10th Dec, 2024 9:00

Passion for Fashion

 
Lot 125
 

An important collection of Alexander McQueen original sketches, and Givenchy haute couture studio book, 1990s-2001

An important collection of Alexander McQueen original sketches, and Givenchy haute couture studio book, 1990s-2001

comprising: loose A4 original pencil and biro sketches: comprising: 11 menswear designs, probably made when a student at St Martins 1991-92, one signed and dated 91/92; 43 women's wear sketches in differing styles 1990s, including a spiked leather bodice and a bridal gown with ropes of pearls (54 in total)

Xeroxed fashion sketches for women and men, 1990s (15)

Givenchy haute couture Spring-Summer 2001 ‘World Tour' collection studio book , including Xerox and scanned designs: look no 15, checked suit with embroidery details; R2, suit with 'Fortuny' pleats and side laced boots with leather and fabric swatches; no 24, flamenco tiered dress and trousers with fabric swatches; corset ideas and boot ideas; no 25 raffia dress and shawl; no 26, xerox sketch of suede dress, image of an African woman in dress with similar fringes, leather samples and shoe ideas; no 27 image of Masai warriors and xerox of a jersey dress inspired by the draping of their robes; another xerox showing details of look 27; no 29 leather lace tiered dress with swatches; no 46 Prince of Wales checked dress with fabric swatch; no 32 - cellophane jacket with wood print (3); no 38 - blouse and skirt with multiple buckles; no 37 - ideas for a mud covered corset; no 22- design for a Chinese or Mongolian inspired jacket with photo inspiration; no 4 - sequined trouser ensemble; no 48- corset and trousers; no 45 - flared trousers; no 45 - blouse with lace gloves with fabric swatches; no 44- corseted black, white and red ensemble with fabric swatches; no 44 xerox of fabric; no 40 jersey self-lined body (2); no 45 two scanned striped fabric samples; nos 40 & 43 design of interlocking side rings for dress; no 43 dress sketch, image of an Alaia dress used as inspiration, shoe detail and leather, chiffon and feather samples; no 22 - herringbone tweed suit and fabric samples; no 19 - design and fabric image detail for mother of pearl button leggings and horn heel shoe; no 23 sketch and fabric swatch for brown cashmere jumpsuit and horn shoe sketch; associated scanned photograph of beadwork; no 30 red, white and flesh dress with fabric swatches; no 31 brown snakeskin dress sketch with leather sample; no 34 leather lace sail jacket panel; no 33 terracotta/mud coloured fringed dress and shoe detail; scanned photos of beadwork; no 35 prune taffeta top and skirt with lattice drapes and image of an African tribesman; image of tent panel in a desert; no 36 - wedding dress with Hurel organza swatches, details of jewels and embroidery; no 34 three scanned images of lace samples; no 38 - corseted dress with striped red and white skirt with fabric swatch; no 39 design for a cashmere knitted 'yashmac' and Middle Eastern inspiration image; no 40 snakeskin banded full length dress with leather swatch; no 47 checked Dormeuil suit; no 41 - dress with draping and a zebra print fabric inspiration; no 18 - coat with side buckles with 18th century inspiration images and fabric swatches; no 20 ‘diamond’ inset wedding dress sketch with jewellery details and separate page for no 36 with small fabric samples; no 20 sketch for a coin covered necklace, belt, and image of a Central Asian coin headdress, with a coin sample; no 13 sketch for horsehair skirt and layered blouse, frock coat; shoe, with fabric and leather swatches; no 17 distressed chocolate brown gauze jacket and breeches, with boot sketch and fabric samples; no 16 jump suit with coin neckpiece collar, boot design and fabric swatches; no 14 cashmere jump suit with African woman inspiration image; no 12 trouser suit in striped suiting with embroidered collar and knee, with fabric swatches and shoe designs; no 11 - corset and shoe details with fabric swatches; no 7 sketch of 18th century inspired frock coat with fabric swatches, ankle boot detail; no 5 - suit with amethyst glass beading with fabric , beads, ankle boot detail; no 8 – stretch body sketches, no 4 dress and jacket with buckled detailing with fabric swatches (2); no 5 body sketch; looks 40 and 48 pleats sketches; no 6 embroidered coat with corset, ankle boot detail with swatches; no 1 double breasted trouser suit with knotted back detail; no 9, pleated taffeta blouse with swatch; no 9, full suit sketch with indigo pleated blouse detail, fabric and leather swatches, ankle boot detail; R1 - double breasted suit; no 8 trouser suit and ankle boot sketch with fabric swatches; Scan of striped fabric; no 10 'Flamingo' suit with boot detail and image of birds; no 3 - scans of leather samples and shoe details

Polaroids mainly of the Givenchy fit model wearing toiles - grey double-breasted suit (2 views); look 30 - toile front and back (2) look 46 Prince of Wales checked dress front view; look 45 trouser and blouse toile (3); 45 - lace blouse with integral gloves;(5) look 44 toile of corseted top and trousers; look 33 toile for draped jump suit (2) look 31, front and back toile images of snakeskin dress (2); look 42 toile and porcupine quill necklace (3); look 13 trench coat dress toile (2); look 17 toile of jacket and breeches (2); look 14 cashmere jump suit toile with draped front; look 15 skirt suit toile (2); look 11 toile of jump suit with corset-like buckled belt; look 7 18th century inspired coat toile with broad belt; look 5, images of amethyst beaded trouser suit (2) look 6 coat toile (2); look 3 single breasted trouser suit toile (2), look 10 single breasted trouser suit toile (2); Lee with a drag artist in a fur bikini; semi-nude model photographed against a fireplace (23 in total)

Colour photographs - six various personal holiday snaps and one of the Galliano SS 1992 show (presumably taken by McQueen as a student); photo of interior of studio with wishing machine in one corner (qty)

Provenance: gifted by Lee Alexander McQueen to a member of his close family

The studio book is fascinating glimpse into McQueen’s method of working and the myriad inspirations for this his last haute couture show for Givenchy. The shown collection consisted of just 34 looks whereas the studio book reveals up to 47 original designs. The collection was presented to just 170 invited guests after Givenchy cancelled the larger scale official show. McQueen took as his inspiration a wide range of cultural influences including England, Scotland, Japan, native America, Africa, China, Amazonian tribes and others. The models had red-dusted visor-like makeup and finely plaited loops in their hair.

Sold for £26,000

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)


 

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Without prejudice to any rights that the Seller may have, if the Buyer without prior agreement fails to make payment for the lot within 5 working days of the auction,KT may in its sole discretion exercise 1 or more of the following remedies:-

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Kerry Taylor Auctions Ltd Authenticity Guarantee
If Kerry Taylor Auctions Ltd sells an item of Property which is later shown to be a “Counterfeit”, subject to the terms below Kerry Taylor Auctions Ltd will rescind the sale and refund the Buyer the total amount paid by the Buyer to Kerry Taylor Auctions Ltd for that Property, up to a maximum of the Purchase Price.

The Guarantee lasts for one (1) year after the date of the relevant auction, is for the benefit of the Buyer only and is non-transferable.

“Counterfeit” means an item of Property that in Kerry Taylor Auctions Ltd ‘s reasonable opinion is an imitation created with the intent to deceive over the authorship, origin, date, age, period, culture or source, where the correct description of such matters is not included in the catalogue description for the Property.
Property shall not be considered Counterfeit solely because of any damage and/or restoration and/or modification work .

Please note that this Guarantee does not apply if either:-
(i) the catalogue description was in accordance with the generally acceptedopinions of scholars and experts at the date of the sale, or the catalogue description indicated that there was a conflict of such opinions; or
(ii) the only method of establishing at the date of the sale that the item was a Counterfeit would have been by means of processes not then generally available or accepted, unreasonably expensive or impractical; or likely to have caused damage to or loss in value to the Property (in Kerry Taylor Auctions Ltd’s reasonable opinion); or
(iii) there has been no material loss in value of the Property from its value had it  accorded with its catalogue description.

To claim under this Guarantee, the Buyer must:-
(i) notify Kerry Taylor Auctions Ltd in writing within one (1) month of receiving any information that causes the Buyer to
question the authenticity or attribution of the Property, specifying the lot number,
date of the auction at which it was
purchased and the reasons why it is believed to be Counterfeit; and
(ii) return the Property to Kerry Taylor Auctions Ltd in the same condition as at the date of sale and be able to transfer good title in the Property, free from any third party claims arising after the date of the sale.

Kerry Taylor Auctions Ltd has discretion to waive any of the above requirements. Kerry Taylor Auctions Ltd may require the Buyer to obtain at the Buyer’s cost the reports of two independent and recognised experts in the relevant field. Kerry Taylor Auctions Ltd shall not be bound by any reports produced by the Buyer, and reserves the right to seek additional expert advice at its own expense. In the event Kerry Taylor Auctions Ltd decides to rescind the sale under this Guarantee, it may refund to the Buyer the reasonable costs of up to two mutually approved independent expert reports, provided always that the costs of such reports have been approved in advance and in writing by Kerry Taylor Auctions Ltd.

 

Last updated: 23rd May 2014

 
 

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