The Male Sale | London

Date: 14th Oct, 2025 14:00

Catalogue: Download PDF catalogue
Lots: 185

We’re delighted to unveil the latest edition of our celebrated Male Sale, featuring 185 exceptional lots that span centuries of menswear - from the revolutionary fervour of 18th-century France to the cutting-edge creativity of recent catwalks.

The sale opens with selections from The Wardrobe of an Elegant Gentleman, whose refined taste is reflected superb Chanel by Karl Lagerfeld items, as worn by male models on the runway. These pieces, tailored for a 36–38in chest, offer a rare opportunity to acquire garments that would equally suit a male or female figure.

Among the contemporary highlights is a striking ensemble from Louis Vuitton’s Autumn-Winter 2023–24 collection, designed by Colm Dillane - also known as KidSuper. As interim creative director before Pharrell Williams, Dillane crafted a patchwork cotton look inspired by archival LV designs and the visual chaos of a teenager’s bedroom. This made-to-order piece, still available via Louis Vuitton, includes trousers that originally retailed for $50,000. Equally compelling is a parka from Raf Simons’ seminal Closer collection (Autumn-Winter 2003–04), featuring hand-painted details by graphic designer Peter Saville. The coat incorporates Saville’s iconic artwork for New Order’s Power, Corruption & Lies album, forming a deeply personal homage to Simons’ early creative influences and his interdisciplinary approach to fashion.

The sale also includes runway-documented masterpieces from Alexander McQueen, notably from his Dante (AW 1996–97) and Joan (AW 1998–99) collections. These garments exemplify the dark creativity and unparalleled tailoring of one of the greatest designers of the contemporary era.

Vivienne Westwood and Malcolm McLaren’s collaborative legacy is richly represented, from early Let it Rock and Seditionaries pieces to landmark ensembles from the 1980s: Pirates, Savage, Nostalgia of Mud, Punkature, Witches, and Hypnos. These works chart Britain’s cultural evolution from Teddy Boys to Punk and New Romanticism, offering collectors a vivid narrative of subcultural style and in many cases, a rare opportunity to acquire complete looks as seen on the runway.

Further highlights include surrealist designs by Richard James. His ‘Rose’ jackets drew inspiration from Cecil Beaton’s personal style, and the romantic design of Beaton’s own 18th-century and surrealist style fancy dress jacket (held in the V&A, accession no. T.47-1997). Beaton wore the jacket to attend a ‘fête champêtre’ he hosted at his country house, Ashcombe, in 1937. He was famously photographed by Gordon Anthony wearing it, gazing into a flower-framed mirror with a rabbit mask on the back of his head.

The expressive spirit of the 1960s is captured in a Cockell & Johnson blazer, screen-printed with pink-heeled legs by Jane Wentworth and Susan Saunders for O.K. Textiles, and a whimsical Dandie Fashions blazer featuring cartoon animals in sporting poses. Dandie Fashions, a beacon of Swinging London, famously dressed The Rolling Stones, The Who, and The Beatles - who acquired the shop after only 15 months in business and transformed it into Apple Boutique, making this lot a particularly rare piece of cultural history.

Among the sale’s most distinguished offerings is a rare silk achkan, custom-made circa 1934 for Maharaja Kameshwar Singh Bahadur. A prominent ruler from the storied lineage of zamindars and sovereigns of Mithila and the Darbhanga district in Bihar, the Maharaja reigned from 1929 until Indian independence in 1947. During this period, his expansive business ventures elevated him to become the third wealthiest man in India. The achkan itself is a testament to the opulence of pre-independence Indian aristocracy; crafted from exceptional Art Deco silk and exemplifying a luxurious fusion of Western textile innovation with Indian sartorial tradition.

The sale also features a remarkable selection of historical menswear, including finely woven and embroidered tailcoats and waistcoats from the 18th and 19th centuries. Of particular note is a rare Incroyables coat dating to the French Revolution, circa 1795. Rendered in a bold bottle-green hue and adorned with exaggerated lapels, the garment defies the austerity of post-revolutionary fashion. It stands as a symbol of sartorial rebellion; an emblem of the flamboyant subculture that challenged political and aesthetic norms, and helped usher in a new era of expressive dress.

This sale is not merely a showcase of menswear; it is a curated archive of style, subversion, and craftsmanship. We invite you to explore the full catalogue and discover pieces that speak to fashion’s enduring dialogue between past and present.

For more information on how to bid, please click here. Live bidding is possible via our website on sale day. In order to bid online, please ensure you have created an account with us and that your account is enabled for live bidding - new clients will need to email us a form of photo ID, proof of address and paid invoices from other auction houses where appropriate. Once you have created an account and have been approved to bid, please click the purple 'Pre-register for live bidding' button which will appear on the online catalogue. You then need to accept the terms and conditions to proceed. On the day of the sale, a button marked 'Bid live' will appear on the website and clicking this will allow you to access the live bidding platform. Please note that there is an additional 1.5% charge plus VAT for any lots won via our online bidding platform. Please also note that online bidding is automatically capped at £6,000 in total - if you envisage that you will exceed this amount, please contact us directly so we can remove the bidding cap - we may ask for further information from you before doing this.

Clients who prefer to bid via Invaluable still have this option and can access the catalogue here. Please note the charge for bidding online via the Invaluable platform is 3% plus VAT. We strongly advise that you register to bid in advance of the auction and not the day of, as we cannot guarantee approval once the auction has begun. Clients who prefer to bid via Drouot still have this option and can access the catalogue here. Please note the charge for bidding online via the Drouot platform is 1.5% plus VAT. We strongly advise that you register to bid in advance of the auction and not the day of, as we cannot guarantee approval once the auction has begun.

View Results

Lot 97 - A Jean Paul Gaultier men's studded black leather jacket, ‘Les Rock Stars’ collection, Autumn-Winter 1987-88

Sold for £780

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 98 - A Jean Paul Gaultier men's black wool gabardine jumpsuit, ‘Les Rock Stars’ collection, Autumn-Winter 1987-88

Sold for £715

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 99 - A Jean Paul Gaultier men's black wool and faux-fur blazer, ‘Les Rock Stars’ collection, Autumn-Winter 1987-88

Sold for £286

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 100 - Two Jean Paul Gaultier men's jackets, 1987-89

Sold for £416

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 101 - A Jean Paul Gaultier men's black leather and faux-fur jacket, circa 1988

Sold for £572

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 102 - A rare Jean Paul Gaultier men's beaded pinstripe jacket, ‘La Concierge Est Dans L'Escalier/The Modern Retros’ collection, Spring-Summer 1988

Sold for £3,640

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 103 - A Jean Paul Gaultier suit and frock coat, ‘Robin des bois’ collection, Autumn-Winter 1988-99

Sold for £1,235

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 104 - A Jean Paul Gaultier men's black leather and felt waistcoat, circa 1989

Sold for £286

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 105 - A Jean Paul Gaultier men's black wool pilot cloth 'naval officer' jacket, circa 1990

Sold for £975

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 106 - A Jean Paul Gaultier men's grey wool suit ensemble and shoes, circa 1990

Sold for £286

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 107 - A Jean Paul Gaultier denim ensemble, ‘Les Classiques Gaultier Revistiés/Les Andro Jeans’ collection, Spring-Summer 1993

Sold for £780

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 108 - A pair of Jean Paul Gaultier men's denim trousers, ‘Les Andro-jean's’ collection, Spring-Summer 1993

Sold for £975

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 108A - A Jean Paul Gaultier printed nylon-blend shirt, ‘Les Tatouages/La Brute et le Raffiné' collection, Spring-Summer 1994

Sold for £520

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 109 - A pair of Jean Paul Gaultier blue cotton sarong-trousers, ‘Les Tatouages/La Brute et le Raffiné’ commercial collection, Spring-Summer 1994

Sold for £364

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 110 - A Jean Paul Gaultier denim kilt, ‘Les Tatouages/La Brute et le Raffiné’ collection, Spring-Summer 1994

Sold for £520

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 111 - Two Jean Paul Gaultier printed tops, circa 1994

Sold for £338

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 112 - A Jean Paul Gaultier faux leather ensemble, circa 1994

Sold for £234

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 113 - A Jean Paul Gaultier men's grey pinstriped wool jacket, 'Le Grand Voyage/Tarbullboud’deville' collection, Autumn-Winter 1994-95

Sold for £1,170

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 114 - A Jean Paul Gaultier printed cotton ensemble, ‘Fin de Siècle/Latino Lover des années 1940’ commercial collection, Spring-Summer 1995

Sold for £845

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 115 - A Jean Paul Gaultier skull and crossbones damask satin ensemble, 'Mad Max/Riders and Horsemen of Modern Times' collection, Autumn-Winter 1995-96

Sold for £845

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 116 - A Jean Paul Gaultier men's black and red jacquard woven blazer, ‘Like a Prayer’ collection, Autumn-Winter 1998-99

Sold for £650

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 117 - A Jean Paul Gaultier white rabbit fur scarf, 'Dandy-Motard-Glam' collection, Autumn-Winter 1999-2000

Sold for £1,690

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 118 - A Jean Paul Gaultier men's brown gabardine safari ensemble, circa 2004

Sold for £416

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 118A - A group of Kansai Yamamoto separates, circa 1982

Sold for £780

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 119 - An early pair of Yohji Yamamoto men's navy wool trousers, probably Autumn-Winter 1984-85

Sold for £221

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 120 - A Yohji Yamamoto men's navy wool double-breasted blazer, circa 1985

Sold for £260

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 121 - A Comme des Garçons black satin staff coat, Spring-Summer 1986

Sold for £845

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 122 - An Issey Miyake men's grey cotton jumpsuit, 1986

Sold for £546

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 123 - An Arrston Volaju by Kohshin Satoh men's wool origami jacket, 1980s

Sold for £286

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 124 - An Issey Miyake men's navy cotton-blend convertible waistcoat/bag, 1988

Sold for £468

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 125 - A group of Yohji Yamamoto men's separates, mostly 1990s

Sold for £286

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 126 - A Matsuda men's black voided velvet blazer, Autumn-Winter 1991-92

Sold for £234

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 127 - A group of Issey Miyake by Naoki Takizawa men's striped suits and shirts, Spring-Summer 2006

Sold for £416

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 128 - A Comme des Garçons men's Rolling Stones print cotton-blend gabardine suit, Spring-Summer 2006

Sold for £650

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 129 - A group of Issey Miyake men's suits and separates, mostly 2000s

Sold for £468

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 130 - A group of Issey Miyake men's suits and separates, mostly 2000s

Sold for £650

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 131 - A group of Issey Miyake men's suits and separates, mostly 2000s

Sold for £546

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 132 - A group of Issey Miyake men's suits and separates, mostly 2000s

Sold for £546

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 133 - A group of Issey Miyake men's suits and separates, mostly 2000s

Sold for £468

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 134 - Three Issey Miyake men's grey cotton suits, probably 2000s

Sold for £234

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 135 - A group of Issey Miyake men's suits and separates 2000s-2010s

Sold for £364

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 136 - A Comme des Garçons men's grey wool suit, Spring-Summer 2013

Sold for £780

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 137 - An Issey Miyake Homme Plissé navy pleated polyester suit, circa 2017

Sold for £234

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 138 - A Maison Martin Margiela men's black cotton gabardine coat, Spring-Summer 2007

Sold for £390

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 139 - A pair of Maison Martin Margiela artisanal men's painted denim jeans, probably Spring-Summer 1999

Sold for £520

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 140 - A group of Armand Basi men's blazers and t-shirts, circa 1991

Sold for £195

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 141 - An Armand Basi men's suit ensemble, 'Kingsize' collection, Spring-Summer 1991

Sold for £195

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 142 - A Calugi e Giannelli men's Batakari-inspired black cotton jacket, 1990s

Sold for £208

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 144 - A John Richmond men's grey and white printed denim ensemble, 1990s

Sold for £208

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 145 - A Richard James men's embroidered sky-blue silk-blend jacket, 'Cecil Beaton' collection, Spring-Summer 1990

Sold for £910

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 146 - A Richard James men's embroidered yellow silk-blend jacket, 'Cecil Beaton' collection, Spring-Summer 1990

Sold for £910

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 147 - Two Richard James men's intarsia knitted merino wool sweaters, circa 1990

Unsold

Lot 148 - A group of mostly Georgio Armani menswear, late 1980s-2000s

Sold for £130

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 149 - A Marithé + François Girbaud men's black leather coat, 1980s

Sold for £390

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 150 - An English Eccentrics hand-embroidered grey cotton-blend jacket, Autumn-Winter 1987-88

Unsold

Lot 151 - A Kahniverous men's red acetate jacket, early 1980s

Sold for £234

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 152 - A Claude Montana men's purple calfskin jacket, 1980s

Sold for £845

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 153 - Two Lloyd Johnson men's suits, mid-1980s

Sold for £338

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 154 - A Bill Blass men's brown beaver fur jacket, 1980s

Sold for £546

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 155 - An unusual pair of Christian Dior men's braces, probably 1970s

Sold for £130

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 156 - An Hermès men's yellow cotton raincoat, 1970s

Sold for £416

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 157 - A Biba men's futuristic brown wool suit, circa 1974

Sold for £520

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 158 - A rare Cockell & Johnson men's printed blazer, 1973

Sold for £1,040

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 159 - A rare Dandie Fashions men's printed cotton blazer, 1966-68

Sold for £715

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 160 - A highland ensemble, 1950s-60s

Sold for £286

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 161 - A fine Ranken and Co. silk achkan made for the Maharaja Kameshwar Singh Bahadur, circa 1934

Sold for £3,900

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 162 - An Eton schoolboy's uniform, 1930s

Sold for £520

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 163 - A printed cotton clown costume, 1920s

Sold for £286

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 164 - A group of men's Albanian Ottoman garments, early 20th century

Sold for £910

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 165 - A Meyer & Mortimer complete navy velvet court livery, 1928

Sold for £546

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 166 - A Sandon & Co Ltd navy velvet court livery, 1929

Sold for £416

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 167 - A group of menswear 1900-1930s

Sold for £208

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 168 - Two County Deputy Lieutenant coatees, late 19th century

Sold for £1,105

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 169 - A group of gentlemen's accessories, late 19th century

Sold for £286

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 170 - Two men's 18th century style fancy dress outfits, late 19th century

Sold for £546

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 172 - An interesting group of antique menswear, 18th-19th century

Sold for £546

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 173 - A group of embroidered smoking and Argyll caps, late 1870s-1880s

Sold for £390

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 174 - A gentleman's wool ensemble, 1840s

Sold for £2,340

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 175 - An unusual gentleman's brocaded green silk waistcoat, circa 1810

Sold for £390

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 176 - A gentleman's linen shirt, circa 1800

Sold for £975

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 177 - Two embroidered satin waistcoats, 1790-1800

Sold for £715

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 178 - A rare 'Incroyables' coat circa 1795

Sold for £8,450

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 179 - A voided velvet coat and a bicorne, 1780-1810s

Sold for £845

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 180 - Two embroidered waistcoats, 1770, 1850

Sold for £598

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 181 - An embroidered changeant silk coat and breeches, circa 1785

Sold for £1,690

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 182 - An embroidered green silk coat and waistcoat, 1780s

Sold for £975

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 183 - A gentleman's embroidered ivory silk waistcoat, circa 1775

Sold for £234

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 184 - A pale grey silk tailcoat, probably French, 1770s

Sold for £1,430

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 185 - A Gaston Courtois fancy dress outfit made from 1730s brocaded silk, 1880s-90s

Sold for £416

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)