Our first auction of the year is a bumper one - over 550 lots of vintage fashion, textiles and accessories – so hopefully something to interest everyone?
Stuck for something to wear to this year’s Met Gala Ball? Then look no further – see lot 183, the scarlet satin surrealist hat made to Karl Lagerfeld’s design by London milliner Kirstin Woodward in 1985. It is not only desirable as a wearable accessory but is also museum quality having previously been included in FIT’s Fashion & Surrealism exhibition, October 30, 1987-January 23, 1988. Isabelle Pascoe was photographed wearing a pink example for British Vogue, December, 1985. Vogue stated,
‘'A surreal trick of judgement with wild surmise. Surprise? Classic distortion, upholstery, plat du jour perch above the stark silhouette of something sexy and understated.'"
At Christmas, the fashion world lost its honorary Queen: Dame Vivienne Westwood and she is well represented in our sale. Highlights include Lot 160, the sleeved ‘Boucher’ corset, ‘Portrait’ collection, Autumn-Winter 1990-91, and Lot 184, which comprises a red velvet corset, ‘Harris Tweed’ collection, Autumn-Winter 1987-88 and rare ‘mini-crini’, Spring-Summer 1985. We even have a photograph showing the original beautiful owner wearing the corset, dancing the night away in the Kinky Gerlinky night club!
We offer the ‘Lucinda Portobello Collection, Part I’. Lucinda Alford was a major player in the London Vintage fashion scene for many decades. She was renowned for her exceptional eye and eclectic taste, which is evident throughout the rails filled with pretty 1930s floral chiffons, romantic Edwardian dresses, dreamy bohemian gowns and colourful prints, starkly contrasted by the brutal minimalism of pieces by one of Lucinda’s great loves: Martin Margiela.
Families gathering around their TV’s in the UK on Saturday nights during the 1960s would have been familiar with the Kaye Sisters who achieved huge fame during the late 50s and 60s with hits including 'Paper Roses’ and ‘Handed Down’. They performed in numerous Royal Command Performances at the London Palladium, as well as TV variety shows hosted by Max Bygraves and others. The three singers – Shan, Carole and Shiela, weren’t actually sisters but had matching blonde hairstyles to suggest a familial resemblance. Their preferred costumier was Douglas Darnell who also produced many of Shirley Bassey’s most glittering costumes. Shan Kaye’s razzle-dazzle stage outfits dripping in faux gems, shimmering with beads are lots 343-346.
We also feature a selection of fine antique costume & textiles from around the world, including Lot 554, a brocaded summer dragon robe - jifu, Chinese, circa 1900, Lot 539, an embroidered wool scarf, Zoroastrian, Yazd, Persia, 19th century.
We hope you enjoy browsing this sale as much as we have enjoyed creating it for you and look forward to assisting you with condition reports and bidding.
Morning session, lots 1-250, begins at 9.30am GMT. The afternoon session, lots 251-556, will begin at 2pm GMT.
For more information on how to bid, please click here. Live bidding is now possible via our website on sale day. In order to bid online, please ensure you have created an account with us and that your account is enabled for live bidding - new clients will need to email us a form of photo ID, proof of address and paid invoices from other auction houses where appropriate. Once you have created an account and have been approved to bid, please click the purple 'Pre-register for live bidding' button which will appear on the online catalogue before the sale. You then need to accept the terms and conditions to proceed. On the day of the sale, a button marked 'Bid live' will appear on the website and clicking this will allow you to access the live bidding platform. Please note that there is an additional 1.5% charge plus VAT for any lots won via our online bidding platform. Please also note that online bidding is automatically capped at £6,000 in total - if you envisage that you will exceed this amount, please contact us directly so we can remove the bidding cap - we may ask for further information from you before doing this.
Clients who prefer to bid via Invaluable still have this option and can access the catalogue here. Please note the charge for bidding online via the Invaluable platform is 3% plus VAT. We strongly advise that you register to bid in advance of the auction and not the day of, as we cannot guarantee approval once the auction has begun.
Lot 290 - A Loris Azzaro crochet mini dress, 1970
Sold for £975
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 291 - A Courrèges beige pinafore dress, circa 1970
Sold for £715
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 292 - A Loris Azzaro gilt chainmail and jersey evening dress, 1970s
Sold for £910
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 293 - A Janice Wainwright embroidered dress and top, 1970s
Sold for £390
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 294 - A Madame Grès orange wool coat, late 70s-early 80s
Sold for £416
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 295 - A Felisa-José Luis couture embroidered silk dress, 1975
Sold for £416
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 296 - A Bill Gibb ivory moss crepe evening gown, Autumn-Winter, 1972-73
Sold for £1,040
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 297 - A Thea Porter green and purple ribbed silk mantle, circa 1970
Sold for £234
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 298 - A group of Baccarat coats and suits, 1970s
Sold for £650
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 299 - A group of Terry de Havilland shoes, 1970s
Sold for £195
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 300 - A pair of Terry de Havilland snakeskin patchwork platform shoes, 1970s
Sold for £195
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 303 - A Biba sequined navy jersey midi dress, 1972
Sold for £715
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 304 - An Ossie Clark/Celia Birtwell for Radley printed chiffon dress, 1970s
Sold for £1,950
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 305 - An Ossie Clark for Radley red moss crepe dress, mid-1970s
Sold for £1,105
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 306 - A Yuki navy draped jersey dress, late 1970s
Sold for £195
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 307 - An Ossie Clark for Radley black moss crêpe dress, 1970s
Sold for £650
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 308 - A Catherine Buckley printed wool ensemble, early 1970s
Sold for £221
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 309 - A group of evening and dinnerwear, 1970s
Sold for £416
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 310 - Two Ossie Clark for Radley moss crêpe dresses, 1970s
Sold for £845
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 311 - An Ossie Clark/Celia Birtwell woven jacket, circa 1971
Sold for £182
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 312 - A Pierre Cardin printed wool pinafore dress, late 1960s
Sold for £208
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 314 - Nine cocktail dresses, late 1950s-early 1960s
Sold for £364
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 315 - A peacock-green satin evening coat, Hong Kong for the European market, circa 1960
Sold for £546
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 316 - A chartreuse and yellow fringed cocktail robe, probably 1960s
Sold for £1,300
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 317 - Biba and Ossie Clark, late 60s-early 70s
Sold for £910
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 319 - A good Mary Quant linen-blend mini-dress, circa 1965
Sold for £1,040
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 321 - An Emilio Pucci printed silk palazzo pants playsuit, late 1960s
Sold for £715
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 322 - Eleven cocktail dresses in mainly black and red, 1950s-1960s
Sold for £520
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 323 - A group of mainly London boutique clothing, late 60s-early 70s
Sold for £910
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 324 - A Christian Dior black cashmere single-breasted jacket, circa 1960
Sold for £286
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 325 - A rare and early Calvin Klein white matelassé double-breasted coat, 1968-69
Sold for £260
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 326 - A group of dresses and tailored garments, late 1960s-early 1970s
Sold for £260
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 327 - A group of printed and black clothing, late 1960s-early 70s
Sold for £247
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 328 - A Jean Varon stencilled chiffon gown, late 1960s
Sold for £494
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 329 - A Cordoba buff leather coat with brass 'key' fastenings, late 1960s
Sold for £364
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 330 - A Chloe mini dress, probably by Lagerfeld circa 1965
Sold for £468
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 331 - Beaded knitwear, mainly from America and Hong Kong, 1950s-early 60s
Sold for £390
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 332 - A Lord John of Carnaby Street men's military-inspired cape 1960s
Sold for £234
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 334 - An Yves Saint Laurent couture printed silk dress, Spring-Summer 1967
Sold for £286
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 335 - Three Ann Buck leather and suede ensembles, late 1960s-early 1970s
Sold for £624
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 336 - Two pairs of Christian Dior evening shoes, 1960s
Sold for £195
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 337 - Christian Dior shoes and bags, 1960s and later
Sold for £234
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 339 - Four pairs of Christian Dior day shoes, 1960s
Sold for £195
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 343 - Two of Shan Kaye's Douglas Darnell beaded stage ensembles, 1967
Sold for £312
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 344 - Two of Shan Kaye's Douglas Darnell stage suits, late 1970s
Sold for £468
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 345 - Shan Kaye's Douglas Darnell stage dress, late 1950s
Sold for £130
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 346 - Two of Shan Kaye's stage costumes, 1970s
Sold for £195
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 347 - An Ossie Clark black wool double-breasted "Dick Turpin" coat, circa 1969
Sold for £221
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 348 - A John Boyd flower bonnet, circa 1964
Sold for £169
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 349 - A Diorling floral printed crêpe playsuit, late 1960s
Sold for £338
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 350 - A Christian Dior ivory ziberline dress, circa 1966
Sold for £416
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 351 - A rare Courrèges white knitted wool catsuit, 1969
Sold for £5,200
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 352 - A Maison Worth evening gown, late 1960s
Sold for £364
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 353 - A Christian Dior brocatelle evening dress, circa 1960
Sold for £455
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 354 - A Christian Dior by Yves Saint Laurent couture silk evening coat, Autumn-Winter, 1960
Sold for £494
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 355 - A rare Lola Prusac embroidered jacket, late 1950s or early 60s
Sold for £195
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 356 - A Balenciaga couture ivory matelassé silk dress, 1964
Sold for £260
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 357 - A Jean Varon/ John Bates silver mini dress, 1965
Sold for £390
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 359 - A Givenchy couture oatmeal tweed suit, circa 1966
Sold for £195
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 360 - A rare Pierre Cardin modernist enamelled pendant, late 1960s
Sold for £260
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 361 - A Pierre Cardin choker necklace, late 1960s
Sold for £260
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 362 - A Pierre Cardin necklace, late 1960s
Sold for £130
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 363 - A group of interesting footwear and accessories, 1960s-1990s
Sold for £650
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 365 - A group of mainly crocheted garments, late 1960s-70s
Sold for £312
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 366 - A Pucci printed jersey dress, probably 1960s
Sold for £208
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 367 - A group of beaded and sequined knitwear, mainly made in Hong Kong, mostly 1960s
Sold for £247
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 368 - A group of Biba clothing late 60s-early 70s
Sold for £520
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 369 - A group of Biba garments, mainly late 1960s
Sold for £195
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 370 - A group of Biba summer-wear, 1966 - early 70s
Sold for £390
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 371 - A Biba pink jumbo-corduroy trench coat, 1969
Sold for £286
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 372 - A Biba black lace evening ensemble, 1969
Sold for £1,690
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 374 - A large group of eveningwear, 1960s-1970s
Sold for £338
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 375 - An Yves Saint Laurent couture black wool crêpe dress, 1960s
Sold for £468
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 376 - A group of women's evening wear, 1950s-60s
Sold for £286
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 377 - A group of cocktail and daywear, 1950s
Sold for £1,105
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 378 - A Pierre Cardin couture cloqué silk cocktail dress, circa 1958
Sold for £364
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 379 - A Christian Dior embroidered evening skirt, 1950s
Sold for £780
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 380 - A Rallie Health Appliances waist-slimming exercise belt, 1957
Sold for £260
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 381 - A Carven couture chiffon cocktail dress, 1950s
Sold for £156
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 382 - A Jean Patou couture black taffeta dinner dress, early 1950s
Sold for £260
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 383 - A group of novelty summer skirts, late 1950s-early 60s
Sold for £221
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 384 - A Jacques Heim navy and white check tweed ensemble, circa 1958
Sold for £468
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 385 - Twelve cocktail and summer dresses, 1950s-early 60s
Sold for £1,690
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)