The Male Sale | London

The Male Sale | London

Date: 14th Oct, 2025 14:00
Catalogue: Download PDF catalogue
Lots: 185
 
We’re delighted to unveil the latest edition of our celebrated Male Sale, featuring 185 exceptional lots that span centuries of menswear - from the revolutionary fervour of 18th-century France to the cutting-edge creativity of recent catwalks.
 
The sale opens with selections from The Wardrobe of an Elegant Gentleman, whose refined taste is reflected superb Chanel by Karl Lagerfeld items, as worn by male models on the runway. These pieces, tailored for a 36–38in chest, offer a rare opportunity to acquire garments that would equally suit a male or female figure.
 
Among the contemporary highlights is a striking ensemble from Louis Vuitton’s Autumn-Winter 2023–24 collection, designed by Colm Dillane - also known as KidSuper. As interim creative director before Pharrell Williams, Dillane crafted a patchwork cotton look inspired by archival LV designs and the visual chaos of a teenager’s bedroom. This made-to-order piece, still available via Louis Vuitton, includes trousers that originally retailed for $50,000. Equally compelling is a parka from Raf Simons’ seminal Closer collection (Autumn-Winter 2003–04), featuring hand-painted details by graphic designer Peter Saville. The coat incorporates Saville’s iconic artwork for New Order’s Power, Corruption & Lies album, forming a deeply personal homage to Simons’ early creative influences and his interdisciplinary approach to fashion.
 
The sale also includes runway-documented masterpieces from Alexander McQueen, notably from his Dante (AW 1996–97) and Joan (AW 1998–99) collections. These garments exemplify the dark creativity and unparalleled tailoring of one of the greatest designers of the contemporary era.
 
Vivienne Westwood and Malcolm McLaren’s collaborative legacy is richly represented, from early Let it Rock and Seditionaries pieces to landmark ensembles from the 1980s: Pirates, Savage, Nostalgia of Mud, Punkature, Witches, and Hypnos. These works chart Britain’s cultural evolution from Teddy Boys to Punk and New Romanticism, offering collectors a vivid narrative of subcultural style and in many cases, a rare opportunity to acquire complete looks as seen on the runway.
 
Further highlights include surrealist designs by Richard James. His ‘Rose’ jackets drew inspiration from Cecil Beaton’s personal style, and the romantic design of Beaton’s own 18th-century and surrealist style fancy dress jacket (held in the V&A, accession no. T.47-1997). Beaton wore the jacket to attend a ‘fête champêtre’ he hosted at his country house, Ashcombe, in 1937. He was famously photographed by Gordon Anthony wearing it, gazing into a flower-framed mirror with a rabbit mask on the back of his head.
 
The expressive spirit of the 1960s is captured in a Cockell & Johnson blazer, screen-printed with pink-heeled legs by Jane Wentworth and Susan Saunders for O.K. Textiles, and a whimsical Dandie Fashions blazer featuring cartoon animals in sporting poses. Dandie Fashions, a beacon of Swinging London, famously dressed The Rolling Stones, The Who, and The Beatles - who acquired the shop after only 15 months in business and transformed it into Apple Boutique, making this lot a particularly rare piece of cultural history.
 
Among the sale’s most distinguished offerings is a rare silk achkan, custom-made circa 1934 for Maharaja Kameshwar Singh Bahadur. A prominent ruler from the storied lineage of zamindars and sovereigns of Mithila and the Darbhanga district in Bihar, the Maharaja reigned from 1929 until Indian independence in 1947. During this period, his expansive business ventures elevated him to become the third wealthiest man in India. The achkan itself is a testament to the opulence of pre-independence Indian aristocracy; crafted from exceptional Art Deco silk and exemplifying a luxurious fusion of Western textile innovation with Indian sartorial tradition.
 
The sale also features a remarkable selection of historical menswear, including finely woven and embroidered tailcoats and waistcoats from the 18th and 19th centuries. Of particular note is a rare Incroyables coat dating to the French Revolution, circa 1795. Rendered in a bold bottle-green hue and adorned with exaggerated lapels, the garment defies the austerity of post-revolutionary fashion. It stands as a symbol of sartorial rebellion; an emblem of the flamboyant subculture that challenged political and aesthetic norms, and helped usher in a new era of expressive dress.
 
This sale is not merely a showcase of menswear; it is a curated archive of style, subversion, and craftsmanship. We invite you to explore the full catalogue and discover pieces that speak to fashion’s enduring dialogue between past and present.
 
 
 
For more information on how to bid, please click here. Live bidding is possible via our website on sale day. In order to bid online, please ensure you have created an account with us and that your account is enabled for live bidding - new clients will need to email us a form of photo ID, proof of address and paid invoices from other auction houses where appropriate. Once you have created an account and have been approved to bid, please click the purple 'Pre-register for live bidding' button which will appear on the online catalogue. You then need to accept the terms and conditions to proceed. On the day of the sale, a button marked 'Bid live' will appear on the website and clicking this will allow you to access the live bidding platform. Please note that there is an additional 1.5% charge plus VAT for any lots won via our online bidding platform. Please also note that online bidding is automatically capped at £6,000 in total - if you envisage that you will exceed this amount, please contact us directly so we can remove the bidding cap - we may ask for further information from you before doing this.
 
Clients who prefer to bid via Invaluable still have this option and can access the catalogue here. Please note the charge for bidding online via the Invaluable platform is 3% plus VAT. We strongly advise that you register to bid in advance of the auction and not the day of, as we cannot guarantee approval once the auction has begun. Clients who prefer to bid via Drouot still have this option and can access the catalogue here. Please note the charge for bidding online via the Drouot platform is 1.5% plus VAT. We strongly advise that you register to bid in advance of the auction and not the day of, as we cannot guarantee approval once the auction has begun.
 

Lot 6 - A group of luxury accessories by Chanel, Dior and others, 2000s-2010s

Sold for £442

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 12 - Two John Galliano by Bill Gaytten men's jackets, circa 2012

Sold for £234

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 14 - A Gucci by Tom Ford men's tan lambskin suit, Spring-Summer 2000

Sold for £910

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 23 - An Alexander McQueen men's marbling print coat, circa 1997

Sold for £5,720

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 43 - A Vivienne Westwood Navajo-print cotton jersey shirt, circa 1990

Sold for £572

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 52 - A Westwood/McLaren dishcloth ensemble, circa 1982

Sold for £390

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 69 - Four Vivienne Westwood men's ties, 1980s-90s

Sold for £975

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 73 - A Vivienne Westwood men's black pinstriped wool suit, circa 1992

Sold for £416

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 75 - A group of Vivienne Westwood men's wool jackets and waistcoats, 1990s

Sold for £494

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 76 - Seven Vivienne Westwood cotton tops, 1990s

Sold for £598

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 77 - A Vivienne Westwood men's grey wool three-piece suit, circa 1994

Sold for £494

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 79 - A Vivienne Westwood men's black velvet jacket, circa 1995

Sold for £247

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 80 - A Vivienne Westwood men's black velvet suit, circa 1996

Sold for £715

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 83 - A group of Vivienne Westwood men's suits and coats, 1990s-2010s

Sold for £2,470

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 84 - A group of Vivienne Westwood men's suits and coats, 1990s-2000s

Sold for £1,430

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 85 - A group of Vivienne Westwood men's suits and coats, 1990s-2010s

Sold for £1,300

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 86 - A group of Vivienne Westwood men's separates, 2000s

Sold for £845

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 87 - A group of Vivienne Westwood men's coats and jackets, 1990s-2000s

Sold for £975

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 96 - A Jean Paul Gaultier stainless steel lighter necklace, circa 1987

Sold for £234

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)