Our first auction of the year is a bumper one - over 550 lots of vintage fashion, textiles and accessories – so hopefully something to interest everyone?
Stuck for something to wear to this year’s Met Gala Ball? Then look no further – see lot 183, the scarlet satin surrealist hat made to Karl Lagerfeld’s design by London milliner Kirstin Woodward in 1985. It is not only desirable as a wearable accessory but is also museum quality having previously been included in FIT’s Fashion & Surrealism exhibition, October 30, 1987-January 23, 1988. Isabelle Pascoe was photographed wearing a pink example for British Vogue, December, 1985. Vogue stated,
‘'A surreal trick of judgement with wild surmise. Surprise? Classic distortion, upholstery, plat du jour perch above the stark silhouette of something sexy and understated.'"
At Christmas, the fashion world lost its honorary Queen: Dame Vivienne Westwood and she is well represented in our sale. Highlights include Lot 160, the sleeved ‘Boucher’ corset, ‘Portrait’ collection, Autumn-Winter 1990-91, and Lot 184, which comprises a red velvet corset, ‘Harris Tweed’ collection, Autumn-Winter 1987-88 and rare ‘mini-crini’, Spring-Summer 1985. We even have a photograph showing the original beautiful owner wearing the corset, dancing the night away in the Kinky Gerlinky night club!
We offer the ‘Lucinda Portobello Collection, Part I’. Lucinda Alford was a major player in the London Vintage fashion scene for many decades. She was renowned for her exceptional eye and eclectic taste, which is evident throughout the rails filled with pretty 1930s floral chiffons, romantic Edwardian dresses, dreamy bohemian gowns and colourful prints, starkly contrasted by the brutal minimalism of pieces by one of Lucinda’s great loves: Martin Margiela.
Families gathering around their TV’s in the UK on Saturday nights during the 1960s would have been familiar with the Kaye Sisters who achieved huge fame during the late 50s and 60s with hits including 'Paper Roses’ and ‘Handed Down’. They performed in numerous Royal Command Performances at the London Palladium, as well as TV variety shows hosted by Max Bygraves and others. The three singers – Shan, Carole and Shiela, weren’t actually sisters but had matching blonde hairstyles to suggest a familial resemblance. Their preferred costumier was Douglas Darnell who also produced many of Shirley Bassey’s most glittering costumes. Shan Kaye’s razzle-dazzle stage outfits dripping in faux gems, shimmering with beads are lots 343-346.
We also feature a selection of fine antique costume & textiles from around the world, including Lot 554, a brocaded summer dragon robe - jifu, Chinese, circa 1900, Lot 539, an embroidered wool scarf, Zoroastrian, Yazd, Persia, 19th century.
We hope you enjoy browsing this sale as much as we have enjoyed creating it for you and look forward to assisting you with condition reports and bidding.
Morning session, lots 1-250, begins at 9.30am GMT. The afternoon session, lots 251-556, will begin at 2pm GMT.
For more information on how to bid, please click here. Live bidding is now possible via our website on sale day. In order to bid online, please ensure you have created an account with us and that your account is enabled for live bidding - new clients will need to email us a form of photo ID, proof of address and paid invoices from other auction houses where appropriate. Once you have created an account and have been approved to bid, please click the purple 'Pre-register for live bidding' button which will appear on the online catalogue before the sale. You then need to accept the terms and conditions to proceed. On the day of the sale, a button marked 'Bid live' will appear on the website and clicking this will allow you to access the live bidding platform. Please note that there is an additional 1.5% charge plus VAT for any lots won via our online bidding platform. Please also note that online bidding is automatically capped at £6,000 in total - if you envisage that you will exceed this amount, please contact us directly so we can remove the bidding cap - we may ask for further information from you before doing this.
Clients who prefer to bid via Invaluable still have this option and can access the catalogue here. Please note the charge for bidding online via the Invaluable platform is 3% plus VAT. We strongly advise that you register to bid in advance of the auction and not the day of, as we cannot guarantee approval once the auction has begun.
Lot 195 - Printed cotton men's designer shirts, 1980s-90s
Sold for £182
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 196 - A Zandra Rhodes 'Punk Broderie' printed chiffon bodice, early 1980s
Sold for £234
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 197 - A Westwood/McLaren 'Savage' collection ensemble, Spring-Summer 1982
Sold for £494
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 198 - A Westwood/McLaren 'Savage' collection ensemble, Spring-Summer 1982
Sold for £585
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 199 - A Westwood/McLaren 'Savage' collection ensemble, Spring-Summer 1982
Sold for £312
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 200 - Three pairs of Vivienne Westwood re-issue 'Pirate' boots, 2000s
Sold for £442
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 201 - Westwood/ McLaren 'Nostalgia of Mud' (Buffalo) ensembles, Autumn-Winter 1982-83
Sold for £546
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 203 - A Katharine Hamnett 'Stay Alive in 85' silk T-shirt
Sold for £715
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 204 - A Karl Lagerfeld salmon pink wool trapezoid coat, 1980s
Sold for £390
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 205 - A Patricia Lester devoré evening dress, 1980s
Sold for £312
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 206 - A group of Jean-Paul Gaultier womenswear dating from the late 1980s
Sold for £247
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 207 - A Christian Dior by Frédéric Castet patchwork effect fur coat, 1980s
Sold for £2,470
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 208 - A group of Christian Dior lingerie, beachwear, mainly 1980s-90s
Sold for £455
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 209 - A group of Christian Dior summer-wear 1980s-early 90s
Sold for £416
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 210 - A Christian Dior cocktail dress, 1980s
Sold for £715
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 211 - A group of Christian Dior evening and outer-wear, mainly 1980s-90s
Sold for £260
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 212 - A Gianni Versace reversible suit, 1980s
Sold for £1,820
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 213 - A group of Christian Dior evening shoes, 1980-90s
Sold for £312
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 214 - A group of Christian Dior shoes, mainly 1980s
Sold for £182
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 215 - An Yves Saint Laurent quilted satin evening jacket, 1980s
Sold for £494
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 216 - A Geoffrey Beene quilted copper satin jacket, probably 1980s
Sold for £221
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 218 - A Christian Dior gold vinyl trench-coat, circa1989
Sold for £1,560
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 219 - A pair of Chrisitan Dior pyjamas, 1980s
Sold for £780
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 220 - A Jean Paul Gaultier printed jersey dress, circa 1985
Sold for £286
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 222 - A Christian Lacroix cocktail dress, late 1980s
Sold for £416
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 223 - A Madame Grès couture summer dress with capelets, circa 1980
Sold for £364
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 225 - A group of designer coats, 1980s-1990s
Sold for £780
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 226 - A group of summer and evening wear, 1980s
Sold for £520
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 227 - Westwood/McLaren Navajo patterned ensemble, 'Savage' collection, Spring-Summer, 1982
Sold for £7,150
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 228 - A Westwood/ McLaren 'Nostalgia of Mud' (Buffalo) layered ensemble, Autumn-Winter 1982-83
Sold for £1,040
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 230 - A Westwood/McLaren 'Pirate' ensemble, Autumn-Winter 1981-82
Sold for £4,940
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 231 - A pair of Westwood/McLaren 'Pirate' trousers, Autumn-Winter 1981-82
Sold for £1,105
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 233 - A Thea Porter couture bridal gown, 1980
Sold for £910
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 234 - A Helen Robinson for PX turquoise printed silk dress, early 1980s
Sold for £260
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 235 - A Christian Dior checked wool suit, late 1980s
Sold for £390
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 236 - A Thierry Mugler black leather jacket, 1980s
Sold for £845
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 237 - A group of Vivienne Westwood separates, 1980s-1990s
Sold for £390
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 238 - An Yves Saint Laurent wine shot-silk cocktail dress, 1980s
Sold for £598
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 239 - A Valentino couture cocktail dress, probably 1980s
Sold for £468
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 241 - A Courrèges elephant needlecord suit, 1970s
Sold for £442
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 243 - A Courrèges jumbo needlecord jumpsuit, circa 1970
Sold for £390
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 245 - An Ossie Clark for Radley black moss-crêpe dress, 1970s
Sold for £780
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 249 - A Debenham & Freebody 'scribble' printed wool coat, circa 1970
Sold for £234
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 250 - A Christian Dior by Marc Bohan black jersey dress, 1970s
Sold for £455
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 251 - A Christian Dior fold-over clutch bag, 1970s
Sold for £416
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 253 - A Catherine Buckley patchwork dress, 1971-72
Sold for £1,950
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 254 - A Catherine Buckley stencilled lace gown, 1970s
Sold for £1,105
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 255 - A Catherine Buckley black crêpe dress, late 1970s
Sold for £546
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 256 - A Lesley Sandra dress with devoré velvet sleeves and metallic leather yoke, 1970s
Sold for £845
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 257 - A Catherine Buckley printed lace and chiffon ensemble, early 1970s
Sold for £468
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 258 - A Westwood/McLaren Seditionaries "King Kong" t-shirt 1976
Sold for £1,235
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 259 - A Christian Dior cream felt hat 1975
Sold for £390
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 260 - Two pairs of Terry de Havilland snakeskin shoes, 1970s
Sold for £195
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 261 - A Christian Dior by Marc Bohan couture jacket, Spring-Summer 1971
Sold for £338
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 262 - A Valentino couture lace bridal/summer dress, 1970s
Sold for £1,235
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 264 - A Thea Porter couture beaded chiffon tunic-dress, 1979
Sold for £975
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 266 - Seven printed dresses, late 1960s-1970s
Sold for £845
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 267 - Two good Anna Belinda printed cotton dresses, 1970s
Sold for £715
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 268 - A group of colourful quilted and patchworked clothing, 1970s
Sold for £715
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 269 - A group of colourful printed clothing, late 1960s-1970s
Sold for £2,600
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 271 - A group of Yves Saint Laurent clothing, late 1960s-1990s
Sold for £780
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 272 - A Geoffrey Beene pinstriped herringbone tweed coat, 1970s
Sold for £598
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 273 - A Biba loveheart printed cotton dress, circa 1973
Sold for £715
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 274 - An Ossie Clark burgundy herringbone tweed jacket, circa 1970
Sold for £390
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 275 - A Group of Ossie Clark/Quorum and Biba separates, late 1960s-1970s
Sold for £416
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 275a - An Ossie Clark printed marocain blouse, 1970s
Sold for £416
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 276 - An Ossie Clark dark brown suede jacket, circa 1970
Sold for £364
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 277 - An Ossie Clark brown bouclé wool coat, 1970s
Sold for £260
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 278 - An Ossie Clark grey velvet 'Alice' coat, circa 1970
Sold for £780
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 279 - An Ossie Clark red silk crepe wrap-over dress, 1970s
Sold for £780
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 280 - An Ossie Clark black moss crepe suit, circa 1970
Sold for £650
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 281 - An Alice Pollock printed marocain dress, 1970s
Sold for £442
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 282 - A Zandra Rhodes pleated and printed rayon jacket, circa 1974
Sold for £312
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 283 - An Ossie Clark/Celia Birtwell for Radley 'Black-Eyed Susan' printed crêpe ensemble, 1970s
Sold for £715
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 284 - An Ossie Clark for Radley dress with daisy print by Celia Birtwell, 1970s
Sold for £1,105
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 285 - An Ossie Clark/Celia Birtwell for Radley printed chiffon dress, 1970s
Sold for £975
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 286 - Two Ossie Clark/Celia Birtwell for Radley printed chiffon dresses, 1970s
Sold for £910
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 287 - An Ossie Clark/Celia Birtwell for Quorum 'Pointillism' print chiffon blouse, 1970s
Sold for £975
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 288 - Three Ossie Clark/Celia Birtwell printed blouses, 1970s
Sold for £442
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)