17th Jun, 2019 10:00 GMT+1/BST

Passion for Fashion

 
Lot 28
 

A fine and important 'grand habit de cour' bodice, French, 1765-75, of pale pink satin overlaid with scalloped bands of silver lace terminating at the front waist in an arrow-head shaped point, tabbed satin sides with cord piped edging, wide, curving neckline with short sleeves set far back over the rear shoulders to produce the desired rigid forward thrusting décoletté and bare shoulders, large metal hooks to the rear waist to take the court train, cotton braids to the waist sides for attaching to the petticoat, bust approx 76cm, 30in, waist 53.5cm, 21in



A grand habit de cour, or robe de cour (also called a robe de corpse by the British), was a stiff-bodied gown which was used as the formal court wear across much of Europe, and most particularly in France, throughout the 18th century. It consisted of a stiff, boned bodice, laced up the back, a skirt, (of varying shape) and a separate train worn either at the waist or falling from the shoulders and detachable lace sleeves. Additional stays were not worn (as with open robes) as the integral rigid boning within the bodice was more than sufficient to hold and constrict the figure to the desired silhouette.



Very few of these bodices have survived. Although made of rich fabrics, they were often also further adorned with real jewels including diamonds, so were frequently taken apart after their use was finished. The Swedish Royal collection includes three robe du cour bodices including a cloth of silver example - the wedding 'robe de cour' of Princess Sophia Magdalena of Denmark when she married Prince Gustav III of Sweden at the Palace Church, November 4th 1766, (Livrustkammeren Museum, Stockholm). Silver robes de cour were the standard wedding dresses for royal brides across Europe in the 18th century, including Empress Catherine the Great and Queen Marie Antoinette. An English cloth of gold robe de cour bodice of 1761 (Helen Larson collection) is included in the collection of FIDM. The Palais Galliera includes a pale blue silk 'corsette', of similar shape but un-boned of the 1780s which is believed to have belonged to Marie Antoinette in 1780-87. We are not aware of any other extant robe de cour bodices of this period.



Lot 28 also bears a striking similarity to that worn in a portrait of Maria Caroline of Naples (Marie Antoinette's elder sister) by Raphael Mengs, of 1768, the year of her marriage to King Ferdinand IV.



In France, the rigid bodice style was popularised during the reign of the Sun King - Louis XIV (1638-1715), who liked the women of his court to display as much décolleté and shoulders as was humanly possible. Thus, this highly restrictive but elegant garment became mandatory for all court occasions and continued to be worn in various forms until the late 18th century.



Colour was important. When debutantes were first formally presented to the monarch for the first time at court they wore a black, white or silver robe de cour, but afterwards were allowed to wear an example in a colour of their choice such as this lovely pink bodice.



The detachable train was also an indicator of the wearer's status: the longer the train, the higher the rank of its wearer. Although the shape of the bodice remained relatively unchanged throughout the 18th century (until the 1770s-80s when the neckline became more square), the matching skirts changed with the prevailing fashions of the day, ranging from slightly angular conical shape to enormous, wide rectangular skirts.



During the 1770s, Louis XVI, (at the instigation of Marie Antoinette who called the robe de cour 'obsolete and unbearable') allowed the rules to be slightly relaxed. The robe à la franais

Sold for £42,000

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)


 

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1. Introduction
(a) The contractual relationship of Kerry Taylor Auctions Ltd &. and Sellers with prospective Buyers is governed by:-
(i) these Conditions of Business for Buyers;
(ii) the Conditions of Business for Sellers displayed in the saleroom and available from Kerry Taylor Auctions Ltd;
(iii) Kerry Taylor Auctions Ltd’s Authenticity Guarantee;
(iv) any additional notices and terms printed in the sale catalogue, in each case as amended by any saleroom notice or auctioneer’s announcement.
(b) As auctioneer, Kerry Taylor Auctions Ltd acts as agent for the Seller. Occasionally, Kerry Taylor Auctions Ltd may own or have a financial interest in a lot.

2. Definitions
“Bidder” is any person making, attempting or considering making a bid, including Buyers;
“Buyer” is the person who makes the highest bid or offer accepted by the auctioneer, including a Buyer’s principal when bidding as agent;
“Seller” is the person offering a lot for sale, including their agent, or executors;
“KT” means Kerry Taylor Auctions Ltd of 249-253 Long Lane, Bermondsey, London, SE1 4PR, company number 7173571
“Buyer’s Expenses” are any costs or expenses due to Kerry Taylor Auctions from the Buyer;
“Buyer’s Premium” is the commission payable by the Buyer on the Hammer Price at the rates set out in the Guide for Prospective Buyers;
“Hammer Price” is the highest bid for the Property accepted by the auctioneer at the auction or the post auction sale price;
“Purchase Price” is the Hammer Price plus applicable Buyer’s Premium and Buyer’s Expenses;
“Reserve Price” (where applicable) is the minimum Hammer Price at which the Seller has agreed to sell a lot.

The Buyer’s Premium, Buyer’s Expenses and Hammer Price are subject to VAT, where applicable.

3. Examination of Lots
(a) KT’s knowledge of lots is partly dependent on information provided by the Seller and KT is unable to exercise exhaustive due diligence on each lot. Each lot is available for examination before sale. Bidders are responsible for carrying out examinations and research before sale to satisfy themselves over the condition of lots and accuracy of descriptions.
(b) All oral and/or written information provided to Bidders relating to lots, including descriptions in the catalogue, condition reports or elsewhere are statements of KT’s opinion and not representations of fact. Estimates may not be relied on as a prediction of the selling price or value of the lot and may be revised from time to time at KT’s absolute discretion.

4. Exclusions and limitations of liability to Buyers
(a) KT shall refund the Purchase Price to the Buyer in circumstances where it deems that the lot is a Counterfeit, subject to the terms of KT’s Authenticity Guarantee.
(b) Subject to Condition 4(a), neither KT nor the Seller:-
(i) is liable for any errors or omissions in any oral or written information provided to Bidders by KT, whether negligent or otherwise;
(ii) gives any guarantee or warranty to Bidders and any implied warranties and conditions are excluded (save in so far as such obligations cannot be excluded by English law), other than the express warranties given by the Seller to the Buyer (for which the Seller is solely responsible) under the Conditions of Business for Sellers;
(iii) accepts responsibility to Bidders for acts or omissions (whether negligent or otherwise) by KT in connection with the conduct of auctions or for any matter relating to the sale of any lot.
(c) Without prejudice to Condition 4(b), any claim against KT and/ or the Seller by a Bidder is limited to the Purchase Price for the relevant lot. Neither KT nor the Seller shall be liable for any indirect or consequential losses.
(d) Nothing in Condition 4 shall exclude or limit the liability of KT or the Seller for death or personal injury caused by the negligent acts or omissions of KT or the Seller.

5. Bidding at Auction
(a) KT has absolute discretion to refuse admission to the auction. Before sale, Bidders must complete a Registration Form and supply such information and references as KT requires. Bidders are personally liable for their bid and are jointly and severally liable with their principal, if bidding as agent (in which case KT’s prior and express consent must be obtained).
(b) KT advises Bidders to attend the auction, but KT will endeavour to execute absentee written bids provided that they are, in KT’s opinion, received in sufficient time and in legible form.
(c) When available, written and telephone bidding is offered as a free service at the Bidder’s risk and subject to KT’s other commitments; KT is therefore not liable for failure to execute such bids. Telephone bidding may be recorded.

6. Import, Export and Copyright Restrictions
KT and the Seller make no representations or warranties as to whether any lot is subject to import, export or copyright restrictions. It is the Buyer’s sole responsibility to obtain any copyright clearance or any necessary import, export or other licence required by law, including licenses required under the Convention on the International Trade in Endangered Species (CITES).

7. Conduct of the Auction
(a) The auctioneer has discretion to refuse bids, withdraw or re-offer lots for sale (including after the fall of the hammer) if (s)he believes that there may be an error or dispute, and may also take such other action as (s)he reasonably deems necessary.
(b) The auctioneer will commence and advance the bidding in such increments as (s)he considers appropriate and is entitled to place bids on the Seller’s behalf up to the Reserve Price for the lot, where applicable.
(c) Subject to Condition 7(a), the contract between the Buyer and the Seller is concluded on the striking of the auctioneer’s hammer.
(d) Any post-auction sale of lots shall incorporate these Conditions of Business.

8. Payment and Collection
(a) Unless otherwise agreed in advance, payment of the Purchase Price is due in pounds sterling immediately after the auction (the “Payment Date”). If paying by bank wire, any bank fees must be added so that the final amount received is not less than the invoice total.
(b) Title in a lot will not pass to the Buyer until KT has received the Purchase Price in cleared funds. KT will generally not release a lot to a Buyer before payment. Earlier release shall not affect passing of title or the Buyer’s obligation to pay the Purchase Price, as above.
(c) The refusal of any licence or permit required by law, as outlined in Condition 6, shall not affect the Buyer’s obligation to pay for the lot, as per Condition 8(a).
(d) The Buyer must arrange collection of lots within 10 working days of the auction. Purchased lots are at the Buyer’s risk from the earliest of (i) collection or (ii) 10 working days after the auction. Until risk passes, KT will compensate the Buyer for any loss or damage to the lot up to a maximum of the Purchase Price actually paid by the Buyer. KT’s assumption of risk is subject to the exclusions detailed in Condition 5(d) of the Conditions of Business for Sellers.
(e) All packing and handling of lots is at the Buyer’s risk. KT will not be liable for any acts or omissions of third party packers or shippers.

9. Remedies for non-payment
Without prejudice to any rights that the Seller may have, if the Buyer without prior agreement fails to make payment for the lot within 5 working days of the auction,KT may in its sole discretion exercise 1 or more of the following remedies:-

(a) store the lot at its premises or elsewhere at the Buyer’s sole risk and expense;
(b) cancel the sale of the lot;
(c) set off any amounts owed to the Buyer by KT against any amounts owed to KT by the Buyer for the lot;
(d) reject future bids from the Buyer;
(e) charge interest at 4% per annum above The Bank of England’s Base Rate from the Payment Date to the date that the Purchase Price is received in cleared funds;
(f) re-sell the lot by auction or privately, with estimates and reserves at KT’s discretion, in which case the Buyer will
be liable for any shortfall between the original Purchase Price and the amount achieved on re-sale, including all costs incurred in such re-sale;(g) exercise a lien over any Buyer’s Property in KT’s possession, applying the sale proceeds to any amounts owed by the Buyer to KT. KT shall give the Buyer 14 days written notice before exercising such lien;
(h) commence legal proceedings to recover the Purchase Price for the lot, plus interest and legal costs;
(i) disclose the Buyer’s details to the Seller to enable the Seller to commence legal proceedings.
(j) disclose the Buyer’s details to other auction houses and any third parties as we see fit

10. Failure to collect purchases
(a) If the Buyer pays the Purchase Price but does not collect the lot within 14 working days of the auction, the lot will be stored at the Buyer’s expense and risk at KT’s premises or in independent storage.
(b) If a lot is paid for but uncollected within 6 months of the auction, following 60 days written notice to the Buyer, KT will re-sell the lot by auction or privately, with estimates and reserves at KT’s discretion. The sale proceeds, less all KT’s costs, will be forfeited unless collected by the Buyer within 2 years of the original auction.

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(a) KT will use information supplied by Bidders or otherwise obtained lawfully by KT for the provision of auction related services, client administration, marketing and as otherwise required by law.
(b) By agreeing to these Conditions of Business, the Bidder agrees to the processing of their personal information and to the disclosure of such information to third parties world-wide for the purposes outlined in Condition 11(a) and to Sellers as per Condition 9(i).

12. Miscellaneous
(a) All images of lots, catalogue descriptions and all other materials produced by KT are the copyright of KT.
(b) These Conditions of Business are not assignable by any Buyer without KT’s prior written consent, but are binding on Bidders’ successors, assigns and representatives.
(c) The materials listed in Condition 1(a) set out the entire agreement between the parties.
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(e) These Conditions of Business shall be interpreted in accordance with English Law, under the exclusive jurisdiction of the English Courts, in favour of KT

Kerry Taylor Auctions Ltd Authenticity Guarantee
If Kerry Taylor Auctions Ltd sells an item of Property which is later shown to be a “Counterfeit”, subject to the terms below Kerry Taylor Auctions Ltd will rescind the sale and refund the Buyer the total amount paid by the Buyer to Kerry Taylor Auctions Ltd for that Property, up to a maximum of the Purchase Price.

The Guarantee lasts for one (1) year after the date of the relevant auction, is for the benefit of the Buyer only and is non-transferable.

“Counterfeit” means an item of Property that in Kerry Taylor Auctions Ltd ‘s reasonable opinion is an imitation created with the intent to deceive over the authorship, origin, date, age, period, culture or source, where the correct description of such matters is not included in the catalogue description for the Property.
Property shall not be considered Counterfeit solely because of any damage and/or restoration and/or modification work .

Please note that this Guarantee does not apply if either:-
(i) the catalogue description was in accordance with the generally acceptedopinions of scholars and experts at the date of the sale, or the catalogue description indicated that there was a conflict of such opinions; or
(ii) the only method of establishing at the date of the sale that the item was a Counterfeit would have been by means of processes not then generally available or accepted, unreasonably expensive or impractical; or likely to have caused damage to or loss in value to the Property (in Kerry Taylor Auctions Ltd’s reasonable opinion); or
(iii) there has been no material loss in value of the Property from its value had it  accorded with its catalogue description.

To claim under this Guarantee, the Buyer must:-
(i) notify Kerry Taylor Auctions Ltd in writing within one (1) month of receiving any information that causes the Buyer to
question the authenticity or attribution of the Property, specifying the lot number,
date of the auction at which it was
purchased and the reasons why it is believed to be Counterfeit; and
(ii) return the Property to Kerry Taylor Auctions Ltd in the same condition as at the date of sale and be able to transfer good title in the Property, free from any third party claims arising after the date of the sale.

Kerry Taylor Auctions Ltd has discretion to waive any of the above requirements. Kerry Taylor Auctions Ltd may require the Buyer to obtain at the Buyer’s cost the reports of two independent and recognised experts in the relevant field. Kerry Taylor Auctions Ltd shall not be bound by any reports produced by the Buyer, and reserves the right to seek additional expert advice at its own expense. In the event Kerry Taylor Auctions Ltd decides to rescind the sale under this Guarantee, it may refund to the Buyer the reasonable costs of up to two mutually approved independent expert reports, provided always that the costs of such reports have been approved in advance and in writing by Kerry Taylor Auctions Ltd.

 

Last updated: 23rd May 2014

 
 

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