Kerry Taylor Auctions is proud to present The Male Sale, headlined by an extraordinary offering: twenty‑one garments from the personal wardrobe of Lee Alexander McQueen,
New Venue:
KTA at the Printworks
230 Long Ln
London SE1 4QA
Alexander McQueen’s impact on fashion and culture is profound, and the opportunity to offer pieces from his personal wardrobe is both exceptional and deeply significant. McQueen began his career as a tailor’s apprentice on London’s Savile Row, and the sharply cut silhouettes he mastered there remained central to the collections of his namesake label. It is especially meaningful, then, to offer a selection so richly comprised of suits and blazers; garments that reflect both his roots and his lifelong dedication to precision tailoring.
Renowned for his meticulous nature, McQueen chose what he wore with great discernment. Alongside pieces from his own house, his wardrobe included designs by some of the most celebrated names in fashion, among them Gucci by Tom Ford, Maison Martin Margiela, Prada, Hermès under Véronique Nichanian, Ralph Lauren, Helmut Lang, and Carol Christian Poell.
McQueen was photographed wearing several of these ensembles. Most notably, his white double‑breasted Gucci/Tom Ford suit from the Spring–Summer 2003 collection appears in multiple iconic images. He famously donned it to accept the “International Award” at the 2003 CFDA Awards in New York; an event dubbed “The Fashion Oscars” by Vogue. He later wore the suit during his Autumn–Winter 2004–05 “Pantheon as Lecum” show, both on the runway and backstage. In one memorable photograph, McQueen stands beside Kate Moss smoking a cigarette; the McQueen estate has confirmed that the small burn marks on the cuff were indeed caused by the British supermodel.
Fashion has always mirrored the culture it inhabits, but it is rare for it to reveal such intimate stories about a figure as celebrated yet enigmatic as Lee Alexander McQueen. This auction represents a once‑in‑a‑lifetime opportunity to acquire a piece of contemporary cultural history and to honour the legacy of one of Britain’s most visionary designers.
Beyond the McQueen collection, The Male Sale features an exceptional range of rare and important menswear dating from 2020-1770.
We have on offer the largest collection of Carol Christian Poell ever presented at auction (63 lots). Poell is one of the most enigmatic and influential figures in avant‑garde menswear. His work is defined by radical material experimentation, uncompromising craftsmanship, and an almost total rejection of the conventional fashion system. He is known for pioneering techniques such as object‑dyeing and object-tanning, bonded seams, and highly experimental treatments of leather and textiles, approaches often described as surgical or anatomical in precision. Operating from near‑complete secrecy in his Milan studio, Poell releases work only on his own terms, cultivating a cult global following drawn to his rigorous philosophy, artisanal production, and deeply conceptual approach to clothing; making such a grand offering an incredibly rare opportunity.
Other important and radical designers include Vivienne Westwood and Malcom McLaren, whose rare early pieces from the SEX and Seditionaries boutiques in the 1970s mark a counterpoint to more modern designs from the 2010s and their revolutionary Witches and Notaslgia of Mud collections from the early 1980s
Harking from a similar era, we have three remarkable early works by Christopher Nemeth. Nemeth, one of the founding members of the influential House of Beauty and Culture in London’s Hackney, was incessantly experimental, and his designs blurred the line between couture and the DIY Club Kid aesthetic that was the height of fashion at the time. Few pieces sum this up more concisely than his c.1983 jacket formed of old Post Office letter sacks - an extraordinary marriage of artisanal craftsmanship and ready-made materials. Reflecting on the influence of Nemeth’s work, Kim Jones stated: “People with a highly developed sense of fashion love his work. Kate Moss loves Nemeth, Naomi Campbell was a Nemeth girl”.
And ever-popular in our menswear sales, the inimitable Jean Paul Gaultier is well represented from his most provocative era of the1980s-early 1990s. Included are two full ensembles from his Autumn-Winter 1994 ‘Grand Voyage’ showcase, which incorporate a dizzying array of cultural influences and layering to form a silhouette that is chic, comfortable to wear, and unmistakably Gaultier. Other notable pieces include an unashamedly sexy c.1991 see-through cage jacket, and an early ‘Pegasus’ weave blazer from 1984.
As ever, there are so many fashion grails in the sale that you have to see the catalogue in full to get a proper understanding of the breadth and quality of pieces on offer. This auction and viewing exhibition will be taking place in our new venue: ‘KTA at The Printworks’, which is just over the road from our HQ on Long Lane.
Viewing times
Friday 6 March: 10:00–18:00
Sunday 8 March: 10:00–18:00
Monday 9 March: 10:00–18:00
Venue:
KTA at the Printworks
230 Long Ln
London SE1 4QA
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Lot 1 - A Gucci by Alessandro Michele blue velvet blazer, Spring-Summer 2019
Lot 4 - An early Off-White by Virgil Abloh men's printed black leather jacket, 2013
Lot 5 - A Ralph Lauren men's reversible nylon bomber jacket, circa 2015
Lot 6 - A Vivienne Westwood men's wool and lurex ensemble, Autumn-Winter 2010-11
Lot 8 - Two Vivienne Westwood men's suit ensembles, circa 2009-2012
Lot 9 - A Vivienne Westwood men's wool and cotton ensemble, Autumn-Winter 2009-10
Lot 11 - A group of Vivienne Westwood men's separates, Spring-Summer 2009
Lot 12 - A Vivienne Westwood men's printed cotton 'Clint Eastwood' bomber jacket, circa 2005
Lot 13 - A pair of Vivienne Westwood men's green and white tattersall checked wool trousers, 2000s
Lot 14 - Three Vivienne Westwood printed cotton jersey 'Pirate' shirts, 2000s
Lot 15 - Three Vivienne Westwood squiggle print cotton jersey 'Pirate' shirts, 2000s
Lot 16 - A group of six Vivienne Westwood men's cotton jersey t-shirts, 2000s
Lot 17 - A Vivienne Westwood men's cotton and viscose ensemble, 2000s
Lot 21 - A Final Home by Kosuke Tsumura black nylon 'Survival' suit, circa 1994
Lot 22 - A Yohji Yamamoto men's black wool blazer, Spring-Summer 2003
Lot 23 - A Carol Christian Poell men's garment-dyed grey cotton 'prosthetic' coat, 2010
Lot 24 - A Carol Christian Poell men's black garment-dyed cotton suit, 'Dead End' collection, 2010
Lot 25 - A Carol Christian Poell men's grey cotton 'Self-edge' vest bag, 'Dead End' collection, 2010
Lot 30 - A Carol Christian Poell men's 'Self-edge' blazer and shirt, 'Self-Same' collection, 2009
Lot 32 - A Carol Christian Poell men's cotton ensemble, 'Self-Same' collection, 2009
Lot 34 - A Carol Christian Poell men's white cotton suit, 'Self-Same' collection, 2009
Lot 35 - A Carol Christian Poell men's garment-dyed grey-green polyamide parka, special order 2009
Lot 36 - A Carol Christian Poell men's garment-dyed brown leather jacket, circa 2009
Lot 58 - A Carol Christian Poell men's cotton ensemble, 'U-Turn' collection, Spring-Summer 2006
Lot 62 - A Carol Christian Poell men's grey wool coat, 'On Demand' collection, Autumn-Winter 2005-06
Lot 74 - A Carol Christian Poell men's ivory leather jacket and black wool trousers, 1998-2000
Lot 75 - A fine pair of Carol Christian Poell men's green leather joined-finger gloves, 2000s
Lot 76 - A group of Carol Christian Poell men's shearling gloves, 2000s
Lot 77 - A pair of Carol Christian Poell men's garment-dyed brown leather boots, 2000s
Lot 82 - A pair of Carol Christian Poell men's garment-dyed ivory leather top-zip boots, 2000s
Lot 84 - A pair of Carol Christian Poell men's garment-dyed tan leather folded boots, 2000s
Lot 87 - A rare pair of Layer-0 for Avantindietro_Field men's buried lambskin 'W3' boots, 2011
Lot 89 - A Carpe Diem men's black linen coat and trousers, Spring-Summer 2005
Lot 90 - A Carpe Diem men's black oiled suede jacket, Autumn-Winter 2004-05
Lot 91 - A Carpe Diem men's black self-striped wool suit, Autumn-Winter 2003-04
Lot 92 - A Carpe Diem men's black cotton coat, Autumn-Winter 2002-03
Lot 93 - A Carpe Diem men's leather ensemble, Autumn-Winter 2001-02
Lot 94 - An m.a+ by Maurizio Amadei men's indigo selvedge denim suit, 2000s-2010s
Lot 95 - A Rick Owens men's black leather and cotton ensemble, circa 2009