Vintage Fashion, Antique Costume & Textiles

Vintage Fashion, Antique Costume & Textiles | London

Lot: 150 to 400 - 25th Mar, 2025 9:30
Lot: 401 to 691 - 25th Mar, 2025 14:00

Lots: 543

Only three months into the year and we’re back with our fifth auction of 2025! This incredibly varied auction features over 540 lots of fabulous vintage fashion. As always, we are kicking off the sale in style with a fantastic selection of Chanel including classic ready-to-wear pieces by Karl Lagerfeld and Philippe Guibourge, as well as haute couture offerings. Great British designers are well represented with names such as Vivienne Westwood, John Galliano, Alexander McQueen as well as a selection of rare designs by John Flett.

Lots 184 to 203 of the auction feature a selection of statement gowns by the designer Michael Halpern, mainly dating from 2020 to 2023. Fantastically sculptural and lavishly embellished, these dresses are wonderful examples of the ‘unabashed glamour’ and demi couture technique Halpern’s designs are known for. Another contemporary cult designer represented in this auction is Carol Christian Poell. The reclusive avant-garde Austrian has never adhered to typical fashion seasons and operates on a limited release basis. Lots 204-218 feature a collection of rare and important leather jackets, boots, and suits that all embody Poell’s penchant for construction and unusual materials. These extremely collectable pieces are all fine examples of Poell’s alternative design sensibility. This auction features a wide selection of Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche pieces from the 1970s 1980s. Many of the fabulous pieces from Yves Saint Laurent in this auction are well documented and can be seen photographed on the catwalk. Other iconic designers of the era featured include Alaïa, Gianni Versace, Thierry Mugler, Zandra Rhodes, and Ossie Clark.

We are thrilled to be offering a selection of garments from the personal collection of Dame Mary Quant, who passed away in 2023. Quant had a ground-breaking career and is often credited as being the inventor of the mini skirt. Her designs are known for being emblematic of British ‘Mod’ style and she was the focus of a retrospective exhibition at the Victoria & Albert Museum in 2019-20. Lots 544 to 579 feature fantastic examples of Mary Quant’s most iconic designs of the 1960s and 1970s, such as mini-dresses, hot pants, pinafores and coats, most of which were worn by Quant herself. As well as designs from her eponymous brand we also have a selection from Quant’s wardrobe by a variety of different designers from Chanel to Comme des Garçons!

Towards the end of the auction, we have a lovely selection of 19th-century dresses and accessories, including unusual and interesting corsets and other examples of historical undergarments. We also have some fabulous silk gowns: two particularly stunning examples are lot 672, a green figured silk brocade evening gown, circa 1845, and lot 666, a sapphire-blue taffeta gown, late 1860s - early 1870s. If you missed your chance in February to participate in our historical Empire of Fashion auction, fret not: we have a further selection of pieces from the renowned Baretto Lancaster collection of Napoleonic & Regency Dress on offer in this auction, including a lovely roller-printed day dress, a fabulous pink spencer, and a lavishly embroidered gentleman’s coat.

For more information on how to bid, please click here. Live bidding is now possible via our website on sale day. In order to bid online, please ensure you have created an account with us and that your account is enabled for live bidding - new clients will need to email us a form of photo ID, proof of address and paid invoices from other auction houses where appropriate. Once you have created an account and have been approved to bid, please click the purple 'Pre-register for live bidding' button which will appear on the online catalogue. You then need to accept the terms and conditions to proceed. On the day of the sale, a button marked 'Bid live' will appear on the website and clicking this will allow you to access the live bidding platform. Please note that there is an additional 1.5% charge plus VAT for any lots won via our online bidding platform. Please also note that online bidding is automatically capped at £6,000 in total - if you envisage that you will exceed this amount, please contact us directly so we can remove the bidding cap - we may ask for further information from you before doing this.

Clients who prefer to bid via Invaluable still have this option and can access the catalogue here. Please note the charge for bidding online via the Invaluable platform is 3% plus VAT. Please note Invaluable's new dynamic pricing system which may affect your live bidding charges on your invoice after the auction, for more information please click here. We strongly advise that you register to bid in advance of the auction and not the day of, as we cannot guarantee approval once the auction has begun.

Clients who prefer to bid via Drouot still have this option and can access the catalogue here. Please note the charge for bidding online via the Invaluable and Drouot platforms are 3% plus VAT. We strongly advise that you register to bid in advance of the auction and not the day of, as we cannot guarantee approval once the auction has begun.

View Results

Lot 247 - A John Galliano black crêpe georgette dress, commercial collection 2005

Sold for £572

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 248 - A Dries Van Noten embroidered wool coat, Autumn-Winter 2004-05

Sold for £390

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 249 - A Christian Dior by John Galliano trotter weave nylon bikini, circa 2004

Sold for £450

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 250 - An Alexander McQueen black wool suit, commercial collection 2004

Sold for £338

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 251 - Two Jean Paul Gaultier dresses, circa 2004

Sold for £364

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 252 - A Christian Dior by John Galliano black lambskin bondage jacket, commercial collection 2003

Sold for £750

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 253 - A Christian Dior by John Galliano printed and perforated cotton drill suit, pre-collection 2003

Sold for £494

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 254 - A Roisin Dubh screen printed denim coat, 2003

Sold for £520

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 255 - An Alexander McQueen silk brocade coat, 'Irere' collection, Spring-Summer 2003

Sold for £1,040

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 256 - A Valentino Garavani gold leather belt, Autumn-Winter 2002-03

Unsold

Lot 257 - A Jean Paul Gaultier green rayon-silk blend coat, ‘The Christo Effect’ collection, Autumn-Winter 2002-03

Sold for £650

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 258 - A Jean Paul Gaultier black polyamide jersey skirt/dress, circa 2002

Sold for £390

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Withdrawn

Lot 260 - A Christian Dior by John Galliano printed stretch polyamide body, 'Street Chic' collection, Spring-Summer 2002

Sold for £312

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 261 - An Yves Saint Laurent by Tom Ford black wool corset ensemble, circa 2002

Sold for £494

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 262 - A group of Gucci by Tom Ford separates, circa 2002

Sold for £312

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 263 - A John Galliano brown wool ensemble, commercial collection 2002

Unsold

Lot 264 - A John Galliano printed silk chiffon dress, pre-collection 2002

Sold for £364

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 265 - A Jean-Louis Scherrer haute couture by Stéphane Rolland layered silk sheath, showpiece, Spring-Summer 2001

Sold for £1,170

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 266 - A Jean-Louis Scherrer by Stéphane Rolland black silk jersey evening gown, probably, Autumn-Winter 2000-01

Sold for £1,950

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 267 - A Thierry Mugler wool-blend ensemble 'Les Solarisées' collection, Spring-Summer 2001

Sold for £1,040

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 268 - A John Galliano pinstriped grey wool suit, probably 'Welcome to Our Playground' collection, Autumn-Winter 2000-01

Sold for £494

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 269 - A John Galliano newspaper print stretch jersey dress, 2000s

Sold for £910

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 270 - Two Roberto Cavalli printed jersey dresses, 2000s

Sold for £390

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 271 - A Moschino black and grey tweed wool suit, 2000s

Sold for £195

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 272 - A group of Alexander McQueen separates, circa 2000

Sold for £598

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 273 - A group of Alexander McQueen separates, 2000s

Sold for £845

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 274 - A Gucci by Tom Ford printed viscose jersey dress, Spring-Summer 2000

Sold for £494

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 275 - A Dolce and Gabbana beige cotton and gold lurex ensemble, 2000s

Sold for £468

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 276 - An Azzedine Alaïa black cotton cocktail dress, probably 2000s

Sold for £546

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 277 - A Comme des Garçons cotton and velvet dress, 2017

Sold for £598

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 278 - Two pairs of Comme des Garçons shoes, 2010s

Sold for £195

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 279 - A Comme des Garçons black polyester dress, 2008

Sold for £494

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 280 - A Junya Watanabe/Comme des Garçons khaki cotton dress, Spring-Summer 2007

Sold for £624

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 281 - A group of Issey Miyake pleated polyester garments, 2000s-2010s

Sold for £325

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 282 - A group of Issey Miyake pleated polyester garments, 2000s-2010s

Sold for £442

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 283 - A Yohji Yamamoto black cotton-duck coat, 2000s

Sold for £780

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 284 - A group of Comme des Garçons separates, 1990s-2000s

Sold for £845

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 285 - A Junya Watanabe/Comme des Garçon pink mohair sweater-dress, Autumn-Winter 2004-05

Sold for £364

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 286 - A Yohji Yamamoto wool and leather jacket, Autumn-Winter 2002-03

Sold for £247

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 287 - A Comme des Garçons striped viscose dress, 1990s

Sold for £715

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 288 - An Issey Miyake brown pleated polyester coat, Spring-Summer 1995

Sold for £2,080

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 289 - An Issey Miyake black and white striped cotton skirt, Spring Summer 1991

Sold for £260

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 290 - An Issey Miyake grey and black pleated polyester dress, Autumn-Winter 1990-91

Sold for £520

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 291 - An Issey Miyake black wool tent dress, circa 1988

Sold for £598

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 292 - An Issey Miyake printed silk gauze summer ensemble, Spring-Summer, 1986

Sold for £312

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 293 - An Issey Miyake unisex reversible quilted cotton coat, Autumn-Winter 1985-86

Sold for £650

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 294 - A group of Japanese separates, 1980s

Sold for £1,105

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 295 - A Yohji Yamamoto yellow acetate coat, 1980s

Sold for £1,040

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 296 - A Dolce and Gabbana black Mongolian lamb skirt, Autumn-Winter 1999-2000

Sold for £845

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 297 - A Dolce & Gabbana tartan wool ensemble, late 1990s

Sold for £221

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 298 - Four Gucci by Tom Ford dresses, late 1990s-early 2000s

Sold for £494

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 299 - A John Galliano burgundy wool crêpe suit, 'Maori' collection, Autumn-Winter 1999-2000

Sold for £494

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 300 - A Christian Dior by John Galliano brown bouclé mohair-blend swing coat, commercial collection 1999

Sold for £546

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 301 - A John Galliano deep magenta wool crêpe suit, 'Cabaret' collection, Autumn-Winter 1998-99

Sold for £260

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 302 - A Givenchy by Alexander McQueen wool and lurex blazer, 'Blade Runner' collection, Autumn-Winter 1998-99

Sold for £494

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 303 - A Givenchy by Alexander McQueen blue and white pinstripe wool jumpsuit, commercial collection 1998

Sold for £1,560

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 304 - A Christian Dior by John Galliano seafoam-green viscose-blend suit, 'In a Boudoir Mood' collection, Spring-Summer 1998

Sold for £364

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 305 - A Versace printed silk dress, Spring-Summer 1998

Sold for £260

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 306 - A Dolce and Gabbana black wool cassock, Autumn-Winter 1997-98

Sold for £598

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 307 - A Givenchy by Alexander McQueen black crêpe and leopard lace cocktail dress, Autumn-Winter 1997-98

Sold for £845

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 308 - An Alexander McQueen embroidered black cotton suit, 'Untitled/Golden Shower' collection, Spring-Summer 1998

Sold for £715

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 309 - A Balmain by Oscar de la Renta haute couture dark green velvet evening gown, Autumn-Winter 1996-97

Sold for £715

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 310 - A Jean Paul Gaultier black rayon blend dress, late 1990s

Sold for £390

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 311 - A Jean Paul Gaultier printed jersey dress, 'Cyberbaba' collection, Spring-Summer 1996

Sold for £416

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 312 - A Jean Paul Gaultier printed jersey dress, 'Cyberbaba' collection, Spring-Summer 1996

Sold for £442

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 313 - A Jean Paul Gaultier sarong and backpack, 'Cyberbaba' collection Spring-Summer 1996

Sold for £416

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 314 - A Jean Paul Gaultier denim ensemble, mid 1990s

Sold for £364

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 315 - A John Galliano slate grey viscose blouse, circa 1995

Sold for £442

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 316 - A Gianni Versace stretch jersey dress, circa 1995

Unsold

Withdrawn

Lot 318 - Two Gianni Versace dresses, circa 1994

Sold for £260

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 319 - A Vivienne Westwood hand-painted staff t-shirt and show invitation, 'Erotic Zones' collection, Spring-Summer 1995

Sold for £260

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 320 - A Vivienne Westwood staff t-shirt and show invitation, 'On Liberty' collection, Autumn-Winter 1994-95

Sold for £182

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 321 - A Maison Martin Margiela artisanal black rayon blouse, Autumn-Winter 1993-94

Sold for £468

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 322 - A Maison Martin Margiela artisanal printed blouse, Autumn-Winter 1993-94

Sold for £598

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 323 - A Gianni Versace black viscose jumpsuit, Spring-Summer 1993

Sold for £520

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 324 - A Jean Paul Gaultier black polyamide dress, 'She Wolf' collection, Spring-Summer 1993

Sold for £910

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 325 - Four Jean Paul Gaultier dresses 1990s-2000s

Sold for £520

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 326 - Two Jean Paul Gaultier suits, early 1990s

Sold for £390

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 327 - A Vivienne Westwood printed velvet ensemble 'Grand Hotel' collection, Spring-Summer 1993

Sold for £975

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 328 - A Vivienne Westwood autographed Swatch watch, 1993

Sold for £234

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 329 - A Vivienne Westwood cotton hair-print hat, 'Salon' collection, Spring-Summer 1992

Sold for £520

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 330 - A Vivienne Westwood 'Marlene' print cotton jersey t-shirt, 'Always on Camera' collection, Autumn-Winter 1992-93

Sold for £416

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 331 - Two Vivienne Westwood T-shirts, 1990s

Sold for £416

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 332 - A group of Vivienne Westwood hand-annotated runway running orders and ephemera, 1990s

Sold for £520

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 333 - A large group of Vivienne Westwood show invitations and ephemera, 1990s

Sold for £325

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 334 - A Vivienne Westwood Boucher-print silk and mesh corset, modern re-edition of 'Portrait' collection Autumn-Winter 1990-91

Sold for £2,340

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 335 - A John Richmond corset and skirt ensemble, 1990s

Sold for £572

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 336 - A Rifat Ozbek embroidered 'quill' jacket and dress, Spring-Summer, 1992

Sold for £247

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 337 - A Gianfranco Ferre embroidered gold leather jacket, Spring-Summer 1992

Sold for £780

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 338 - A Versace couture beaded seafoam silk chiffon evening gown, probably 1990s

Sold for £442

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 339 - A group of Gianni Versace separates, early 1990s

Sold for £546

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 340 - A Gianni Versace couture studded baby pink wool coat, Autumn-Winter 1991-92

Sold for £1,235

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 341 - A Gianni Versace black wool crêpe dress, Autumn-Winter 1991-92

Sold for £975

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 342 - A Gianni Versace dress and jacket, Autumn-Winter 1991-92

Sold for £364

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)