Our first auction of the year is a bumper one - over 550 lots of vintage fashion, textiles and accessories – so hopefully something to interest everyone?
Stuck for something to wear to this year’s Met Gala Ball? Then look no further – see lot 183, the scarlet satin surrealist hat made to Karl Lagerfeld’s design by London milliner Kirstin Woodward in 1985. It is not only desirable as a wearable accessory but is also museum quality having previously been included in FIT’s Fashion & Surrealism exhibition, October 30, 1987-January 23, 1988. Isabelle Pascoe was photographed wearing a pink example for British Vogue, December, 1985. Vogue stated,
‘'A surreal trick of judgement with wild surmise. Surprise? Classic distortion, upholstery, plat du jour perch above the stark silhouette of something sexy and understated.'"
At Christmas, the fashion world lost its honorary Queen: Dame Vivienne Westwood and she is well represented in our sale. Highlights include Lot 160, the sleeved ‘Boucher’ corset, ‘Portrait’ collection, Autumn-Winter 1990-91, and Lot 184, which comprises a red velvet corset, ‘Harris Tweed’ collection, Autumn-Winter 1987-88 and rare ‘mini-crini’, Spring-Summer 1985. We even have a photograph showing the original beautiful owner wearing the corset, dancing the night away in the Kinky Gerlinky night club!
We offer the ‘Lucinda Portobello Collection, Part I’. Lucinda Alford was a major player in the London Vintage fashion scene for many decades. She was renowned for her exceptional eye and eclectic taste, which is evident throughout the rails filled with pretty 1930s floral chiffons, romantic Edwardian dresses, dreamy bohemian gowns and colourful prints, starkly contrasted by the brutal minimalism of pieces by one of Lucinda’s great loves: Martin Margiela.
Families gathering around their TV’s in the UK on Saturday nights during the 1960s would have been familiar with the Kaye Sisters who achieved huge fame during the late 50s and 60s with hits including 'Paper Roses’ and ‘Handed Down’. They performed in numerous Royal Command Performances at the London Palladium, as well as TV variety shows hosted by Max Bygraves and others. The three singers – Shan, Carole and Shiela, weren’t actually sisters but had matching blonde hairstyles to suggest a familial resemblance. Their preferred costumier was Douglas Darnell who also produced many of Shirley Bassey’s most glittering costumes. Shan Kaye’s razzle-dazzle stage outfits dripping in faux gems, shimmering with beads are lots 343-346.
We also feature a selection of fine antique costume & textiles from around the world, including Lot 554, a brocaded summer dragon robe - jifu, Chinese, circa 1900, Lot 539, an embroidered wool scarf, Zoroastrian, Yazd, Persia, 19th century.
We hope you enjoy browsing this sale as much as we have enjoyed creating it for you and look forward to assisting you with condition reports and bidding.
Morning session, lots 1-250, begins at 9.30am GMT. The afternoon session, lots 251-556, will begin at 2pm GMT.
For more information on how to bid, please click here. Live bidding is now possible via our website on sale day. In order to bid online, please ensure you have created an account with us and that your account is enabled for live bidding - new clients will need to email us a form of photo ID, proof of address and paid invoices from other auction houses where appropriate. Once you have created an account and have been approved to bid, please click the purple 'Pre-register for live bidding' button which will appear on the online catalogue before the sale. You then need to accept the terms and conditions to proceed. On the day of the sale, a button marked 'Bid live' will appear on the website and clicking this will allow you to access the live bidding platform. Please note that there is an additional 1.5% charge plus VAT for any lots won via our online bidding platform. Please also note that online bidding is automatically capped at £6,000 in total - if you envisage that you will exceed this amount, please contact us directly so we can remove the bidding cap - we may ask for further information from you before doing this.
Clients who prefer to bid via Invaluable still have this option and can access the catalogue here. Please note the charge for bidding online via the Invaluable platform is 3% plus VAT. We strongly advise that you register to bid in advance of the auction and not the day of, as we cannot guarantee approval once the auction has begun.
Lot 98 - Maison Martin Margiela, Spring-Summer, 2005
Sold for £650
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 99 - A Martin Margiela black wool single-breasted jacket, Autumn-Winter 2002-03
Sold for £325
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 100 - A Givenchy black jersey evening dress, circa 2015
Sold for £390
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 101 - Two Amanda Wakeley satin slip-dresses, modern
Sold for £650
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 102 - Three Amanda Wakeley evening dresses, modern
Sold for £442
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 103 - A Versace sequined shift dress, Spring-Summer 2012
Sold for £845
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 104 - An Alexander McQueen black satin cape, Pre-Fall 2007
Sold for £546
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 105 - An Alexander McQueen military-style embroidered wool jacket, Autumn-Winter 2006
Sold for £2,340
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 106 - A Christian Dior by John Galliano haute couture brown moss-crêpe suit, Spring-Summer 2001
Sold for £494
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 107 - An Alexander McQueen off-white silk faille mantle, Spring-Summer 2005
Sold for £650
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 110 - A John Galliano brown leather biker jacket, Autumn-Winter 2001/2002
Sold for £572
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 111 - A group of John Galliano coats and jackets, mainly early 1990s
Sold for £715
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 112 - A pair of Gucci monogrammed canvas boots, 2000s
Sold for £390
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 114 - A group of Alexander McQueen separates, 2000s
Sold for £1,430
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 116 - Alexander McQueen knitwear and accessories, 2000s
Sold for £624
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 117 - Two Pucci printed dresses, circa 2000
Sold for £416
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 118 - A Roberto Cavalli printed chiffon dress, circa 2001
Sold for £572
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 119 - A group of mainly Dior Boutique by Galliano separates, early 2000s
Sold for £494
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 120 - A Roberto Cavalli ensemble, Spring-Summer 2003
Sold for £975
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 121 - An Emporio Armani fuchsia cashmere-wool suit, circa 2000
Sold for £143
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 123 - An Azzedine Alaia ensemble 'Tati' collection, Spring-Summer 1991
Sold for £624
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 124 - A John Galliano quilted waistcoat, 'Fencing' collection, Autumn-Winter 1990-91
Sold for £910
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 125 - A Vivienne Westwood flocked tulle bodice, 'Salon' collection, Spring-Summer 1992
Sold for £1,235
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 126 - A Thierry Mugler black wool-crêpe evening gown, probably Spring-Summer 1999
Sold for £494
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 127 - A Moschino "Gladiator" cocktail dress, 1990s
Sold for £416
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 128 - A Jean Paul Gaultier faux fur-lined coat with detachable skirt circa 1995
Sold for £715
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 129 - Jean-Paul Gaultier costume jewellery, 1990s
Sold for £208
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 130 - A Viviene Westwood gold cloqué jacket, Autumn/Winter 1995-96
Sold for £494
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 131 - A Gianni Versace leather jacket, early 1990s
Sold for £520
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 132 - An Azzedine Alaïa double-breasted jacket, 1990s
Sold for £624
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 133 - A group of Christian Dior evening shoes, mainly 1990s
Sold for £117
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 134 - Two Geoffrey Beene skimpy cocktail dresses, 1990s
Sold for £1,235
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 135 - Four Geoffrey Beene slinky evening dresses, 1980s-1990s
Sold for £2,600
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 136 - A Geoffrey Beene beige wool evening dress with purple zippers, 1990s
Sold for £572
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 137 - An Ungaro couture medieval-inspired evening coat, 1990s
Sold for £1,430
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 138 - A Romeo Gigli navy silk-wool empire-line dress, 1990s
Sold for £1,040
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 139 - A John Pearce pinstriped navy wool suit, probably 1990s
Sold for £312
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 140 - A Vivienne Westwood ivory lace corset, 'Always on Camera' collection, A/W 1992-93
Sold for £1,430
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 141 - A Thierry Mugler black silk crepe cocktail dress, probably Autumn-Winter, 1986-87
Sold for £845
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 143 - A group of summer and evening-wear, 1990s
Sold for £286
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 145 - A Gianni Versace purple satin evening dress, 1997
Sold for £546
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 147 - An Azzedine Alaïa black cotton jersey dress, Spring-Summer 1992
Sold for £286
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 148 - An Azzedine Alaïa black rayon jersey dress, possibly Spring-Summer 1990
Sold for £468
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 149 - A group of Yves Saint Laurent and Burberry casual-wear, 1990s
Sold for £572
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 150 - A Dolce and Gabbana faux-fur cow-print jacket, mid 1990s
Sold for £468
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 152 - A Vivienne Westwood cow print ensemble, 'Pagan V' collection Spring-Summer 1990
Sold for £2,600
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 153 - A John Galliano black knitted viscose dress, 'Haute Bohemia' collection Spring-Summer 1998
Sold for £1,105
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 154 - A group of Thierry Mugler suits, 1980s-1990s
Sold for £546
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 155 - A Group of Romeo Gigli separates, 1980s-1990s
Sold for £1,950
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 157 - A Vivienne Westwood red satin corset bodice, 1990s
Sold for £975
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 158 - Eight pairs of Tom Ford for Gucci shoes, 1990s-2002
Sold for £598
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 159 - John Galliano original studio sketches, 'Honcho Woman' collection, Spring-Summer 1991
Sold for £2,210
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 160 - A Vivienne Westwood 'Boucher' sleeved corset, 'Portrait' collection, Autumn-Winter 1990-91
Sold for £4,160
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 162 - An Yves Saint Laurent purple crushed velvet suit, 1990s
Sold for £442
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 163 - A Vivienne Westwood t-shirt dress, 'Always on Camera', Autumn-Winter, 1992-93
Sold for £1,300
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 164 - A Vivienne Westwood flocked tulle corset dress, Autumn-Winter, 1992-93
Sold for £1,040
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 165 - A Jean-Paul Gaultier leather bustier, Spring-Summer, 1991
Sold for £1,040
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 166 - A Vivienne Westwood black sheepskin coat, 1990s
Sold for £780
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 167 - A group of Vivienne Westwood knitwear and separates, 1990s
Sold for £2,600
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 168 - A Vivienne Westwood burgundy satin sleeved corset bodice, 1990s
Sold for £910
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 169 - Two Vivienne Westwood suits, 1990s-early 2000s
Sold for £312
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 170 - Two Vivienne Westwood suits, 1990s- early 2000s
Sold for £390
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 171 - A Thierry Mugler black wool cocktail dress, 1990s
Sold for £520
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 172 - A John Galliano dress, Blanche DuBois collection, Spring-Summer 1988
Sold for £910
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 173 - A John Galliano bias-cut skirt and a body, 1980s-90s
Sold for £975
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 176 - John Galliano original studio sketches, Spring-Summer 1987
Sold for £520
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 177 - John Galliano original studio sketches, Spring-Summer 1987
Sold for £520
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 178 - A group of designer dresses, 1980s- modern
Sold for £260
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 179 - A group of designer outerwear, 1980s-modern
Sold for £572
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 180 - A Courrèges 'Mondrian' dress, 1980s
Sold for £1,300
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 181 - A Patricia Lester pleated silk two-piece ensemble, 1980s
Sold for £780
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 182 - A Jean-Louis Scherrer ornately embellished silk-chiffon bolero, 1980s
Sold for £715
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 183 - A rare Karl Lagerfeld surrealist hat made by Kirstin Woodward, 1985
Sold for £1,950
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 184 - A Vivienne Westwood red velvet corset, Harris Tweed collection, Autumn-Winter, 1987-88
Sold for £1,560
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 185 - A Roberto Cavalli patchwork suede coat, early 1980s
Sold for £780
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 186 - An Yves Saint Laurent ink-purple satin cocktail dress, circa 1988
Sold for £286
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 188 - A Westwood/McLaren stockinette top, 'Punkature' (Hobo) collection, Spring-Summer 1983
Sold for £2,210
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 189 - A pair of Vivienne Westwood Rocking Horse shoes, 1990s
Sold for £221
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 190 - Vivienne Westwood elevated platforms, 2000s
Sold for £845
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 191 - A group of Saint Laurent Rive Gauche, 1980s-90s
Sold for £715
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 192 - A general group of Katherine Hamnett clothing, 1980s-90s
Sold for £260
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 194 - A Jean-Paul Gaultier knitted sweater dress and converse trainers, late 1980s-1990s
Sold for £234
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)