Kerry Taylor Auctions is delighted to present our inaugural menswear auction: The Male Sale. Comprising 173 lots that span over 250 years of men’s fashion, there is something for gentlemen of every sartorial persuasion.
The 18th century was perhaps the pinnacle of male opulence, and it is easy to understand why with the first lot in the auction: an extravagant sleeved waistcoat ornately brocaded with floral motifs in floss silks and silver threads on sumptuous crimson satin. Or lot 2 - an embroidered waistcoat whose rhythmic foliate sprigs appear to dance on the elegant ivory ground.
However Men’s fashions have often necessitated certain practical elements, and the striking 1930s motorcycling coat (lot 13) is exemplary of just that. Made of rubber to shield from the elements, a hidden flap can be strapped between the rider’s legs for additional protection – while giving the wearer a rather spectacular look! Lot 10, a 1912 stalking ensemble, similarly matches form and function with specially branded outsized pockets to store birds and game.
For the Dandies out there we have a groovy selection of 1960s ensembles perfect for peacocking down the King’s Road(lots 15-21) including a dazzling multicoloured leather Mr Fish outfit and archetypical looks from the likes of Brent & Collins and Hung on You.
Vivenne Westwood is well represented through the decades – from important earlier pieces like an original World’s End Buffalo sheepskin coat (lot 30) and a risqué Seditionaries ‘Dancing Cowboys’ t-shirt similar to the one that was responsible for getting the artist Alan Jones arrested in 1975 - and which suitably comes from the collection of another renowned artist: A.A. Bronson. For some less provocative options, there are a plethora of wonderful tartan suits as well as rare, printed denim ensembles from iconic collections such as ‘Always on Camera’ A/W 1992/93 (lot 78) and ‘Mini Crini’, S/S 1986 (lot 41)
The auction contains a huge variety of Jean Paul Gaultier items that demonstrate how the designer helped to redefine masculinity in the 1980s and 90s, a large number of which are unique pieces that never went into production due to either the high manufacturing cost, or the outrageousness of the designs making them unsuitable for retail. Included are rare pieces from important collections such as ‘Chic Rabbis/Vikings’ A/W 1993/94; ‘Tatoos/The Raw and Refined’ S/S 1994, ‘Grand Voyage’ A/W 1994/95, ‘Mad Max/Riders and Horsemen of the Modern Times’ A/W 1995/96 and ‘Tribute to Frida Kahlo/Flamenco’ S/S 1998. Gaultier would often exhibit his men’s and women’s lines at the same time and on the same catwalk, but each collection had distinct names so in these instances we have tried to provide the names of both collections for clarity. In 1993 Jean Paul Gaultier launched his androgynous ‘Jean’s’ label which saw incredible silhouettes marketed at a cool young crowd who were happy to eschew normative forms of menswear and womenswear. From the launch show are several one-of-a-kind pieces such as lots: 80, 81, 84, 85, 86 which you will likely never have a chance to purchase again.
So many important Gaultier themes are represented, such as his Breton striped sailors with fall front trousers (lots 53, 75, 77, 79, 82, 84, 85, 111, 125, 130, 131, 153), as well as the various cultural influences (religion, artists, dance, industrialism, fantasy, futurism) that thematically underpinned his best-loved shows. Gaultier loved seeing men dressed in clothes that had traditionally been reserved for women, and there are excellent examples here such as the 1993 denim corset (Lot 83), or the unbelievably rare 1987 leather waist cincher (Lot 47) – or for a slightly brighter approach we have Converse All Star style waistcoats with corsetry lacing at the back in both red and black colourways (Lots 73 and 76). Male skirts come in the form of kilts such as lot 84’s denim example which is a one-of-a-kind prototype for similar examples worn a year later on the runway for the Tattoos collection. Or another from the Tattoos collection itself printed with the iconic imagery from the show (lot 92). For one of his most iconic creations – the trouser skirt – look no further than lot 154, and for a deconstructed tiny ‘mini’ skirt/loin cloth see lot 79 – an ensemble best suited to only the bravest (or perhaps the proudest) of men.
But Gaultier was not alone in blurring the lines between stereotypically male and female garments. A group of Hardy Amies clothes (lots 139-141) includes a leather waist cincher among several tailoring masterpieces such as a bespoke fur-trimmed coat made specifically for the house’s then-creative director Ian Garlant.
Finishing the sale off are bold modern designs by the likes of Walter van Bierendonck and Charles Jefferey whose joyful colourful creations demonstrate how men’s clothes continue to be a conduit of fun, creativity and ever-evolving style.
Please note that there is an additional 1.5% charge plus VAT for any lots won via our online bidding platform.
Lot 97 - A Jean Paul Gaultier men's kilt, probably 'Grand Voyage' collection, Autumn-Winter 1994-95
Sold for £520
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 101 - A group of Jean Paul Gaultier men's shirts, 1990s-2000s
Sold for £1,690
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 103 - An interesting group of Jean Paul Gaultier men's separates, circa 1996
Sold for £650
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 106 - A Jean Paul Gaultier man's 'Safe Sex' green nylon jumpsuit, circa 1996
Sold for £585
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 108 - A group of Jean Paul Gaultier menswear, circa 1996
Sold for £1,170
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 112 - A group of Jean Paul Gaultier men's swimming trunks, 1980s-90s
Sold for £975
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 117 - An Alexander McQueen man's grey viscose ensemble, circa 1997
Sold for £4,940
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 118 - A Vivienne Westwood men's leopard spot wool blend ensemble, Autumn-Winter 1997-98
Sold for £260
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 119 - A Vivienne Westwood man's brown corduroy jacket, Autumn-Winter 1997-98
Sold for £572
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 120 - A Jean Paul Gaultier grey pinstripe wool blend jumpsuit ensemble, circa 1997
Sold for £7,150
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 121 - An Alexander McQueen man's black cotton ensemble, Spring-Summer 1998
Sold for £6,500
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 122 - A Richard James man's camouflage cotton suit, 1998
Sold for £598
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 123 - A rare Sign of the Times customized Levis jacket, 1990s
Sold for £780
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 125 - Two Jean Paul Gaultier men's casual ensembles, circa 1998
Sold for £5,720
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 129 - A Jean Paul Gaultier chain-link necklace, mid-1990s
Sold for £494
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 134 - A group of Jean Paul Gaultier men's suits and outerwear, circa 1998
Sold for £650
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 136 - A group of Jean Paul Gaultier suits, coats and formalwear, circa 1999
Sold for £1,300
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 137 - A Raf Simons charcoal grey cotton sleeveless coat, Autumn-Winter 1999-2000
Sold for £975
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 138 - A Jean Paul Gaultier man's black calfskin jumpsuit, late 1990s-early 2000s
Sold for £975
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 139 - A group of Hardy Amies men's tailored ensembles, 1990s-2000s
Sold for £2,080
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 140 - A Hardy Amies man's black wool and goat fur coat, 1990s-2000s
Sold for £2,210
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 141 - A Hardy Amies man's black leather waist cincher, 1990s-2000s
Sold for £845
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 142 - A large group of Gianni Versace suits, shirts and jackets, 1980s-90s
Sold for £2,340
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 143 - A group of men's suits and designerwear 1990s-modern
Sold for £585
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 144 - A pair of Carol Christian Poell men's backless black cotton trousers, circa 2000
Sold for £780
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)