Kerry Taylor Auctions is proud to present The Male Sale, headlined by an extraordinary offering: twenty‑one garments from the personal wardrobe of Lee Alexander McQueen,
New Venue:
KTA at the Printworks
230 Long Ln
London SE1 4QA
Alexander McQueen’s impact on fashion and culture is profound, and the opportunity to offer pieces from his personal wardrobe is both exceptional and deeply significant. McQueen began his career as a tailor’s apprentice on London’s Savile Row, and the sharply cut silhouettes he mastered there remained central to the collections of his namesake label. It is especially meaningful, then, to offer a selection so richly comprised of suits and blazers; garments that reflect both his roots and his lifelong dedication to precision tailoring.
Renowned for his meticulous nature, McQueen chose what he wore with great discernment. Alongside pieces from his own house, his wardrobe included designs by some of the most celebrated names in fashion, among them Gucci by Tom Ford, Maison Martin Margiela, Prada, Hermès under Véronique Nichanian, Ralph Lauren, Helmut Lang, and Carol Christian Poell.
McQueen was photographed wearing several of these ensembles. Most notably, his white double‑breasted Gucci/Tom Ford suit from the Spring–Summer 2003 collection appears in multiple iconic images. He famously donned it to accept the “International Award” at the 2003 CFDA Awards in New York; an event dubbed “The Fashion Oscars” by Vogue. He later wore the suit during his Autumn–Winter 2004–05 “Pantheon as Lecum” show, both on the runway and backstage. In one memorable photograph, McQueen stands beside Kate Moss smoking a cigarette; the McQueen estate has confirmed that the small burn marks on the cuff were indeed caused by the British supermodel.
Fashion has always mirrored the culture it inhabits, but it is rare for it to reveal such intimate stories about a figure as celebrated yet enigmatic as Lee Alexander McQueen. This auction represents a once‑in‑a‑lifetime opportunity to acquire a piece of contemporary cultural history and to honour the legacy of one of Britain’s most visionary designers.
Beyond the McQueen collection, The Male Sale features an exceptional range of rare and important menswear dating from 2020-1770.
We have on offer the largest collection of Carol Christian Poell ever presented at auction (63 lots). Poell is one of the most enigmatic and influential figures in avant‑garde menswear. His work is defined by radical material experimentation, uncompromising craftsmanship, and an almost total rejection of the conventional fashion system. He is known for pioneering techniques such as object‑dyeing and object-tanning, bonded seams, and highly experimental treatments of leather and textiles, approaches often described as surgical or anatomical in precision. Operating from near‑complete secrecy in his Milan studio, Poell releases work only on his own terms, cultivating a cult global following drawn to his rigorous philosophy, artisanal production, and deeply conceptual approach to clothing; making such a grand offering an incredibly rare opportunity.
Other important and radical designers include Vivienne Westwood and Malcom McLaren, whose rare early pieces from the SEX and Seditionaries boutiques in the 1970s mark a counterpoint to more modern designs from the 2010s and their revolutionary Witches and Notaslgia of Mud collections from the early 1980s
Harking from a similar era, we have three remarkable early works by Christopher Nemeth. Nemeth, one of the founding members of the influential House of Beauty and Culture in London’s Hackney, was incessantly experimental, and his designs blurred the line between couture and the DIY Club Kid aesthetic that was the height of fashion at the time. Few pieces sum this up more concisely than his c.1983 jacket formed of old Post Office letter sacks - an extraordinary marriage of artisanal craftsmanship and ready-made materials. Reflecting on the influence of Nemeth’s work, Kim Jones stated: “People with a highly developed sense of fashion love his work. Kate Moss loves Nemeth, Naomi Campbell was a Nemeth girl”.
And ever-popular in our menswear sales, the inimitable Jean Paul Gaultier is well represented from his most provocative era of the1980s-early 1990s. Included are two full ensembles from his Autumn-Winter 1994 ‘Grand Voyage’ showcase, which incorporate a dizzying array of cultural influences and layering to form a silhouette that is chic, comfortable to wear, and unmistakably Gaultier. Other notable pieces include an unashamedly sexy c.1991 see-through cage jacket, and an early ‘Pegasus’ weave blazer from 1984.
As ever, there are so many fashion grails in the sale that you have to see the catalogue in full to get a proper understanding of the breadth and quality of pieces on offer. This auction and viewing exhibition will be taking place in our new venue: ‘KTA at The Printworks’, which is just over the road from our HQ on Long Lane.
Lot 98 - A Rick Owens men's black ensemble, circa 2009
Sold for £1,560
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 99 - A Rick Owens men's grey and black leather and cotton ensemble, circa 2009
Sold for £910
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 101 - A Maison Martin Margiela men's reversible shearling coat, Autumn-Winter 2006-07
Sold for £1,040
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 102 - A Maison Margiela black cotton canvas bag, Autumn-Winter 2009-10
Sold for £442
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 103 - A Maison Martin Margiela men's cotton and wool ensemble, 2000s
Sold for £975
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 104 - A group of Guidi men's leather goods, 2000s
Sold for £1,040
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 105 - A Paul Harnden men's green tweed, cotton and linen ensemble, 2000s
Sold for £975
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 106 - A Paul Harnden men's grey wool suit, 2000s
Sold for £1,690
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 107 - A Paul Harnden men's suede and cotton ensemble, 2000s
Sold for £1,430
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 108 - A Paul Harnden men's wool and cotton ensemble, 2000s
Sold for £1,040
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 109 - A Paul Harnden men's cotton and wool ensemble, 2000s
Sold for £2,080
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 110 - A Paul Harnden men's cotton and wool ensemble, 2000s
Sold for £2,340
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 111 - A rare pair of Paul Harnden men's voile and newspaper-covered leather Derby shoes, 2000s
Sold for £2,210
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 112 - A rare pair of Paul Harnden men's brocaded silk Derby shoes, 2000s
Sold for £4,160
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 113 - Lee McQueen's Gucci by Tom Ford white viscose suit, Spring-Summer 2003
Sold for £41,600
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 114 - Lee McQueen's Gucci by Tom Ford tan shearling coat, circa 2000
Sold for £2,470
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 115 - Lee McQueen's Gucci by Tom Ford tan calfskin coat, Autumn-Winter 2000-01
Sold for £2,210
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 116 - Lee McQueen's Alexander McQueen blue wool suit, Spring-Summer 2009
Sold for £1,560
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 117 - Lee McQueen's Alexander McQueen grey wool suit, 2008
Sold for £1,560
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 119 - Lee McQueen's Maison Martin Margiela brown suede trench coat, circa 2007
Sold for £2,080
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 120 - Lee McQueen's Maison Martin Margiela wool ensemble, 2008-09
Sold for £1,105
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 121 - Lee McQueen's Prada black polyester suit, circa 2005
Sold for £1,105
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 122 - Lee McQueen's Prada grey mohair-wool blend blazer, Spring-Summer 2006
Sold for £2,210
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 123 - Lee McQueen's Prada grey wool blazer, late 1990s
Sold for £1,235
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 124 - Lee McQueen's Hermès By Véronique Nichanian black wool suit, circa 2005
Sold for £2,860
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 125 - Lee McQueen's Ralph Lauren grey pinstriped brushed wool suit, circa 2007
Sold for £1,560
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 126 - Lee McQueen's Helmut Lang beige silk blazer, circa 2000
Sold for £1,690
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 127 - A pair of Lee McQueen's Alexander McQueen black crocodile-effect winklepickers, 2000s
Sold for £2,860
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 128 - A pair of Lee McQueen's Alexander McQueen green and brown leather Balmoral boots, 2000s
Sold for £1,105
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 129 - A pair of Lee McQueen's Alexander McQueen iridescent green Derby shoes, Spring-Summer 2009
Sold for £2,860
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 132 - A pair of Lee McQueen's Nike Terminator High Supreme QS 'Matagi' trainers, 2009
Sold for £845
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 133 - A pair of Lee McQueen's Carol Christian Poell garment-dyed grey leather boots, 2000s
Sold for £2,210
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 134 - A Craig McDean silver gelatin print of Lee Alexander McQueen, 2002
Sold for £1,820
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 138 - A pair of Jean Paul Gaultier men's leather and wool mariniere trousers, 2000s
Sold for £2,340
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 145 - A rare Jean Paul Gaultier clear vinyl cage jacket, circa 1991
Sold for £3,900
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 149 - A Thierry Mugler black nylon suit, mid-late 1990s
Sold for £546
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 150 - A Thierry Mugler navy blue cotton suit, mid-late 1990s
Sold for £260
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 151 - A Franco Moschino men's printed cotton blazer, Spring-Summer 1995
Sold for £1,560
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 152 - A pair of Dolce & Gabbana men's green patchwork cotton trousers, Autumn-Winter 1993-94
Sold for £572
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 153 - A Paul Smith men's green and black checked wool suit, 1990s
Sold for £91
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 154 - A pair of Vivienne Westwood men's Breanish tweed trousers, circa 1996
Sold for £286
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 156 - A Vivienne Westwood squiggle print cotton jersey 'Pirate' shirt, circa 1990
Sold for £338
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 157 - A pair of Vivienne Westwood men's dark grey wool bondage trousers, late 1990s
Sold for £546
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 161 - Two Richard James men's intarsia knitted merino wool sweaters, circa 1990
Sold for £624
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 162 - A John Galliano printed t-shirt and ephemera, circa 1988
Sold for £598
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 163 - Two John Galliano cotton jersey promotional t-shirts, circa 1989
Sold for £390
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 164 - Two John Galliano cotton jersey promotional t-shirts, circa 1989
Sold for £468
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 166 - A rare Stephen Linard men's black wool ensemble, 'Reluctant Emigres' degree show, 1981
Sold for £3,380
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 167 - An important early Christopher Nemeth 'Postal Sack' jacket, circa 1984
Sold for £5,460
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 168 - A Christopher Nemeth green, beige and brown checked tweed jacket, circa 1984
Sold for £910
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 169 - A Christopher Nemeth checked grey wool coat, circa 1984
Sold for £910
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 170 - A Gerard men's ponyskin and black leather jacket, 1980s
Sold for £520
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 171 - An elaborate customised black leather jacket, circa 1983
Sold for £4,420
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 173 - A Vivienne Westwood men's 'Clint Eastwood' checked taupe bomber jacket, circa 2000
Sold for £975
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 176 - A Westwood/McLaren ink blue wool jacket, 'Witches' collection, Autumn-Winter 1983-84
Sold for £3,380
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 180 - A Westwood/McLaren Seditionaries black terry cloth bum flap, circa 1979
Sold for £338
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 181 - A Westwood/McLaren Seditionaries knitted mohair sweater, circa 1979
Sold for £1,690
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 182 - A Westwood/McLaren Seditionaries red wool top, circa 1979
Sold for £1,430
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 183 - A Westwood/McLaren SEX smoking boys t-shirt, circa 1976
Sold for £1,040
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 184 - A Westwood/McLaren SEX knitted pink mohair sweater, circa 1976
Sold for £4,160
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 185 - A BOY Seditionaries-style printed top and black leather boots, circa 1978
Sold for £364
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 186 - An Hermès men's yellow cotton raincoat, 1970s
Sold for £312
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 187 - A Mr Freedom men's navy velvet suit, 1970s
Sold for £520
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 188 - A Scott Lester printed satin jacket, late 1960s
Sold for £247
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 189 - A Harley Davidson men's black leather biker jacket, 1940s
Sold for £1,105
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 190 - A footman's black wool tailcoat, 1920s-30s
Sold for £195
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 191 - Weetman Dickinson Pearson, 1st Viscount Cowdray's Privy Councillor's uniform circa 1927
Sold for £1,105
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 192 - A Third Class Civil Uniform Levée dress, 1910s
Sold for £780
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)