Starts 9th Sep, 2024 9:00 GMT+1/BST
Ending 16th Sep, 2024 19:16 GMT+1/BST

Biba Girl! - Featuring The Pari Collection (online only auction)

 
  Lot 17
 

A Biba chestnut crushed devoré velvet ensemble, circa 1969

woven Art Nouveau labels, hand numbered 'Biba 207, 208A and 208B, comprising a coat patterned with abstract scale-like designs, with self-ties to front; a matching A-line maxi skirt, waist 71cm 28in, a pink satin blouse printed with white abstract designs, with half placket, self-covered buttons, voluminous sleeves, bust 86cm 34in (3)

The Pari Collection

This ensemble is photographed in A.W. Turner, The Biba Experience, 2004, p.141

Estimate
£500 - £700
 

Buyer's premium: 25.00% (exclusive of VAT)

Starting bid:
£450
(this item has a reserve)
 
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Auction: Biba Girl! - Featuring The Pari Collection (online only auction), ending 16th Sep, 2024

 

To mark the 60th anniversary of the opening of Biba’s first boutique on 87 Abingdon Road, this September Kerry Taylor Auctions celebrates all things Biba. We feature a week-long online-only auction and exhibition of Biba clothes, accessories and ephemera, and will be hosting and collaborating on several special events throughout the week.

The auction opens for bidding at 9:00 am on Monday the 9th of September and will begin closing at 7:00 pm on Monday the 16th. Comprising over 160 lots the sale spans Biba’s history– from its inception as a mail-order boutique to the multi-sensory extravagance of the Big Biba store on Kensington High Street.

Biba is regarded as one of Britain’s most important fashion brands, not only because of the innovative L-darted busts, unusual sleeve shapes and dazzling fabrics that illuminated the British fashion scene at such a vital time of change but also due to its influence on how fashion companies conduct business that is still reflected in the high street today.

After starting a mail-order boutique in 1963 (named Biba after the designer’s sister), Barbara Hulanicki was featured in the Daily Mirror alongside one of her dresses. A simple gingham design with a matching headscarf. This outfit captured the imagination of a generation, eventually amassing a staggering 17,000 orders. Hulanicki opened the first Biba store in September 1964 on 87 Abington Road and within 16 months had moved to a larger premises at 19-21 Kensington Church Street (where Vogue editor Anna Wintour famously used to work on Saturdays). The clothes were imaginative, colourful, young, and affordable – a democratizing force in fashion that shaped the way people of all backgrounds could suddenly choose to dress. Hulanicki’s designs had broad references taken from Edwardian night shirts, to Cossack uniforms and the Renaissance, yet she kept them exuberantly contemporary – her clothes were ‘happening’. And while other copycat boutiques began to pop-up all over London, Barbara stayed ahead of the curve.

On the 10th of September 1973 Barbara opened Big Biba, a vast and ambitious project that spanned the 100,000 square foot, seven-floor building of the old Derry & Toms department store at 99-117 Kensington High Street. The space transcended the prevailing ideas of what a clothing store was, instead becoming a multi-sensory experience and destination. The original building was created in the Art Deco style but the interiors, designed by Tim Whitmore and Steve Thomas, drew from various sources such as Victorian, Art Nouveau, Art Deco, pop art and post-modernism, the lighting was low and each floor became an immersive environment that complemented its specific contents. There was a ‘Lolita’ children’s floor replete with toadstools, a maternity section featuring comically outsized furniture and for menswear they included a ‘mistress’ area where men could discreetly peruse more sensual items. And then there was the dazzling multi-coloured rainbow room – a celebrity hotspot billed as a place to ‘eat, drink, meet friends, dance and be happy in’, that attracted the likes of David Bowie, Mick Jagger and Bryan Ferry. It was the first ‘lifestyle’ store in London selling everything from cane furniture and slippery satin sheets to dog food. On top of the building stood an immense roof garden, which (thanks to it becoming Grade II listed) still retains many of its original features today. Sprawling over 1.5 acres, well-heeled guests relaxed there for afternoon tea amongst the resident flamingos and against the iconic skyline of the Swinging City. Big Biba was not a shop, it was an entire universe, and being a ‘Biba Girl’ became a full-time lifestyle.

While Biba closed its doors in 1975 after changes to the management structure of Biba Ltd, the spirit and innovations of Hulanicki’s work live on. In 2010 she was acknowledged by the New York Times as being the inventor of fast fashion and it has often been noted that major brands such as Topshop and Zara owe the ambitious nature of their business models to her. The recent retrospective curated by Martin Pel at the Fashion and Textiles Museum in Bermondsey has seen record numbers coming through their doors and as testament to the prevailing allure of the designs, many people continue to collect Biba clothes today. Viva la Biba!

The Pari Collection

Pari first came across Biba in the 1980s at a stall on Portobello Road Market. She was held spellbound by the striking cut of a 1974 brown double-breasted jacket with exaggerated shoulders and saved up to pay for it in instalments every week. What began as fascination soon grew into an obsession and Pari has since amassed one of the largest private collections of Biba clothes, shoes, accessories, cosmetics and ephemera in the world; even becoming the subject of books, newspaper articles and TV-shows. We are delighted that 147 of the lots in this auction come from her world-renowned wardrobe.

 

Public Viewing times

Monday 9th September – 11am-5pm

Tuesday 10th September – 10am-5pm

Wednesday 11th September 10am-5pm

Thursday 12th September - Closed for School of Historical dress event

Friday 13th September 10am-5pm (some items may not be viewable on this day)

Saturday 14th September - Closed

Sunday 15th September – 12pm-5pm

Monday 16th September – 10am-5pm

 

Special Events

To coincide with the historic Biba anniversary and to celebrate Barbara Hulanicki’s brief return to London we have organised and collaborated on the following events:

An Evening With Barbara Hulanicki, Biba book preview and Biba Girl! exhibition
Tuesday 10th September, 6-9pm (anniversary of the opening of Big Biba on Kensington High Street)
A private reception at our saleroom where the Biba designer will converse with curator and author Martin Pel, discussing some of her favourite pieces from the Biba Girl! Auction. Copies of Barbara and Martin’s new book, Biba: The Fashion Brand that Defined a Generation, signed by the authors, will be available to buy on the night. Pari will also be available to discuss aspects of her collection. This event is by invitation only and is now full.

The content, cut, construction & context of Biba garments, 1968–73 
Thursday 12th September, 10am-6pm
Join Jenny Tiramani and Claire Thornton from The School of Historical Dress at the KTA saleroom to learn about the innovative techniques employed to make iconic Biba garments and acquire the knowledge to make your own. Tickets Available HERE

 

Viewing

Monday 9th September – 11am-5pm

Tuesday 10th September – 10am-5pm

Wednesday 11th September 10am-5pm

Thursday 12th September - Closed for School of Historical dress event

Friday 13th September 10am-5pm (some items may not be viewable on this day)

Saturday 14th September - Closed

Sunday 15th September – 12pm-5pm

Monday 16th September – 10am-5pm

View all lots in this sale

Terms & Conditions

1. Introduction
(a) The contractual relationship of Kerry Taylor Auctions Ltd &. and Sellers with prospective Buyers is governed by:-
(i) these Conditions of Business for Buyers;
(ii) the Conditions of Business for Sellers displayed in the saleroom and available from Kerry Taylor Auctions Ltd;
(iii) Kerry Taylor Auctions Ltd’s Authenticity Guarantee;
(iv) any additional notices and terms printed in the sale catalogue, in each case as amended by any saleroom notice or auctioneer’s announcement.
(b) As auctioneer, Kerry Taylor Auctions Ltd acts as agent for the Seller. Occasionally, Kerry Taylor Auctions Ltd may own or have a financial interest in a lot.

2. Definitions
“Bidder” is any person making, attempting or considering making a bid, including Buyers;
“Buyer” is the person who makes the highest bid or offer accepted by the auctioneer, including a Buyer’s principal when bidding as agent;
“Seller” is the person offering a lot for sale, including their agent, or executors;
“KT” means Kerry Taylor Auctions Ltd of 249-253 Long Lane, Bermondsey, London, SE1 4PR, company number 7173571
“Buyer’s Expenses” are any costs or expenses due to Kerry Taylor Auctions from the Buyer;
“Buyer’s Premium” is the commission payable by the Buyer on the Hammer Price at the rates set out in the Guide for Prospective Buyers;
“Hammer Price” is the highest bid for the Property accepted by the auctioneer at the auction or the post auction sale price;
“Purchase Price” is the Hammer Price plus applicable Buyer’s Premium and Buyer’s Expenses;
“Reserve Price” (where applicable) is the minimum Hammer Price at which the Seller has agreed to sell a lot.

The Buyer’s Premium, Buyer’s Expenses and Hammer Price are subject to VAT, where applicable.

3. Examination of Lots
(a) KT’s knowledge of lots is partly dependent on information provided by the Seller and KT is unable to exercise exhaustive due diligence on each lot. Each lot is available for examination before sale. Bidders are responsible for carrying out examinations and research before sale to satisfy themselves over the condition of lots and accuracy of descriptions.
(b) All oral and/or written information provided to Bidders relating to lots, including descriptions in the catalogue, condition reports or elsewhere are statements of KT’s opinion and not representations of fact. Estimates may not be relied on as a prediction of the selling price or value of the lot and may be revised from time to time at KT’s absolute discretion.

4. Exclusions and limitations of liability to Buyers
(a) KT shall refund the Purchase Price to the Buyer in circumstances where it deems that the lot is a Counterfeit, subject to the terms of KT’s Authenticity Guarantee.
(b) Subject to Condition 4(a), neither KT nor the Seller:-
(i) is liable for any errors or omissions in any oral or written information provided to Bidders by KT, whether negligent or otherwise;
(ii) gives any guarantee or warranty to Bidders and any implied warranties and conditions are excluded (save in so far as such obligations cannot be excluded by English law), other than the express warranties given by the Seller to the Buyer (for which the Seller is solely responsible) under the Conditions of Business for Sellers;
(iii) accepts responsibility to Bidders for acts or omissions (whether negligent or otherwise) by KT in connection with the conduct of auctions or for any matter relating to the sale of any lot.
(c) Without prejudice to Condition 4(b), any claim against KT and/ or the Seller by a Bidder is limited to the Purchase Price for the relevant lot. Neither KT nor the Seller shall be liable for any indirect or consequential losses.
(d) Nothing in Condition 4 shall exclude or limit the liability of KT or the Seller for death or personal injury caused by the negligent acts or omissions of KT or the Seller.

5. Bidding at Auction
(a) KT has absolute discretion to refuse admission to the auction. Before sale, Bidders must complete a Registration Form and supply such information and references as KT requires. Bidders are personally liable for their bid and are jointly and severally liable with their principal, if bidding as agent (in which case KT’s prior and express consent must be obtained).
(b) KT advises Bidders to attend the auction, but KT will endeavour to execute absentee written bids provided that they are, in KT’s opinion, received in sufficient time and in legible form.
(c) When available, written and telephone bidding is offered as a free service at the Bidder’s risk and subject to KT’s other commitments; KT is therefore not liable for failure to execute such bids. Telephone bidding may be recorded.

6. Import, Export and Copyright Restrictions
KT and the Seller make no representations or warranties as to whether any lot is subject to import, export or copyright restrictions. It is the Buyer’s sole responsibility to obtain any copyright clearance or any necessary import, export or other licence required by law, including licenses required under the Convention on the International Trade in Endangered Species (CITES).

7. Conduct of the Auction
(a) The auctioneer has discretion to refuse bids, withdraw or re-offer lots for sale (including after the fall of the hammer) if (s)he believes that there may be an error or dispute, and may also take such other action as (s)he reasonably deems necessary.
(b) The auctioneer will commence and advance the bidding in such increments as (s)he considers appropriate and is entitled to place bids on the Seller’s behalf up to the Reserve Price for the lot, where applicable.
(c) Subject to Condition 7(a), the contract between the Buyer and the Seller is concluded on the striking of the auctioneer’s hammer.
(d) Any post-auction sale of lots shall incorporate these Conditions of Business.

8. Payment and Collection
(a) Unless otherwise agreed in advance, payment of the Purchase Price is due in pounds sterling immediately after the auction (the “Payment Date”). If paying by bank wire, any bank fees must be added so that the final amount received is not less than the invoice total.
(b) Title in a lot will not pass to the Buyer until KT has received the Purchase Price in cleared funds. KT will generally not release a lot to a Buyer before payment. Earlier release shall not affect passing of title or the Buyer’s obligation to pay the Purchase Price, as above.
(c) The refusal of any licence or permit required by law, as outlined in Condition 6, shall not affect the Buyer’s obligation to pay for the lot, as per Condition 8(a).
(d) The Buyer must arrange collection of lots within 10 working days of the auction. Purchased lots are at the Buyer’s risk from the earliest of (i) collection or (ii) 10 working days after the auction. Until risk passes, KT will compensate the Buyer for any loss or damage to the lot up to a maximum of the Purchase Price actually paid by the Buyer. KT’s assumption of risk is subject to the exclusions detailed in Condition 5(d) of the Conditions of Business for Sellers.
(e) All packing and handling of lots is at the Buyer’s risk. KT will not be liable for any acts or omissions of third party packers or shippers.

9. Remedies for non-payment
Without prejudice to any rights that the Seller may have, if the Buyer without prior agreement fails to make payment for the lot within 5 working days of the auction,KT may in its sole discretion exercise 1 or more of the following remedies:-

(a) store the lot at its premises or elsewhere at the Buyer’s sole risk and expense;
(b) cancel the sale of the lot;
(c) set off any amounts owed to the Buyer by KT against any amounts owed to KT by the Buyer for the lot;
(d) reject future bids from the Buyer;
(e) charge interest at 4% per annum above The Bank of England’s Base Rate from the Payment Date to the date that the Purchase Price is received in cleared funds;
(f) re-sell the lot by auction or privately, with estimates and reserves at KT’s discretion, in which case the Buyer will
be liable for any shortfall between the original Purchase Price and the amount achieved on re-sale, including all costs incurred in such re-sale;(g) exercise a lien over any Buyer’s Property in KT’s possession, applying the sale proceeds to any amounts owed by the Buyer to KT. KT shall give the Buyer 14 days written notice before exercising such lien;
(h) commence legal proceedings to recover the Purchase Price for the lot, plus interest and legal costs;
(i) disclose the Buyer’s details to the Seller to enable the Seller to commence legal proceedings.
(j) disclose the Buyer’s details to other auction houses and any third parties as we see fit

10. Failure to collect purchases
(a) If the Buyer pays the Purchase Price but does not collect the lot within 14 working days of the auction, the lot will be stored at the Buyer’s expense and risk at KT’s premises or in independent storage.
(b) If a lot is paid for but uncollected within 6 months of the auction, following 60 days written notice to the Buyer, KT will re-sell the lot by auction or privately, with estimates and reserves at KT’s discretion. The sale proceeds, less all KT’s costs, will be forfeited unless collected by the Buyer within 2 years of the original auction.

11. Data Protection
(a) KT will use information supplied by Bidders or otherwise obtained lawfully by KT for the provision of auction related services, client administration, marketing and as otherwise required by law.
(b) By agreeing to these Conditions of Business, the Bidder agrees to the processing of their personal information and to the disclosure of such information to third parties world-wide for the purposes outlined in Condition 11(a) and to Sellers as per Condition 9(i).

12. Miscellaneous
(a) All images of lots, catalogue descriptions and all other materials produced by KT are the copyright of KT.
(b) These Conditions of Business are not assignable by any Buyer without KT’s prior written consent, but are binding on Bidders’ successors, assigns and representatives.
(c) The materials listed in Condition 1(a) set out the entire agreement between the parties.
(d) If any part of these Conditions of Business be held unenforceable, the remaining parts shall remain in full force and effect.
(e) These Conditions of Business shall be interpreted in accordance with English Law, under the exclusive jurisdiction of the English Courts, in favour of KT

Kerry Taylor Auctions Ltd Authenticity Guarantee
If Kerry Taylor Auctions Ltd sells an item of Property which is later shown to be a “Counterfeit”, subject to the terms below Kerry Taylor Auctions Ltd will rescind the sale and refund the Buyer the total amount paid by the Buyer to Kerry Taylor Auctions Ltd for that Property, up to a maximum of the Purchase Price.

The Guarantee lasts for one (1) year after the date of the relevant auction, is for the benefit of the Buyer only and is non-transferable.

“Counterfeit” means an item of Property that in Kerry Taylor Auctions Ltd ‘s reasonable opinion is an imitation created with the intent to deceive over the authorship, origin, date, age, period, culture or source, where the correct description of such matters is not included in the catalogue description for the Property.
Property shall not be considered Counterfeit solely because of any damage and/or restoration and/or modification work .

Please note that this Guarantee does not apply if either:-
(i) the catalogue description was in accordance with the generally acceptedopinions of scholars and experts at the date of the sale, or the catalogue description indicated that there was a conflict of such opinions; or
(ii) the only method of establishing at the date of the sale that the item was a Counterfeit would have been by means of processes not then generally available or accepted, unreasonably expensive or impractical; or likely to have caused damage to or loss in value to the Property (in Kerry Taylor Auctions Ltd’s reasonable opinion); or
(iii) there has been no material loss in value of the Property from its value had it  accorded with its catalogue description.

To claim under this Guarantee, the Buyer must:-
(i) notify Kerry Taylor Auctions Ltd in writing within one (1) month of receiving any information that causes the Buyer to
question the authenticity or attribution of the Property, specifying the lot number,
date of the auction at which it was
purchased and the reasons why it is believed to be Counterfeit; and
(ii) return the Property to Kerry Taylor Auctions Ltd in the same condition as at the date of sale and be able to transfer good title in the Property, free from any third party claims arising after the date of the sale.

Kerry Taylor Auctions Ltd has discretion to waive any of the above requirements. Kerry Taylor Auctions Ltd may require the Buyer to obtain at the Buyer’s cost the reports of two independent and recognised experts in the relevant field. Kerry Taylor Auctions Ltd shall not be bound by any reports produced by the Buyer, and reserves the right to seek additional expert advice at its own expense. In the event Kerry Taylor Auctions Ltd decides to rescind the sale under this Guarantee, it may refund to the Buyer the reasonable costs of up to two mutually approved independent expert reports, provided always that the costs of such reports have been approved in advance and in writing by Kerry Taylor Auctions Ltd.

 

Last updated: 23rd May 2014

 
 

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