
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 538 - A Charles Frederik Worth gold and black voided velvet visite and matching muff, circa 1880
Sold for £1,040
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 541 - A Provençal printed cotton cloak, circa 1830
Sold for £715
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 542 - A burgundy leno and satin day dress, circa 1820
Sold for £780
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 544 - A fine and rare pair of embroidered shoes, probably English, 1760-70
Sold for £7,150
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 546 - An appliquéd silk Herald’s tabard, 1707-14, belonging to William Hesketh
Sold for £20,800
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
