The Mr Steven Philip Collection (part 1) & Passion for Fashion
Auction: June 20th and 21st
I’m honoured to have been entrusted with the sale of friend, collector, dealer, fashion hunter, gatherer - Mr Steven Philip’s legendary archive part 1 (day1). This is the perfect opportunity to acquire museum quality Westwood from Punk Sex-Originals, 1975, swashbuckling Pirates, 1981, and every fabulous design twist and turn of Viv’s through to romantic ball gowns and dangerously vertiginous Super Elevated Platforms of the ‘90s and 2000s. The Galliano chapter is also strong and includes a St Martin’s degree show ‘Incroyable’ waistcoat with matching original student sketch as well as rare and important early Galliano showpieces. For the finale to his section we present Lady Gaga’s ‘Red Bleeding’ rubber fetish look worn in her 911 video.
Day 2 of our fashion extravaganza continues with luxury and designer-wear by Chanel and Hermès before romping through fashion from the 18th century onwards decade by decade. Haute couture highlights include an incredibly rare Kitmir embroidered tunic for Gabrielle Chanel from 1922 (lightening does strike twice), one of her eponymous LBDs from 1924, a Schiaparelli ‘Hall of Mirrors’ jacket from 1938 as well as fabulous Dior, Balmain and Balenciaga evening wear. The Duchess of Windsor’s fashion choices are revealed by fashion sketches from the Houses of Dior, Grès and Saint Laurent complete with her rather blunt handwritten comments. (Lots 201-203).
A highlight of our Westwood offerings on day two is the unique pair of green mock croc Super Elevated Gillies personally autographed by Dame Vivienne herself.
Issey Miyake leads our Avant-Garde and Japanese section with a fine Issey Miyake 'Plastic Body' breastplate, Autumn-Winter 1980-81 as immortalized by Grace Jones.
Hilde Smith’s BodyMap Archive includes first print tests, large fabric samples, original designs, associated press clippings and a few garments. Hilde has provided us with the individual pattern names and also footnotes describing her design process. Her prints were a magical, integral part of the early BodyMap collections which she not only designed (pre computer graphics) but also on occasion modelled as her press clippings reveal.
Simon Costin’s creations for Lee Alexander McQueen are historically important and includes jewellery made for Lee’s degree show as well as one-off showpieces from ‘Dante’ and’ The Birds’. This is a once in a lifetime opportunity for museums and collectors alike to acquire them.
Just to prove that fashion is timeless we end our sale with a fine and rare Imperial summer dragon robe, longpao, Chinese, late 19th century, possibly owned by Empress Dowager Cixi.
We look forward to hearing from you and seeing you in the saleroom.
Day One: The Mr Steven Philip Collection (part 1), lots 1-147, Tuesday 20th June, begins at 14:00 BST.
Day Two: Various Owners, luxury & designer wear, antique dress, fine haute couture, cutting edge fashion of the 20th-21st century, the Hilde Smith and Simon Costin Archives and an important Imperial robe, Wednesday 21st June, morning session (lots 148 - 365) begins at 10:00 BST. Afernoon session (lots 366 - 557) begins at 14:00 BST.
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Lot 49 - A rare Vivienne Westwood complete 'Boulle' print corset ensemble, 'Salon', Spring-Summer, 1992
Lot 50 - A Vivienne Westwood printed corset ensemble, 'Salon', Spring-Summer, 1992
Lot 51 - A Vivienne Westwood printed men's denim trouser ensemble, 'Salon' collection, Spring-Summer, 1992
Lot 52 - A Vivienne Westwood faux fur crown, probably a show-piece, 'Always on Camera' Autumn-Winter, 1992-93
Lot 53 - A Vivienne Westwood lace-print velvet dress, 'Always on Camera' Autumn-Winter, 1992-93
Lot 54 - A Vivienne Westwood faux leopard fur jacket and bag, 'Always on Camera' Autumn-Winter, 1992-93
Lot 55 - A Vivienne Westwood dog print corset, 'Always on Camera' Autumn-Winter, 1992-93
Lot 56 - A black velvet and faux fox fur 'Marlene' coat, 'Always on Camera' Autumn-Winter, 1992-93
Lot 57 - Vivienne Westwood complete rose-print corset ensemble, 'Grand Hotel', Spring-Summer, 1993
Lot 58 - A Vivienne Westwood black taffeta ball gown, 1993 and early 2000s
Lot 59 - A Vivienne Westwood 'Gorilla' jacket, 'Always on Camera' Autumn-Winter, 1992-93
Lot 60 - A Vivienne Westwood red Love Heart 'Gorilla' jacket, 'Always on Camera' Autumn-Winter, 1992-93
Lot 61 - A Vivienne Westwood men's Rubens-print denim ensemble, 'Grand Hotel', Spring-Summer, 1993
Lot 62 - A Vivienne Westwood 'Always on Camera' denim 'Marlene' corset ensemble, Autumn-Winter, 1992-93
Lot 63 - A Vivienne Westwood cotton corset dress, 'Grand Hotel', Spring-Summer, 1993
Lot 64 - A Vivienne Westwood complete grey flannel ensemble, 'Anglomania' collection, Autumn-Winter, 1993-94
Lot 65 - A rare Vivienne Westwood stretch-girdle and bum pad, 'On Liberty' collection, Autumn-Winter, 1994-95
Lot 66 - A Vivienne Westwood scarlet serge suit, 'On Liberty' collection, Autumn-Winter, 1994-95
Lot 67 - A fine complete crochet corset dress ensemble, 'On Liberty' collection, Autumn-Winter, 1994-95
Lot 68 - A Vivienne Westwood taffeta ballgown, circa 2008
Lot 69 - A rare Vivienne Westwood faux-fur corset, Vive La Cocotte' collection, Autumn-Winter 1995-96
Lot 70 - A Vivienne Westwood multi-tartan ensemble, 'Storm in a Teacup' collection, Autumn-Winter 1996
Lot 71 - A Vivienne Westwood striped and ribbed wool suit, 'Dressed to Scale' collection, Autumn-Winter 1998-99
Lot 72 - A Vivienne Westwood red and green striped silk ensemble, 'Tied to the Mast' collection, Spring-Summer 1998
Lot 73 - A pair of custom-made black fetish Super Elevated platforms, circa 1993
Lot 74 - A pair of Vivienne Westwood gold-leather Super Elevated Ghillie platform shoes, 2001
Lot 75 - A Vivienne Westwood Limited edition Opus Manifesto book, 2011
Lot 76 - A rare John Galliano degree show waistcoat with matching original sketches, 'Incroyables' collection, 1984
Lot 77 - A rare dyed muslin shirt, 'Afghanistan Repudiates Western Ideals', Spring-Summer, 1985
Lot 78 - A rare John Galliano muslin robe, 'Afghanistan Repudiates Western Ideals', Spring-Summer, 1984
Lot 79 - A rare and important John Galliano printed 'Vultures' kimono, 'The Ludic Game' collection, Autumn-Winter, 1985-86
Lot 80 - A rare John Galliano spencer jacket, 'The Ludic Game', Autumn-Winter, 1985-86
Lot 81 - A rare John Galliano knitted tunic 'The Ludic Game' collection, Autumn-Winter, 1985-86
Lot 82 - John Galliano knitted sweater dress 'The Ludic Game' collection, Autumn-Winter, 1985-86
Lot 83 - A rare John Galliano jumbo needlecord ensemble, 'The Ludic Game' collection, Autumn-Winter, 1985-86
Lot 84 - A rare John Galliano knitted breastband 'The Ludic Game' collection, Autumn-Winter, 1985-86
Lot 85 - A rare John Galliano linen 'Scissor-Pleat' dress, Fallen Angels collection, Spring-Summer 1986
Lot 86 - A fine and rare John Galliano outsized jacket, 'Fallen Angels' collection, Spring-Summer 1986
Lot 87 - A rare pair of John Galliano by Patrick Cox 'Hobo' boots, 'Fallen Angels' collection, Spring-Summer 1986
Lot 88 - A rare pair of John Galliano by Patrick Cox 'Hobo' boots, 'Fallen Angels' collection, Spring-Summer 1986
Lot 89 - A John Galliano textured sweater, 'Fallen Angels' collection, Spring-Summer 1986
Lot 90 - A pair of John Galliano by Trevor Hill brown leather shoes, 1986
Lot 91 - A rare and important John Galliano 'Tarot' card ensemble, 'Forgotten Innocents' collection, Autumn-Winter, 1986-87
Lot 92 - A John Galliano black gabardine 'pannier' coat, A/W 1986 or S/S 1987
Lot 93 - A rare John Galliano tartan cotton 'bustle' dress, 'The Rose' collection, Autumn-Winter 1987-88
Lot 94 - A John Galliano viscose ensemble, Spring-Summer, 1987
Lot 95 - A John Galliano original fashion sketch, Spring-Summer, 1987
Lot 96 - A John Galliano navy wool coat/dress, 'The Rose' collection, Autumn-Winter 1987-88