The Mr Steven Philip Collection (part 1) & Passion for Fashion
Auction: June 20th and 21st
I’m honoured to have been entrusted with the sale of friend, collector, dealer, fashion hunter, gatherer - Mr Steven Philip’s legendary archive part 1 (day1). This is the perfect opportunity to acquire museum quality Westwood from Punk Sex-Originals, 1975, swashbuckling Pirates, 1981, and every fabulous design twist and turn of Viv’s through to romantic ball gowns and dangerously vertiginous Super Elevated Platforms of the ‘90s and 2000s. The Galliano chapter is also strong and includes a St Martin’s degree show ‘Incroyable’ waistcoat with matching original student sketch as well as rare and important early Galliano showpieces. For the finale to his section we present Lady Gaga’s ‘Red Bleeding’ rubber fetish look worn in her 911 video.
Day 2 of our fashion extravaganza continues with luxury and designer-wear by Chanel and Hermès before romping through fashion from the 18th century onwards decade by decade. Haute couture highlights include an incredibly rare Kitmir embroidered tunic for Gabrielle Chanel from 1922 (lightening does strike twice), one of her eponymous LBDs from 1924, a Schiaparelli ‘Hall of Mirrors’ jacket from 1938 as well as fabulous Dior, Balmain and Balenciaga evening wear. The Duchess of Windsor’s fashion choices are revealed by fashion sketches from the Houses of Dior, Grès and Saint Laurent complete with her rather blunt handwritten comments. (Lots 201-203).
A highlight of our Westwood offerings on day two is the unique pair of green mock croc Super Elevated Gillies personally autographed by Dame Vivienne herself.
Issey Miyake leads our Avant-Garde and Japanese section with a fine Issey Miyake 'Plastic Body' breastplate, Autumn-Winter 1980-81 as immortalized by Grace Jones.
Hilde Smith’s BodyMap Archive includes first print tests, large fabric samples, original designs, associated press clippings and a few garments. Hilde has provided us with the individual pattern names and also footnotes describing her design process. Her prints were a magical, integral part of the early BodyMap collections which she not only designed (pre computer graphics) but also on occasion modelled as her press clippings reveal.
Simon Costin’s creations for Lee Alexander McQueen are historically important and includes jewellery made for Lee’s degree show as well as one-off showpieces from ‘Dante’ and’ The Birds’. This is a once in a lifetime opportunity for museums and collectors alike to acquire them.
Just to prove that fashion is timeless we end our sale with a fine and rare Imperial summer dragon robe, longpao, Chinese, late 19th century, possibly owned by Empress Dowager Cixi.
We look forward to hearing from you and seeing you in the saleroom.
Day One: The Mr Steven Philip Collection (part 1), lots 1-147, Tuesday 20th June, begins at 14:00 BST.
Day Two: Various Owners, luxury & designer wear, antique dress, fine haute couture, cutting edge fashion of the 20th-21st century, the Hilde Smith and Simon Costin Archives and an important Imperial robe, Wednesday 21st June, morning session (lots 148 - 365) begins at 10:00 BST. Afernoon session (lots 366 - 557) begins at 14:00 BST.
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Lot 1 - A Westwood/McLaren SEX Original complete ensemble, 1974-75
Sold for £1,235
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 2 - A pair of rare Westwood/McLaren black patent 'SEX' Bondage shoes, circa 1975
Sold for £1,690
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 4 - A Westwood/McLaren Seditionaries complete Parachute /Bondage ensemble, circa 1977
Sold for £3,640
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 5 - Pete Burn's Westwood/McLaren 'Cambridge Rapist' t-shirt, 1977
Sold for £1,950
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 6 - A Westwood/McLaren Seditionaries 'Anarchy' muslin bondage shirt, circa 1977
Sold for £2,340
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 7 - A Westwood/McLaren complete 'Pirate' ensemble, Autumn-Winter, 1981-82
Sold for £15,600
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 8 - A Westwood/McLaren 'Pirate' ensemble, Autumn-Winter, 1981-82
Sold for £2,860
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 11 - A Westwood/ McLaren collection ensemble, 'Savage' collection, Spring-Summer, 1982
Sold for £2,080
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 12 - A Westwood/McLaren complete ensemble, 'Savage' collection, Spring-Summer, 1982
Sold for £3,640
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 15 - A Westwood/McLaren complete ensemble, 'Punkature' (Hobo) collection, Spring-Summer 1983
Sold for £20,800
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 16 - A Westwood/McLaren complete ensemble, 'Nostalgia of Mud' (Buffalo), Autumn-Winter, 1982-83
Sold for £2,340
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 20 - A complete ensemble, 'Witches' collection, Autumn-Winter 1983-84
Sold for £2,600
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 21 - A Westwood/McLaren outsized trench coat, 'Witches' collection, Autumn-Winter 1983-84
Sold for £2,600
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 22 - A Vivienne Westwood complete sports-inspired ensemble, 'Hypnos' Spring-Summer, 1984
Sold for £2,080
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 23 - A rare Vivienne Westwood showpiece dress, 'Hypnos' Spring-Summer 1984
Sold for £10,400
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 24 - A Vivienne Westwood giant polka-dot ensemble, 'Mini-Crini', Spring-Summer, 1986
Sold for £5,460
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 25 - A Vivienne Westwood complete denim ensemble, 'Mini-Crini', Spring-Summer, 1986
Sold for £3,120
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 26 - A Vivienne Westwood crown, 'Harris Tweed' collection, Autumn-Winter, 1987-8
Sold for £5,460
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 28 - A complete green gazar Centaurella ensemble, 'Britain Must Go Pagan', Spring-Summer, 1988
Sold for £910
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 30 - A Vivienne Westwood men's Time Machine suit, Autumn-Winter 1988-89
Sold for £2,080
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 31 - A Vivienne Westwood complete black velvet ensemble, 'Time Machine', Autumn-Winter, 1988-89
Sold for £1,105
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 35 - A Vivienne Westwood sari-inspired ensemble, 'Civilizade', Spring-Summer, 1989
Sold for £520
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 36 - A Vivienne Westwood men's tartan kilt ensemble, 'Time Machine', Autumn-Winter, 1988-89
Sold for £1,820
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 37 - A Vivienne Westwood men's denim ensemble, 'Cut and Slash', Spring-Summer, 1991
Sold for £4,160
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 41 - A Vivienne Westwood draped jersey corset, 'Civilizade', Spring-Summer, 1989
Sold for £572
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 50 - A Vivienne Westwood printed corset ensemble, 'Salon', Spring-Summer, 1992
Sold for £2,600
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 53 - A Vivienne Westwood lace-print velvet dress, 'Always on Camera' Autumn-Winter, 1992-93
Sold for £494
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 55 - A Vivienne Westwood dog print corset, 'Always on Camera' Autumn-Winter, 1992-93
Sold for £2,860
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 56 - A black velvet and faux fox fur 'Marlene' coat, 'Always on Camera' Autumn-Winter, 1992-93
Sold for £1,820
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 57 - Vivienne Westwood complete rose-print corset ensemble, 'Grand Hotel', Spring-Summer, 1993
Sold for £1,820
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 58 - A Vivienne Westwood black taffeta ball gown, 1993 and early 2000s
Sold for £2,600
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 59 - A Vivienne Westwood 'Gorilla' jacket, 'Always on Camera' Autumn-Winter, 1992-93
Sold for £715
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 61 - A Vivienne Westwood men's Rubens-print denim ensemble, 'Grand Hotel', Spring-Summer, 1993
Sold for £1,820
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 63 - A Vivienne Westwood cotton corset dress, 'Grand Hotel', Spring-Summer, 1993
Sold for £910
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 66 - A Vivienne Westwood scarlet serge suit, 'On Liberty' collection, Autumn-Winter, 1994-95
Sold for £975
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 68 - A Vivienne Westwood taffeta ballgown, circa 2008
Sold for £3,900
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 73 - A pair of custom-made black fetish Super Elevated platforms, circa 1993
Sold for £4,550
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 74 - A pair of Vivienne Westwood gold-leather Super Elevated Ghillie platform shoes, 2001
Sold for £3,640
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 77 - A rare dyed muslin shirt, 'Afghanistan Repudiates Western Ideals', Spring-Summer, 1985
Sold for £975
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 80 - A rare John Galliano spencer jacket, 'The Ludic Game', Autumn-Winter, 1985-86
Sold for £36,400
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 81 - A rare John Galliano knitted tunic 'The Ludic Game' collection, Autumn-Winter, 1985-86
Sold for £2,340
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 82 - John Galliano knitted sweater dress 'The Ludic Game' collection, Autumn-Winter, 1985-86
Sold for £390
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 84 - A rare John Galliano knitted breastband 'The Ludic Game' collection, Autumn-Winter, 1985-86
Sold for £910
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 89 - A John Galliano textured sweater, 'Fallen Angels' collection, Spring-Summer 1986
Sold for £572
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 90 - A pair of John Galliano by Trevor Hill brown leather shoes, 1986
Sold for £390
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 92 - A John Galliano black gabardine 'pannier' coat, A/W 1986 or S/S 1987
Sold for £5,200
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 94 - A John Galliano viscose ensemble, Spring-Summer, 1987
Sold for £1,170
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 95 - A John Galliano original fashion sketch, Spring-Summer, 1987
Sold for £1,170
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 96 - A John Galliano navy wool coat/dress, 'The Rose' collection, Autumn-Winter 1987-88
Sold for £1,950
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
