The Mr Steven Philip Collection (part 1) & Passion for Fashion
Auction: June 20th and 21st
I’m honoured to have been entrusted with the sale of friend, collector, dealer, fashion hunter, gatherer - Mr Steven Philip’s legendary archive part 1 (day1). This is the perfect opportunity to acquire museum quality Westwood from Punk Sex-Originals, 1975, swashbuckling Pirates, 1981, and every fabulous design twist and turn of Viv’s through to romantic ball gowns and dangerously vertiginous Super Elevated Platforms of the ‘90s and 2000s. The Galliano chapter is also strong and includes a St Martin’s degree show ‘Incroyable’ waistcoat with matching original student sketch as well as rare and important early Galliano showpieces. For the finale to his section we present Lady Gaga’s ‘Red Bleeding’ rubber fetish look worn in her 911 video.
Day 2 of our fashion extravaganza continues with luxury and designer-wear by Chanel and Hermès before romping through fashion from the 18th century onwards decade by decade. Haute couture highlights include an incredibly rare Kitmir embroidered tunic for Gabrielle Chanel from 1922 (lightening does strike twice), one of her eponymous LBDs from 1924, a Schiaparelli ‘Hall of Mirrors’ jacket from 1938 as well as fabulous Dior, Balmain and Balenciaga evening wear. The Duchess of Windsor’s fashion choices are revealed by fashion sketches from the Houses of Dior, Grès and Saint Laurent complete with her rather blunt handwritten comments. (Lots 201-203).
A highlight of our Westwood offerings on day two is the unique pair of green mock croc Super Elevated Gillies personally autographed by Dame Vivienne herself.
Issey Miyake leads our Avant-Garde and Japanese section with a fine Issey Miyake 'Plastic Body' breastplate, Autumn-Winter 1980-81 as immortalized by Grace Jones.
Hilde Smith’s BodyMap Archive includes first print tests, large fabric samples, original designs, associated press clippings and a few garments. Hilde has provided us with the individual pattern names and also footnotes describing her design process. Her prints were a magical, integral part of the early BodyMap collections which she not only designed (pre computer graphics) but also on occasion modelled as her press clippings reveal.
Simon Costin’s creations for Lee Alexander McQueen are historically important and includes jewellery made for Lee’s degree show as well as one-off showpieces from ‘Dante’ and’ The Birds’. This is a once in a lifetime opportunity for museums and collectors alike to acquire them.
Just to prove that fashion is timeless we end our sale with a fine and rare Imperial summer dragon robe, longpao, Chinese, late 19th century, possibly owned by Empress Dowager Cixi.
We look forward to hearing from you and seeing you in the saleroom.
Day One: The Mr Steven Philip Collection (part 1), lots 1-147, Tuesday 20th June, begins at 14:00 BST.
Day Two: Various Owners, luxury & designer wear, antique dress, fine haute couture, cutting edge fashion of the 20th-21st century, the Hilde Smith and Simon Costin Archives and an important Imperial robe, Wednesday 21st June, morning session (lots 148 - 365) begins at 10:00 BST. Afernoon session (lots 366 - 557) begins at 14:00 BST.
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Lot 1 - A Westwood/McLaren SEX Original complete ensemble, 1974-75
Lot 2 - A pair of rare Westwood/McLaren black patent 'SEX' Bondage shoes, circa 1975
Lot 3 - A rare Westwood/McLaren SEX Original/Seditionaries ' `You're gonna wake up one morning ...'' T-shirt, 1976-7
Lot 4 - A Westwood/McLaren Seditionaries complete Parachute /Bondage ensemble, circa 1977
Lot 5 - Pete Burn's Westwood/McLaren 'Cambridge Rapist' t-shirt, 1977
Lot 6 - A Westwood/McLaren Seditionaries 'Anarchy' muslin bondage shirt, circa 1977
Lot 7 - A Westwood/McLaren complete 'Pirate' ensemble, Autumn-Winter, 1981-82
Lot 8 - A Westwood/McLaren 'Pirate' ensemble, Autumn-Winter, 1981-82
Lot 9 - A Westwood/McLaren striped cotton dress and culottes, 'Savage' collection, Spring-Summer 1982
Lot 10 - A Westwood/McLaren 'Navajo' print dress, 'Savage' collection, Spring-Summer 1982
Lot 11 - A Westwood/ McLaren collection ensemble, 'Savage' collection, Spring-Summer, 1982
Lot 12 - A Westwood/McLaren complete ensemble, 'Savage' collection, Spring-Summer, 1982
Lot 13 - A Westwood/McLaren orange toga dress and bra, 'Nostalgia of Mud' (Buffalo) collection, Autumn-Winter, 1982-3
Lot 14 - A Westwood/McLaren complete ensemble, 'Nostalgia of Mud' (Buffalo), Autumn-Winter, 1982-3
Lot 15 - A Westwood/McLaren complete ensemble, 'Punkature' (Hobo) collection, Spring-Summer 1983
Lot 16 - A Westwood/McLaren complete ensemble, 'Nostalgia of Mud' (Buffalo), Autumn-Winter, 1982-83
Lot 17 - A Westwood/McLaren ensemble, worn by Lauren Hutton, 'Witches' collection, Autumn-Winter, 1983-84
Lot 18 - A Westwood/McLaren grey tubular knit ensemble, 'Punkature' (Hobo) collection, Spring-Summer 1983
Lot 19 - A rare Westwood/McLaren grey wool 'Koo' tunic and trainers, 'Witches' collection, Autumn-Winter, 1983-4
Lot 20 - A complete ensemble, 'Witches' collection, Autumn-Winter 1983-84
Lot 21 - A Westwood/McLaren outsized trench coat, 'Witches' collection, Autumn-Winter 1983-84
Lot 22 - A Vivienne Westwood complete sports-inspired ensemble, 'Hypnos' Spring-Summer, 1984
Lot 23 - A rare Vivienne Westwood showpiece dress, 'Hypnos' Spring-Summer 1984
Lot 24 - A Vivienne Westwood giant polka-dot ensemble, 'Mini-Crini', Spring-Summer, 1986
Lot 25 - A Vivienne Westwood complete denim ensemble, 'Mini-Crini', Spring-Summer, 1986
Lot 26 - A Vivienne Westwood crown, 'Harris Tweed' collection, Autumn-Winter, 1987-8
Lot 27 - A Vivienne Westwood red wool trouser suit, 'Harris Tweed' collection, Autumn-Winter, 1987-88
Lot 28 - A complete green gazar Centaurella ensemble, 'Britain Must Go Pagan', Spring-Summer, 1988
Lot 29 - A Vivienne Westwood shot-velvet micro Mini-Crini ensemble worn by Lila Moss, 'Harris Tweed' collection, Autumn-Winter, 1987-88
Lot 30 - A Vivienne Westwood men's Time Machine suit, Autumn-Winter 1988-89
Lot 31 - A Vivienne Westwood complete black velvet ensemble, 'Time Machine', Autumn-Winter, 1988-89
Lot 32 - A Vivienne Westwood complete gold and white ensemble, 'Britain Must Go Pagan', Spring-Summer, 1988
Lot 33 - A Vivienne Westwood printed pink suedette ensemble, 'Pagan V' collection, Spring-Summer, 1990
Lot 34 - A Vivienne Westwood striped wool Armour waistcoat/jacket 'Time Machine' collection, Autumn-Winter 1988-89
Lot 35 - A Vivienne Westwood sari-inspired ensemble, 'Civilizade', Spring-Summer, 1989
Lot 36 - A Vivienne Westwood men's tartan kilt ensemble, 'Time Machine', Autumn-Winter, 1988-89
Lot 37 - A Vivienne Westwood men's denim ensemble, 'Cut and Slash', Spring-Summer, 1991
Lot 38 - A Vivienne Westwood striped wool blazer 'Time Machine' collection, Autumn-Winter 1988-89
Lot 39 - A rare pare of fig-leaf mirrored underpants/knickers, 'Voyage to Cythera' Autumn-Winter, 1989-90
Lot 40 - A fine Vivienne Westwood Boucher-print complete corset ensemble, 'Portrait' collection, Autumn-Winter, 1990-91
Lot 41 - A Vivienne Westwood draped jersey corset, 'Civilizade', Spring-Summer, 1989
Lot 42 - A Vivienne Westwood men's black satin trouser suit, 'Cut, Slash & Pull', Spring-Summer, 1991
Lot 43 - A Vivienne Westwood Boucher print swimsuit and striped shirt, 'Cut, Slash & Pull', Spring-Summer, 1991
Lot 44 - A Vivienne Westwood Fragonard cupid-print dress, 'Dressing Up' collection, Autumn-Winter, 1991-92
Lot 45 - A Vivienne Westwood men's Harris tweed tartan suit, 'Dressing Up' collection, Autumn-Winter, 1991-92
Lot 46 - A Vivienne Westwood tartan 'Love Heart' suit, 'Dressing Up' collection, Autumn-Winter, 1991-92
Lot 47 - A Vivienne Westwood corseted sweater and satin shorts, 'Dressing Up' collection, Autumn-Winter, 1991-92
Lot 48 - A Vivienne Westwood printed denim trouser suit, 'Dressing Up' collection, Autumn-Winter, 1991-92