21st Jun, 2022 14:00 GMT+1/BST

Passion for Fashion

 
  Lot 293
 

A Christian Dior couture by Marc Bohan debutante gown, 1964

worn by Miss Jessica Kitson, July 16, 1964, when presented at court to H.M. The Queen, unlabelled, with integral boned mesh corset, broad grosgrain inner waistband, the strapless sheath of ivory organza embroidered overall with empire-style floral swags and sprigs incorporating bugle and seed beads, shaped gold paillettes, facetted white plastic beads, the sprigs with raised-work petals, embroidered with ivory silk mouliné threads, with organza and faille petticoats, one with crin stiffened hem, bust approx 86cm, 34in; together with her white tulle presentation veil (2)

This gown was specially commissioned from Christian Dior by Mr J Paul Getty for Miss Jessica Kitson's court presentation. Her mother Mrs Penelope Kitson was a close friend and companion to Getty. A beautiful, elegantly statuesque woman (she was 6ft 3in tall) with a long neck, she was dressed head to toe in Dior. After an unpleasant experience at UK customs she made it her habit to remove labels from her couture clothes.

Penelope shared Getty's English home Sutton Place and although he repeatedly proposed marriage to her, she always refused him. Her daughter Jessica was also a beauty and made a career as a model during the 1960s. For her court presentation no expense was spared, as evidenced by this beautiful gown. The filmy column of organza with its elegant empire line is covered in three-dimensional Lesage embroidery - the patterns inspired by neoclassical motifs.

Jessica Kitson's debutante ball was reported in the New York Times, July 17, 1964:

'Debutante Given Party in England At Getty's Estate; Jessica Kitson Honored in Baronial Splendor of Sutton Place

LONDON, July 16—The baronial splendor of Sutton Place, a massive Tudor country estate that belongs to J. Paul Getty, the American billionaire, was the setting tonight for a debut party in honor of Jessica Kitson, a long‐legged, dark‐haired and lively young English woman.

Miss Kitson, daughter of Mrs. Penelope Kitson, and 700 of her friends gathered amid the priceless paintings, antique furniture, works of art and tapestries to dine and dance far into the night. They also ventured into the formal gardens, which are centered by an impressive (and tempting) rose‐fringed swimming pool.

Mr. Getty, who actually was a guest in his own house, lent the stately mansion to Mrs. Kitson. She is an interior decorator. And it was the debutante's tall brunette mother who saw to the party preparations.

A marquee, traditional at such gatherings, was covered with black paper as a backdrop for an arrangement of paintings depicting the life and people in what was said to be a Portuguese fishing village.

The party, which started at 10:30 P.M. and blazed on until sunrise, was one of the liveliest in the London area's seasonal merry‐go‐round of balls. Four fifths of the guests were of the same vintage as 17‐year-old Miss Kitson, many of them classmates from the exclusive girls' school, Hatherop Castle, which she attended. Both the debutante and her mother wore white dresses with beaded tops.

The girls, after fluffing out their long skirts and giving a quick peek at their faces, drifted off to dance the shake while the older generation, which included Sir John Rothenstein, Nubar Gulbenkian, the Duke and Duchess of Bedford and Prince Alexander Romanoff, helped themselves to a flow of champagne that was being poured nonstop by four bartenders to satisfy the thirst provoked by a very hot day.

Most of the debutantes, who were quickly drawn to an outdoor barbecue, where steaks and sausages were being grilled, chose colored evening dresses with empire waistlines. There were a daring few who wore wigs and giggled wildly when friends noticed their hair was of a different color.

Inside, a buffet encouraged the most listless appetite. Even guests who had recently arrived from dinner parties were drawn to a festive looking display of salmon, caviar, chicken, scampi, strawberries and avocados.

The mansion, which presides over 700 acres in Guilford, Surrey, is like a museum. It was built between 1520 and 1530 by Sir Richard Weston, a favorite of King Henry VIII. It has 7 reception rooms, 34 bedrooms, 14 bathrooms (some of the plumbing fixtures are made of gold), and covered tennis and squash courts.

Mr. Getty, who bought the house in 1959 from the late fifth Duke of Sutherland, strung the stereo sound units with his own hands in what has been called “the longest drawing room in England.” This great hall has minstrel galleries at each end and 14 windows of armorial stained glass that date from the 16th century. Its gallery is 152 feet long.

The late Duke, who was Sir George Granville Sutherland Leveson‐Gower, opened Sutton Place to the public in 1948, displaying paintings by Holbein, Romney and Reynolds. He, too, gave large parties there.

Mr. Getty's own collection includes the works of Tintoretto, Titian, Gainsborough, Romney, Rubens, Renoir, Degas and Monet.

There was no problem tonight about gate‐crashers. Guests were reminded to bring along their invitations and there was a strict security check before anyone made it as far as the receiving line. Viscount and Viscountess Vaughan, Francis Sitwell, Sir Thomas and Lady Lund the Earl of Lichfield, Miss Jeannette Constable Maxwell, Sir Bede and Lady Clifford were among those who passed.

Four years ago Sutton Place was invaded by several hundred gate‐crashers during the coming‐out party of Miss Constable Maxwell, whose father is a friend of Mr. Getty. Tonight the 72‐year‐old master of Sutton watched benignly as Britain's young elite amused themselves.'

Sold for £9,000

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)


 

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Last updated: 23rd May 2014

 
 

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